Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Well I drained the gas and it looked fresh . Refilled 5 pulls it started ran but only with the choke 1/2 on once I got it to rev I opened the choke and it cut nicely but died at idle . Guess I need to replace the carburetor if I can get one or rebuild it. It’s got a weird chain adjuster on it 21432095-8BE5-40C4-BCBA-08DA790C0FEA.jpegE3E7C523-0F1A-4A19-99A2-02DBB6837DA9.jpegAEE40067-7DB6-4B33-8103-962238C8DFD9.jpeg
 
Made the misses a large bell out of an oxygen tank it's got a nice mellow sound had it hanging from the tree branch but she had to walk a good ways to use so I made the stand today from oak and ash bits from the woodpile View attachment 994297
That's cool, do you happen to have a video of it.
Maybe she could just shoot it with a 22 or something to get it to ring :).
Speaking of shooting, anyone looking for some cheap 308, I'm having a hard time holding back.
Screen Shot 2022-06-08 at 9.24.21 PM.png
 
That's cool, do you happen to have a video of it.
Maybe she could just shoot it with a 22 or something to get it to ring :).
Speaking of shooting, anyone looking for some cheap 308, I'm having a hard time holding back.
View attachment 994300
Yes I do but I can’t upload to YouTube from my phone for some strange reason . I have to download it to my laptop and then upload to YouTube
 
The fog from rolled in from Lake Michigan and made a beautiful sunset. 20220608_203757.jpg
I was going to assist a climber take down 2 big ash trees and a red maple at my FIL's this weekend. Had to nix the plans because we had almost 3" of rain this week. Now I can get a bunch of ash bucked and hauled up to the woodshed. Hope everyone is having a great week.
 
Today's work!👍

Purposely chairing a 120 foot snag with a couple bore and plunge cuts to remove a plug, make a couple hard dutchman relief cuts, pack hole with tanerite and saw waste, get back a couple hundred yards, squeeze the trigger and you got yourself a Blown Throne! 👍

Try it some time, and you'll see that it's a blast! 😂

Actually maybe you shouldn't try it! 😂😂😂
IMG_20220608_174359308_HDR.jpgIMG_20220608_173735223_HDR.jpgIMG_20220608_173329133_HDR.jpgHow do you scrounge firewood! 🤣🤣🤣

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
 
Today's work!👍

Purposely chairing a 120 foot snag with a couple bore and plunge cuts to remove a plug, make a couple hard dutchman relief cuts, pack hole with tanerite and saw waste, get back a couple hundred yards, squeeze the trigger and you got yourself a Blown Throne! 👍

Try it some time, and you'll see that it's a blast! 😂

Actually maybe you shouldn't try it! 😂😂😂
View attachment 994304View attachment 994305View attachment 994307How do you scrounge firewood! 🤣🤣🤣

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
I think that would be a hoot. I'm not sure my neighbors from Chicago would see the fun in it though!:crazy2:
We have a microwave that has been intermittently blowing the breaker for the last six years. My wife wants to put a couple pounds of tannerite in it and blow it to smithereens!:blob2:
 
The reason for making your back cut flush with the top cut in a Humboldt face or flush with the bottom cut in a conventional face when cutting saw logs is because it Ieavs a flusher end of a saw log for less triming. To save production time. This is typically only done when droping timber into a good clearing out in front of the intended direction of the fall or "lead" if you will. With no other standing merchantable, non merchantable, defective timber, or snags out in front of the fall. If the area of your lead is completely clear. There is no possiblity of the tree brushing into another standing tree thus possibly causing the falling tree to slide back off the stump twords the Faller. If your timber is falling into or twords other standing. The higher back cut creates a stop. In case of the tree brushing back.

In short back cuts are cut flush with face cuts when leading into big clearings because it's perfectly safe and saves the cutter production time from not having to "trim the butt" like you would if the butt has a safty step. Like I said. When leading into other standing. A safty step should be used. Keep in mind!☝️ Often a lot of the safty step can break off when using a swinging Dutchman and brushing into other standing timber!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
Been hard to keep up with all your replys lol. I most typically use the Humboldt and a conventional face cut. The Dutchman (the way I understand it) I typically shy away from. I'm am not super comfortable allowing part of a hinge to be prematurely broken unless I specifically have to, and wouldn't do this near anything I was worried about crushing.
I have no reservations or issues telling someone I won't take a tree down, and it has cost me several great spots over the years. Although I've taken lots of blow overs, hang ups and other peoples f-ups down. I do prefer to be out in the woods away from everything.
I can't say I agree with your assement that a Humboldt isn't safe, or cutting higher has some sort of additional safty margin built in over a good hinge. If I'm worried about a tree coming back I'll use an open face and wedge it on over. I typically won't sacrifice a good hinge unless it's absolutely nessisary.
Idk we've all been taught a bit different and im no expert by any means, and wouldn't attempt a lot of things, but what I do works for me, and was taught by a very knowledgeable and safty oriented feller. He's just picky about his stumps and butts.
 
