When the OEM piston kits dryup?

[Fatherwheels]

There is a lot to how a saw is stored, my first saw was a 1958 Pioneer600, it is all original and never been apart, it still runs today as it did when new. I have a lot of saws that are for show, not work, they range from 1945 through the 50`s, 60`s, 70`s on up to 1985. They will all run very well, some don`t get started for 15 - 20 years but start up they will. I have done so many carb kits for others that don`t store their saws properly. I buy carb rebuild kits in bulk, sometimes 50 kits or more at a time, there are so many carbs these days and yes they are getting more finicky all the time.

How do you store your saws for short and long term, I almost fill the tank on a saw am
going to use again soon, or let them run dry for long term storage, but that old 041 just
got parked with whatever was in the tank, sometimes an empty tank was why it was stopped,
and it always went again with no fuss.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Todays gasoline is the problem for many if it has ethanol in it but mixed fuel, gasoline with two stroke oil in it is also bad for saws/carbs. Best is to run them dry first and then put just a bit of Pure gas in the tank for short term storage. Way back gasoline wasn`t so harmful to carbs/rubber but the stuff they sell today sure is.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

I was running them dry w/ canned fuel for storage. All saws were fine doing this until my pro mac 55 wouldn't start or run right after a year or so of storage. I put a carb kit in it and it was fine again. I started storing them w/ some canned fuel in them after that. No problems since, so currently I'm not running them dry. A 1/4 tank of Stabil 360 and canned fuel has been treating me well for storage.

 

[Fatherwheels]

I was running them dry w/ canned fuel for storage. All saws were fine doing this until my pro mac 55 wouldn't start or run right after a year or so of storage. I put a carb kit in it and it was fine again. I started storing them w/ some canned fuel in them after that. No problems since, so currently I'm not running them dry. A 1/4 tank of Stabil 360 and canned fuel has been treating me well for storage.

What canned gas are you using.

 

[pioneerguy600]

True Fuel has been good to me and my friends, pull the recoil several times to prime the carb if the saw has been run totally dry of mixed pump gas. For long term storage of my antique saws I fill the magnesium tank saws with ATF and prime the carbs up , it takes a bit of work to get them started again but they only need the fuel tank flushed and a couple of squirt primes to get them running again.

 

[rogue60]

Squirrels hoarding nuts lol
You only need to be born today and live to be 50 to see oil run out.
The reality is they will turn the fuel/gas tap off to us sheep way before that happens.

 

[Huskybill]

For long term storage I’d add seafoam to 38:1 mix run it dry the store it.

 

[dmb2613]

I’m not fond of the new saws of today. Maybe they will improve.

Bill, if you run one of the new saws of any make for a good while , you will leave the old stuff on the shelf

 

[Fatherwheels]

Bill, if you run one of the new saws of any make for a good while , you will leave the old stuff on the shelf

There was plenty of the old stuff way more reliable than most of the new stuff, especially
new Husqvarna stuff, how long do you think the new AT or MT stuff will be about.
I don’t like the throw away society we have become, am buying a tractors 60:years old, still running
perfect, while I see the newer stuff burned out in short time, and so full of rubbish components
theres no point in fixing them.
I guess it depends on where your perspective is, mine is the camp that proved itself.

 

[Franny K]

There was plenty of the old stuff way more reliable than most of the new stuff, especially
new Husqvarna stuff, how long do you think the new AT or MT stuff will be about.
I don’t like the throw away society we have become, am buying a tractors 60:years old, still running
perfect, while I see the newer stuff burned out in short time, and so full of rubbish components
theres no point in fixing them.
I guess it depends on where your perspective is, mine is the camp that proved itself.

It does depend on the perspective. I think the quote you responded to could be interpreted to the anti vibration features both the isolation and positioning of the components. Bill has made posts to the effect he has raised a family of 4 doing firewood, probably without a processor, so it would seem to me the post you responded to makes lots of sense.

As far as the tractor, I don't know about the most modern stuff but the stuff with mechanical diesel fuel system of approx. 15 to 20 years old vs the gasoline stuff prior to three point hitch, wow what a difference, hydrostatic steering, governor response just to mention a few.

 

[Fatherwheels]

It does depend on the perspective. I think the quote you responded to could be interpreted to the anti vibration features both the isolation and positioning of the components. Bill has made posts to the effect he has raised a family of 4 doing firewood, probably without a processor, so it would seem to me the post you responded to makes lots of sense.

