Super jolly

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Even when the stihl chain says 30?? Any reason for that ?

There is no "correct" angle. If you find that the chain binds aggressively into your hardwood and stalls too much? Back off to 25°. Maybe not set your depth gauges quite as deep.

Conversely, if your saw screams but doesn't cut and the chain is sharp but doesn't overheat, give it a bit more depth of cut and a steeper angle on the cutting edge. If milling across the grain, back way off that cutter angle.

Chipper tooth or semi-chisel chain: they stay sharp longer than chisel tooth, but don't cut as fast. Grind at 30°.

Lots of options. Just get well informed, know your chain, and feel free to experiment. I have found over the years that the plate angle really doesn't count for as much as how sharp it is and how much depth there is to the cutters.
 
Just picked up a used super jolly. It’s practically brand new. I’ve never had a grinder and can’t find much info on set up. Didn’t come with manuals. What’s some good settings to start with. And do I need to get different wheels for different chain ? I run 3/8 picco, .325 and 3/8 chains. Any help would be much appreciated !! Thank you
I have the same Chain Grinder that I bought new. After Using many Oregon's over the years it was a learning curve to get used to the adjustments, but I love it.
I use CBN Grinding wheels (1/8 and 3/16) and have never used the ones that came with it. I do around 300 chains a year so a couple hundred bucks for two wheels was well worth it.
I also made an adjustable stand for mine, So folks prefer to stand, some sit, with my stand I can do both. Its made out an old Lolli Column and old umbrella base and scrap steel.
To be correct on the size and gauge of loose chains I use a simple thing called the Pitch-N-Gauge. Its like ten bucks with shipping, but takes the guesswork out of unidentified chains that need to be sharpened. There is a bunch of chain grinding charts on the internet for grinding angles, etc.
But what has been mentioned many times in the past, you don't have to follow exact. For example Green wood VS frozen wood cutting. You can be a little more aggressive on green VS when its frozen solid. Hard wood VS Soft wood.
I ask the customer , if its the occasional home owner cleaning up a few branches or a small downed tree, I use factory angles.
The Guy (or Lady ) that heats with wood and runs the wheels off their saws, I just ask what they are going to be cutting and go from there.
The commercial guys will generally tell you if they want any alterations from factory angles.
Also so far I seem to be the only one that does this .
When you have a chain that's basically shot, down to the skinnies and maybe missing a few teeth. I sharpen them for free.
I tell the customer its a one shot wonder, that pesky root that's in the hole your digging, there's your answer. Use it once and throw it away, don't stick a $40.00 chain in the dirt.. come on folks! (you folks that know chainsaws are exempt from the last statement BTW , lol )
Just before you slap on the nice and sparkling new chain, CLEAN the bar of the dirt and sand that got into it in your mining endeavors. Its a saw not a trencher.
Actually had a guy buy a brand new Stihl 290 and out of the box he trenched a half acre underground invisible dog fence wire. He brought the chain back talking warranty . There wasn't a tooth on it. it looking like a skinny bicycle chain, Needless to say, I don't think so..lol
 

Attachments

  • 20201018_184130.jpg
    20201018_184130.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 7
  • chain grinder stand 3.jpg
    chain grinder stand 3.jpg
    277 KB · Views: 5
Lots of good information on similar grinders (aside from hydraulics) in this thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
I may be in the minority, but like the standard aluminum oxide wheels.

My basic recommendations:

- experiment ('play') with old chains for a while;

- try making small adjustments to each setting and see how that affects the cutter shape;

- mount a chain that you like in the grinder (with power OFF) and try to ’copy’ those angles. Note the grinder settings, then try to reproduce those cutters on another chain;

- intentionally overheat a cutter or two. Then work backwards until you can avoid doing this;

- take lots of small ‘taps’ with the grinding wheel, rather than sustained contact;

- dress the wheel lightly each loop to expose fresh, sharp abrasive;

- experiment and have fun with it!


