How I Fix A Rusty Chainsaw Chain

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Red's procedure works. You can reduce the cost a little by mixing the Evaporust 50:50 with vinegar. After the overnight soak, I then soak in diesel fuel a few hours. I saved about 30 chains for customers last year that way. They added in and extra buck a loop to my sharpening charge for the restoration. No complaints.
 
Some chains are worth saving. Some are not. But, I hope that those in the latter category at least get tossed in the recycling bin!

Light surface rust comes off pretty easy; my 'go-to' was citric acid, which is a lot cheaper than EvapoRust type products. I found that a lot of old, 'rusted' chains were really bound up because the grease around the rivet bearings was dried up; cleaning in some degreaser, or target application of 3-in-One oil loosened up a number of those older loops.

Phiblert
 
I use a propane torch if some of the links are stuck at the customers chains, all rusty wont make it to my shop.
 
Don't think I have ever let them get that rusty but they do get kinked and stuck sometimes so I just lay them in a metal parts tray and squirt them with BPblaster with teflon, makes them like new again.
 
I disagree. I soak overnight in evaporust then soak in oil and drip dry, sharpen...they work great every time, no kinks. Ill resurrect a few dozen a year that come in the shop.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

I say "it's junk, not worth my time".

Lot of loggers where I grew up don't bother to sharpen chains. Once it's done, it's tossed.
Cheaper to put a new one than spend the time sharpening.
 
I say "it's junk, not worth my time".

Lot of loggers where I grew up don't bother to sharpen chains. Once it's done, it's tossed.
Cheaper to put a new one than spend the time sharpening.
That's just lazy thinking. Had a ground crew locally that was ordering chains by The box from me for a few months...then i got them to bring me their old ones..all just dull, ran them over the grinder, some 60 loops, all 3/8, 20" to 42". 60 loops x 4 to 8 dollars, it took me a couple hours but well worth it. They now have their chains sharpened a few times before they replace...they said they had not bothered prior because the stihl dealer wanted $10 per chain and they came back burnt. For like 400 bucks for a few hours..its worth it and its saving them alot of money.

I got a couple old Homelite saws a few months ago, chains rusted to the bars which were also rusted. I filled up a scabbard with evapo rust and left the bars in for a day then soaked the chains the same way. They both cut great...0 rust.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
When has that ever focused or constrained the conversation in one of these threads?

Philbert

Every time I see Philbert post something like , "That is so interesting that it deserves a thread of its own, wouldn't it be nice if you started one instead of discussing it in this unrelated thread?" I crack up a little because I know that he knows that it's a doomed effort, but he tries anyway. :laugh:
 
I’m not as thorough as Philbert but I do get any remotely salvageable chain working again.

I get rusty links moving with a soak in oil then work by hand. If they won’t free by hand, I’ll put it in the vise and tap gently with a small hammer. Then another quick soak in oil. After that I’ll put the chain on an old/worn bar and run it a little to get everything freed up. Then sharpen/set depth gauges and it is into the rotation.

I don’t get into rust removal/neutralization as cutting will buff the rust off. (I know @Philbert loves that one.). I can imagine I would include this step if I was being paid by someone else to return their chains.

Even if you get one where the plating has come off, you can use it for stumping or dirty work.
 
That's just lazy thinking. Had a ground crew locally that was ordering chains by The box from me for a few months...then i got them to bring me their old ones..all just dull, ran them over the grinder, some 60 loops, all 3/8, 20" to 42". 60 loops x 4 to 8 dollars, it took me a couple hours but well worth it. They now have their chains sharpened a few times before they replace...they said they had not bothered prior because the stihl dealer wanted $10 per chain and they came back burnt. For like 400 bucks for a few hours..its worth it and its saving them alot of money.

I got a couple old Homelite saws a few months ago, chains rusted to the bars which were also rusted. I filled up a scabbard with evapo rust and left the bars in for a day then soaked the chains the same way. They both cut great...0 rust.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Dunno, just what they do.

Must make sense to them. Maybe even liability of running a chain too long?
I've seen photos of buncher and harvester operators killed or severely injured from chain shot.

Also most saw shops aren't touching. .404" or .75" chain.

As far as rusted junk chains... shop rate is $90/hr...
 
If I was running a business that went through chains I'd certainly be guided by new chain prices versus labor rates.

But doing my own chains... I'd gladly spend a couple hours fixing up a trashed $10 loop. The calculus isn't "Oh, this is only $5 an hour", it's "I made this old broken thing work well again". There's satisfaction in that (and it might cut better than the new chain anyway!).
 

Latest posts

Back
Top