McCulloch Chain Saws

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Picked up a couple more 2 man macs this last weekend, 12-25 and a 7-55. The 7-55 is in fair shape, a little dirty but no damage and complete. The 12-25 is rough though, damage on the top of the tank and on the clutch housing. Starter is also missing as is the little can used for oiling. Not sure about the internals either, could be opening up a big can of worms on that one. The 7-55 will definitely get cleaned up and put on display and will hopefully be running again as well!
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Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 
A couple updates...
Now that my summer work and general busy schedule is winding down, I have decided that it's finally time to reassemble that Super Pro 81 that I lucked out on and got for $30 about a year ago.
Of course, there's just a tiny problem with that...

You see, I got this back when I was still quite new to obtaining and working on oldschool chainsaws. I remember when I got the SP81 that is was in a very questionable condition. The compression was very good, but it had no spark, a good amount of exterior mag rot, and many of the screws and bolts had been replaced with threaded rod and nuts with washers. Because of all that, I got the idea in my mind to simply disassemble the entire thing so that I could find anything that was wrong with it, right down to assessing the condition inside the cylinder.
In hindsight, I probably didn't need to go quite that far, but that's beside the point. My issue now is simple: I can't remember off the top of my head where everything goes. :laugh:
Again a product of my inexperience back then, but I tore the saw down on my old workbench, which also was(and still is) sharing space with a partially disassembled seized Homelite 700D. Parts and pieces were neatly sorted out into trays and bins, but they weren't labeled, and things have a tendency to get mixed together after a year. That's bad enough as-is, but then you have to remember that the saw didn't even come with all of its original fasteners.

What I'm getting at is this: I may be asking some really dumb questions in the near future if I can't figure out from the IPL which screw or bolt is supposed to go where.
Anyway, since the saw is completely torn apart, I want to make sure I rebuild this SP81 the right way, so that it'll hopefully be running strong years from now.
What should I do while I have the cylinder separated? The only thing I had really done back then was clean the piston. I know I should check the ring gap, but what else should I do?
Also, when I go to put it back together, I'll need a tube of some sort of sealant like Yamabond, right?


Second, here's something that is a bit more exciting. I was talking with some people lately, and as it turns out I may have just learned about an old timer in the area who, at least at one point in time, had a barn stuffed with approximately 200ish saws that he got from the old local logging camps and dealers as they closed down or changed brands. Supposedly mostly 60's era McCullochs but with some older and newer stuff mixed in of other brands from around the same time.
I'm trying to work out a way to get in contact with this person and see if he's interested at all in having someone come to look around and buy some stuff, if said saws still even exist.

Here's my question regarding all of that though: If there actually is an untapped treasure trove of old saws that I get to look through, is there anything specific like exceptionally rare models that I should keep an eye out for? I know about stuff like the BP-1 and LeSabre, but are there any others?
This mythical hoard probably doesn't exist, but it's fun to imagine that it does.
 
A couple updates...
Now that my summer work and general busy schedule is winding down, I have decided that it's finally time to reassemble that Super Pro 81 that I lucked out on and got for $30 about a year ago.
Of course, there's just a tiny problem with that...

You see, I got this back when I was still quite new to obtaining and working on oldschool chainsaws. I remember when I got the SP81 that is was in a very questionable condition. The compression was very good, but it had no spark, a good amount of exterior mag rot, and many of the screws and bolts had been replaced with threaded rod and nuts with washers. Because of all that, I got the idea in my mind to simply disassemble the entire thing so that I could find anything that was wrong with it, right down to assessing the condition inside the cylinder.
In hindsight, I probably didn't need to go quite that far, but that's beside the point. My issue now is simple: I can't remember off the top of my head where everything goes. :laugh:
Again a product of my inexperience back then, but I tore the saw down on my old workbench, which also was(and still is) sharing space with a partially disassembled seized Homelite 700D. Parts and pieces were neatly sorted out into trays and bins, but they weren't labeled, and things have a tendency to get mixed together after a year. That's bad enough as-is, but then you have to remember that the saw didn't even come with all of its original fasteners.

What I'm getting at is this: I may be asking some really dumb questions in the near future if I can't figure out from the IPL which screw or bolt is supposed to go where.
Anyway, since the saw is completely torn apart, I want to make sure I rebuild this SP81 the right way, so that it'll hopefully be running strong years from now.
What should I do while I have the cylinder separated? The only thing I had really done back then was clean the piston. I know I should check the ring gap, but what else should I do?
Also, when I go to put it back together, I'll need a tube of some sort of sealant like Yamabond, right?