I will look for any manuals that I have.

Philbert
 
These are similar grinders and similar manuals. Good technical information, but not much on technique for a first time grinder user. Experiment as noted above.

Philbert
 

Attachments

  • Tecomec SuperJolly Hydraulic Chain Grinder.pdf
    5.6 MB · Views: 0
  • Oregon 620-120.pdf
    819.1 KB · Views: 0
Lots of good information on similar grinders (aside from hydraulics) in this thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
I may be in the minority, but like the standard aluminum oxide wheels.

My basic recommendations:

- experiment ('play') with old chains for a while;

- try making small adjustments to each setting and see how that affects the cutter shape;

- mount a chain that you like in the grinder (with power OFF) and try to ’copy’ those angles. Note the grinder settings, then try to reproduce those cutters on another chain;

- intentionally overheat a cutter or two. Then work backwards until you can avoid doing this;

- take lots of small ‘taps’ with the grinding wheel, rather than sustained contact;

- dress the wheel lightly each loop to expose fresh, sharp abrasive;

- experiment and have fun with it!


I will look for any manuals that I have.

Philbert
I need a refresher. The Tecomec green wheels…what is their composition? Seems like they’re similar to molemab or Oregon dark red
 
The Tecomec green wheels…what is their composition?
I don’t know if the composition is different, or just the grit size, or . . . When I tried one the difference did not jump out at me. Tecomec shows several wheels on their website: some are supposed to remove material faster, and some are supposed to leave a smoother finish. These wheels are not all easy to find (unless you want to order a case of 20?).

Philbert
 
I don’t know if the composition is different, or just the grit size, or . . . When I tried one the difference did not jump out at me. Tecomec shows several wheels on their website: some are supposed to remove material faster, and some are supposed to leave a smoother finish. These wheels are not all easy to find (unless you want to order a case of 20?).

Philbert
The green ones came with the Super Jolly grinder. I’ve bought singles from eBay but it’s been a few years. They seem to leave a pretty fine finish. I’ve always been happy with them but I also like to try new things. I do know I’m not a fan of the normal light pink wheels. These green ones remove material much faster and rarely make the teeth hot enough that I can’t hold my finger on them afterward.
 
The green ones came with the Super Jolly grinder. I’ve bought singles from eBay but it’s been a few years. They seem to leave a pretty fine finish. I’ve always been happy with them but I also like to try new things. I do know I’m not a fan of the normal light pink wheels. These green ones remove material much faster and rarely make the teeth hot enough that I can’t hold my finger on them afterward.
I ordered the green ones on Amazon. Should be here today !
 
These are similar grinders and similar manuals. Good technical information, but not much on technique for a first time grinder user. Experiment as noted above.

Philbert
Thank you for sending this. I had said I would and then I had to go out of town unexpectedly. I tried to find this online to send. So again thank you.
 
These are similar grinders and similar manuals. Good technical information, but not much on technique for a first time grinder user. Experiment as noted above.

Philbert
Thank you for sending this. I had said I would and then I had to go out of town unexpectedly. I tried to find this online to send, but I obviously didn’t find it. So again thank you.
 
I am new with my Jolly sharpener and have noticed the pink ones , the only ones I used so far do heat the chisel and can change the color , or burn the metal. I need to take it easy to not burn it cause I think that will change the metal hardness .
 
If you discover that you are heating up the cutters more than you would like, use a wheel dresser to clean up the grime and imbedded steel particles. Restore the right shape to the wheel as well.

Dirty wheels make more friction/heat than clean ones do.

By the way: the pink wheels in my opinion are better than all others, CBN wheels excepted. Even the CBN wheels will cherry the cutters on a chain when they start to wear out, and they benefit a great deal from cleaning too. Do NOT use a wheel dresser, however. That'll ruin your CBN wheel. Use some brake cleaner spray.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top