That's cool, do you happen to have a video of it.
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Yes I do but I can’t upload to YouTube from my phone for some strange reason . I have to download it to my laptop and then upload to YouTubeThat's cool, do you happen to have a video of it.
Maybe she could just shoot it with a 22 or something to get it to ring
Speaking of shooting, anyone looking for some cheap 308, I'm having a hard time holding back.
View attachment 994300
How do you scrounge firewood! 
Junky Oregon safety chain. It cuts.
I think that would be a hoot. I'm not sure my neighbors from Chicago would see the fun in it though!Today's work!
Purposely chairing a 120 foot snag with a couple bore and plunge cuts to remove a plug, make a couple hard dutchman relief cuts, pack hole with tanerite and saw waste, get back a couple hundred yards, squeeze the trigger and you got yourself a Blown Throne!
Try it some time, and you'll see that it's a blast!
Actually maybe you shouldn't try it!
View attachment 994304View attachment 994305View attachment 994307How do you scrounge firewood!
Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
Been hard to keep up with all your replys lol. I most typically use the Humboldt and a conventional face cut. The Dutchman (the way I understand it) I typically shy away from. I'm am not super comfortable allowing part of a hinge to be prematurely broken unless I specifically have to, and wouldn't do this near anything I was worried about crushing.The reason for making your back cut flush with the top cut in a Humboldt face or flush with the bottom cut in a conventional face when cutting saw logs is because it Ieavs a flusher end of a saw log for less triming. To save production time. This is typically only done when droping timber into a good clearing out in front of the intended direction of the fall or "lead" if you will. With no other standing merchantable, non merchantable, defective timber, or snags out in front of the fall. If the area of your lead is completely clear. There is no possiblity of the tree brushing into another standing tree thus possibly causing the falling tree to slide back off the stump twords the Faller. If your timber is falling into or twords other standing. The higher back cut creates a stop. In case of the tree brushing back.
In short back cuts are cut flush with face cuts when leading into big clearings because it's perfectly safe and saves the cutter production time from not having to "trim the butt" like you would if the butt has a safty step. Like I said. When leading into other standing. A safty step should be used. Keep in mind!Often a lot of the safty step can break off when using a swinging Dutchman and brushing into other standing timber!
Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
Thats a matter of opinion.
Today's work!
Purposely chairing a 120 foot snag with a couple bore and plunge cuts to remove a plug, make a couple hard dutchman relief cuts, pack hole with tanerite and saw waste, get back a couple hundred yards, squeeze the trigger and you got yourself a Blown Throne!
View attachment 994304View attachment 994305View attachment 994307How do you scrounge firewood!
Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
Sounds like you got yourself a darn good woman!I think that would be a hoot. I'm not sure my neighbors from Chicago would see the fun in it though!
We have a microwave that has been intermittently blowing the breaker for the last six years. My wife wants to put a couple pounds of tannerite in it and blow it to smithereens!
I definitely found a great one!Sounds like you got yourself a darn good woman!
Man I gotta beg mine just to help stack the splits lol.
Yeah….usually they look like “don’t move here”….
Those rarely work well. If you get the saw running satisfactorily you can probably get a new cover that has the standard tensioner for cheap to free….pm me if you want, I may have one.
Not quite sure I follow you bud. I'm not really understanding your definition of a Dutchman.Ther are two different major types of Dutchman. One can be extremely dangerous! The "Full Face Dutchman" or "Hard Dutchman" they are both the same type of Dutchman. The other can be extremely helpful and presents very very little danger when used correctly. The "Soft Dutchman" or "Swinging Dutchman." Also both the same type of Dutchman is not for inexperienced cutters. I'm not referring to you your self as inexperienced so please don't take it that way. Quite the opposite. I've read enough of your post to see you have a good understanding of the fundamentals of felling timber. The "Soft Dutchman" or Swinging Dutchman" can be used to minimize wedging or even eliminate wedging all together on a tree with certain amounts of lean. How heavy of a lean you can swing with a SD depends on skill level and experience at swinging timber. Swinging trees around in further opposite directions of lean than others can take mutch time to learn! Months and months sometimes a year or two. Some cutters have better technique and can simply swing timber more easily than others. Judgement on degree of lean plays a huge part in this.
The swinging Dutchman can also be assisted with a swizzle cut.Or and this is a big "OR!!!" Creating resistance in forward momentum thus causing the relieved wood behind the hinge to keep moving aft. Then instantly riping the trunk in half twords the top and chairing the tree! Now, I know you know what chairing is or "Barber Chair" as many folks call it, and we all know that a face cut dose not need a full face dutchman to cause a tree to chair. Certian trees chair more easily than others even trees with perfect face cuts, back cuts, and little lean. I'll stop here Sean and go more into depth on Dutchman's latter on. If you already know everything I've just mentioned in this post. I'll stop this desccusion with you all together because I don't want to waste either of our time on a topic we are both already familiar with ok bud.