Second, here's something that is a bit more exciting. I was talking with some people lately, and as it turns out I may have just learned about an old timer in the area who, at least at one point in time, had a barn stuffed with approximately 200ish saws that he got from the old local logging camps and dealers as they closed down or changed brands. Supposedly mostly 60's era McCullochs but with some older and newer stuff mixed in of other brands from around the same time.
I'm trying to work out a way to get in contact with this person and see if he's interested at all in having someone come to look around and buy some stuff, if said saws still even exist.

Here's my question regarding all of that though: If there actually is an untapped treasure trove of old saws that I get to look through, is there anything specific like exceptionally rare models that I should keep an eye out for? I know about stuff like the BP-1 and LeSabre, but are there any others?
This mythical hoard probably doesn't exist, but it's fun to imagine that it does.
G70 good saw to keep an eye out for.
 
Can you lace a rubber band around the throttle and choke linkage?, thats basically what the rubber factory peice is.
I didn't think of that, would be less scratchy than a piece of wire. I don't have any rubber bands though.
I haven't seen what the factory piece looks like.
 
I came up with this to keep the choke locked in for starting my 2-10. It works but I might try to come up with something better.
I came up with this to keep the choke locked in for starting my 2-10. It works but I might try to come up with something better.

View attachment 932712View attachment 932713
Is your 2-10 with the push choke not equipped with the “push and turn” choke button? Push in and 1/8 turn CCW to lock?
I cannot make it out fully in your photo but the detent/slot appears to be there. If not present you could replace it with that version of the button or cut the slot very easily yourself with the button removed.
Just throwing that out there for ya.
cheers
 
Thanks guys, I'll get it apart soon to find out what I'm up against!
Looking at the piston through the exhaust port, the skirt is well scuffed up below the rings, but no deep scratches or mangled like that of my PM700 frankensaw was.

I've been reluctant to post this, but I got carried away with cleaning up that PM700 cylinder, and removed chrome! :omg:
I didn't find the red Scotch-Brite locally (tried the green one, but that did nothing), so went at it with 320 grit sand paper & oil. The cylinder initially had what appeared to be some aluminium transfer under the exhaust port, and another spot and some smears up top; first repost pic below. Well, the ones under the exhaust were probably already bad spots, and I just managed to remove more chrome. The aluminium up top did clear up, but revealed damage under: holes and grooves that were plugged with Al (third pic below).
I'm getting that red Scotch-Brite for the DE80 for sure, and will be more careful.

Before:
exhaust_top.JPG

After:
after_top.jpeg

Area above exhaust, after:
above_exhaust.JPG
 
Is your 2-10 with the push choke not equipped with the “push and turn” choke button? Push in and 1/8 turn CCW to lock?
I cannot make it out fully in your photo but the detent/slot appears to be there. If not present you could replace it with that version of the button or cut the slot very easily yourself with the button removed.
Just throwing that out there for ya.
cheers
Whaaaaaaat? I didn't know about this! :oops:
I thought mine originally came with a primer and it had between swapped for a choke. Both the IPLs I have say it should have a primer.
This is where having an Owner's Manual would help.

Thanks, I''ll have a look later....
 
I've been reluctant to post this...,

All things considered, that's still not too bad. And 320 is usually about right for older chrome if one is careful. I'll use 90 ~ 120 grit on Nikasil cylinders with excessive transfer as a first pass and ease up from there depending on what I find. The Red Scotch-Brite is my final finish or for more delicate situations in general. Just stuff a wad into the cylinder, thread another piece through an eye bolt, chuck it up in a cordless drill and have at it.
 
Gday all, been a while between Macs for me... but i've started mucking around with this 450. Will fire & run on prime, but dies out & not fuel on its own. I haven't had the pleasure of pulling a flatback apart before & am wondering if there is anything I should be wary of? I know parts for these are basically non existant, especially in Australia. Also, can fuel lines & filter on these old girls be replaced with standard items, ie not mac specific? Many thanks!
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I have a 450 as well,I got it back in May.It does run,buy I haven't had it out cutting yet.As for the flat back carbs,there's really nothing special about those carbs at all.I've had a few apart & they're pretty much like the Tilly HL,IMO (everything's big inside).Just keep track of how things come apart.There are a couple fellas here in the U.S.whop make repair kits for them for around $30 US.One guy will ship to Australia if I'm not mistaken.I think the shipping on a kit would be around $15 US.If the diaphragms are not stiff as a board,they can be brought back to life by soaking in brake fluid or wintergreen oil,the latter being the best & most costly too.
 

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