As far as the tractor, I don't know about the most modern stuff but the stuff with mechanical diesel fuel system of approx. 15 to 20 years old vs the gasoline stuff prior to three point hitch, wow what a difference, hydrostatic steering, governor response just to mention a few.

I read too many posts about farmers looking at tractors with electronics for everything,
and them broke down while the nicely dressed people who sold them tried to calm them
down, while they had to hire one to put in their crops.
If a lift lever and gearstick are too heavy for you, good luck when life gets tough.
Power steering is a must to cope with the weight on the front wheels, as long
as it’s not electric am happy to use it.
I would buy something like a chainsaw with electronics, but not as my only saw, and
would certainly not buy one as an upgrade, we have springs and rubber dampers
for years, we could even add our own if we cared to, so old saws are still viable.

 

[Huskybill]

I wasn’t rich in the firewood bizz. I passed my dealer going to the wood lot and would stop in a drool over the new saws now I can buy them as used saws, fix them if they need it and enjoy them. A little collection to play with.

 

[rupedoggy]

Fix up your 181 and you will enjoy. A little heavy but good otherwise. Mike

 

[Huskybill]

We went over the 181se it needs a carb kit. The compression is awesome. The saw looks like new not many hours on it. The piston looks new.

I have another 181se and a 288 xp I haven’t addressed yet.

 

[qjetter]

True Fuel has been good to me and my friends, pull the recoil several times to prime the carb if the saw has been run totally dry of mixed pump gas. For long term storage of my antique saws I fill the magnesium tank saws with ATF and prime the carbs up , it takes a bit of work to get them started again but they only need the fuel tank flushed and a couple of squirt primes to get them running again.

Hate to be a tad off topic here, but i must not be hitting the right topic search terms. Have acquired a few older Pioneer saws. Would like to hear them run. Not sure on correct approach to fuel. I can readily get 92? alcohol-free gasoline locally, but im curious about the correct oil and ratio. On an AB for example, Mike's page says 12:1 ratio using SAE 60 or 70 weight oil. Would regular Valvoline race 60 motor be okay for that or is there something different that i should buy? Oil and its ratings and contents have changed quite a bit since the AB was made and i don't want to inadvertently damage it due to ignorance of the correct fuel. Your thoughts on this would be most appreciated.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Any good quality two stroke mix oil designed for air cooled engines is more than good enough for any chainsaw engine no matter when the saw was made. I run Stihl, Dolmar and occasionally Husqvarna branded mix oils at a 40:1 ratio in all my chainsaws including those made from the mid1940`s through the 50`s. The vintage saws were running on crankcase oil back then but todays specifically designed mix oils have advanced significantly.

 

[Huskybill]

My dealer had a ported 288 Xp that he let me break in cutting firewood. I liked it, it’s a tad bigger than a 266. But a step above a normal 288 being ported.

 

[president]

Someone will be happy to get their hands on those, have you advertised them on the site.

No , but I have shipped one to Jerry(one of the site moderators, and 1 to a guy in wyoming
and they liked them

 

[president]

Someone will be happy to get their hands on those, have you advertised them on the site.

will do soon!

 

[thenne1713]

Hate to be a tad off topic here, but i must not be hitting the right topic search terms. Have acquired a few older Pioneer saws. Would like to hear them run. Not sure on correct approach to fuel. I can readily get 92? alcohol-free gasoline locally, but im curious about the correct oil and ratio. On an AB for example, Mike's page says 12:1 ratio using SAE 60 or 70 weight oil. Would regular Valvoline race 60 motor be okay for that or is there something different that i should buy? Oil and its ratings and contents have changed quite a bit since the AB was made and i don't want to inadvertently damage it due to ignorance of the correct fuel. Your thoughts on this would be most appreciated.

(QJetter) OILS, especially synthetics, have IMPROVED SO MUCH in the past 20+ Years that I would NOT be afraid to and WOULD RECOMMEND to run synthetic oil at 50:1, forget the OLD Mix RATIOS AND OIL SPEC. I USE 50:1 ECHO POWER BLEND IN ALL MY EQUIPMENT, INCLUDING OLD THAT originally said 16:1, and ECHO states as I have said above for their old equipment mix, too.