660 service workshop manual

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ljnoble

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Hey all I'm new here, have a 660 clone iv assembled and put a big bore kit in (yes from the usual suspects) and im having problems with getting it started wondering if anyone can help me out with a workshop manual ?
Thanks:)

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What were your base settings for the carb screws H & L?
If you do some searching around you will read all sorts of "interesting" numbers for the amount of turns out on those knockoff carbs.
What happens if you prime the carb down the throat with some mixed fuel? Will it fire and run a second or two? Or will it not fire at all?
 
What were your base settings for the carb screws H & L?
If you do some searching around you will read all sorts of "interesting" numbers for the amount of turns out on those knockoff carbs.
What happens if you prime the carb down the throat with some mixed fuel? Will it fire and run a second or two? Or will it not fire at all?
@Bob Hedgecutter
Carb h and l both set to 1 and 1/8 turn.
Carb deffinitly has fuel seams like it flooding very quickly, I know iv got spark and coil and plugs working because they start in my stock genuine 660. Wonder if the timing is wrong because I can't even get a pop out of it.


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@Bob Hedgecutter
Carb h and l both set to 1 and 1/8 turn.
Carb deffinitly has fuel seams like it flooding very quickly, I know iv got spark and coil and plugs working because they start in my stock genuine 660. Wonder if the timing is wrong because I can't even get a pop out of it.


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I have not buggered around with those knockoff saws, so can't really comment- but have read plenty of times where the standard 1 to 1 1/4 turns out just does not work.
Empty the cylinder and crankcase of fuel if you suspect flooding and swap over your genuine 660 carb to see what it does.
And, if you are using the spark plug that came it the kit it would probably pay to throw that as far away as you can and put a real one in.
You can also pull the Stihl 660 flywheel and line up the north & south magnets to see if the keyway is in the same position as the knockoff one- you could even swap the flywheels over.
 
I have not buggered around with those knockoff saws, so can't really comment- but have read plenty of times where the standard 1 to 1 1/4 turns out just does not work.
Empty the cylinder and crankcase of fuel if you suspect flooding and swap over your genuine 660 carb to see what it does.
And, if you are using the spark plug that came it the kit it would probably pay to throw that as far away as you can and put a real one in.
You can also pull the Stihl 660 flywheel and line up the north & south magnets to see if the keyway is in the same position as the knockoff one- you could even swap the flywheels over.
Yeh mate that was my plan. I'll give it ago after work.

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I have not buggered around with those knockoff saws, so can't really comment- but have read plenty of times where the standard 1 to 1 1/4 turns out just does not work.
Empty the cylinder and crankcase of fuel if you suspect flooding and swap over your genuine 660 carb to see what it does.
And, if you are using the spark plug that came it the kit it would probably pay to throw that as far away as you can and put a real one in.
You can also pull the Stihl 660 flywheel and line up the north & south magnets to see if the keyway is in the same position as the knockoff one- you could even swap the flywheels over.
Yep, good advice
 
FWIW, I have a Frankensaw 660 (not built by me but someone else who used a lot of OEM and non-Chinese parts) and when it arrived (pig-rich) it was set with the H 1.5 turns out and the L was 1.1 or 1.2 turns out. After breaking it in and opening up the muffler, I ended up with the H at about 1.2 turns out for 12.5krpm at WOT. It flutters/burbles nice at WOT and cleans up under load.
 
All fixed thanks for your help guys
Was a vac leak after the carby must have broken the seal after I took the rubber section out, that I used for my vac test.


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