Today's work!👍

Purposely chairing a 120 foot snag with a couple bore and plunge cuts to remove a plug, make a couple hard dutchman relief cuts, pack hole with tanerite and saw waste, get back a couple hundred yards, squeeze the trigger and you got yourself a Blown Throne! 😂👍
View attachment 994304View attachment 994305View attachment 994307How do you scrounge firewood! 🤣🤣🤣

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

I think that would be a hoot. I'm not sure my neighbors from Chicago would see the fun in it though!:crazy2:
We have a microwave that has been intermittently blowing the breaker for the last six years. My wife wants to put a couple pounds of tannerite in it and blow it to smithereens!:blob2:
Sounds like you got yourself a darn good woman!👍😂
 
Been hard to keep up with all your replys lol. I most typically use the Humboldt and a conventional face cut. The Dutchman (the way I understand it) I typically shy away from. I'm am not super comfortable allowing part of a hinge to be prematurely broken unless I specifically have to, and wouldn't do this near anything I was worried about crushing.
I have no reservations or issues telling someone I won't take a tree down, and it has cost me several great spots over the years. Although I've taken lots of blow overs, hang ups and other peoples f-ups down. I do prefer to be out in the woods away from everything.
I can't say I agree with your assement that a Humboldt isn't safe, or cutting higher has some sort of additional safty margin built in over a good hinge. If I'm worried about a tree coming back I'll use an open face and wedge it on over. I typically won't sacrifice a good hinge unless it's absolutely nessisary.
Idk we've all been taught a bit different and im no expert by any means, and wouldn't attempt a lot of things, but what I do works for me, and was taught by a very knowledgeable and safty oriented feller. He's just picky about his stumps and butts.
Not quite sure I follow you bud. I'm not really understanding your definition of a Dutchman.Ther are two different major types of Dutchman. One can be extremely dangerous! The "Full Face Dutchman" or "Hard Dutchman" they are both the same type of Dutchman. The other can be extremely helpful and presents very very little danger when used correctly. The "Soft Dutchman" or "Swinging Dutchman." Also both the same type of Dutchman is not for inexperienced cutters. I'm not referring to you your self as inexperienced so please don't take it that way. Quite the opposite. I've read enough of your post to see you have a good understanding of the fundamentals of felling timber. The "Soft Dutchman" or Swinging Dutchman" can be used to minimize wedging or even eliminate wedging all together on a tree with certain amounts of lean. How heavy of a lean you can swing with a SD depends on skill level and experience at swinging timber. Swinging trees around in further opposite directions of lean than others can take mutch time to learn! Months and months sometimes a year or two. Some cutters have better technique and can simply swing timber more easily than others. Judgement on degree of lean plays a huge part in this. ☝️ The swinging Dutchman can also be assisted with a swizzle cut.

The Full Face Dutchman is usually created from unintentional bypass cuts in either the bottom cut or top cut in the face cut and usually done by people who have no clue on the basic fundamentals of cutting timber. Just let me make this clear so please bare with me. On the west coast and in Alaska. We don't call it a "wedge cut". We call it a "face cut"or "face up" it takes to cuts obviously to face up a tree to fall. The top cut and bottom cut. Weather it's a Humboldt or Conventional Face. The unintentional bypass cut creates a kerf all the way across the stump. Past the intersection where the top face cut and bottom face cut should meet at the front of the hinge wood. Henceforth the name "Full Face Dutchman". A FFD can be created from an unintentional bypass in either the top cut, bottom cut, or both. This is when stumps turn sloppy and very dangerous!
Thus prematurely breaking hinge wood when the kerf closes while cutting into your back cut twords the hinge. Thus causing loss of control in early stages of the trees commitment to fall. ☝️Or and this is a big "OR!!!" Creating resistance in forward momentum thus causing the relieved wood behind the hinge to keep moving aft. Then instantly riping the trunk in half twords the top and chairing the tree! Now, I know you know what chairing is or "Barber Chair" as many folks call it, and we all know that a face cut dose not need a full face dutchman to cause a tree to chair. Certian trees chair more easily than others even trees with perfect face cuts, back cuts, and little lean. I'll stop here Sean and go more into depth on Dutchman's latter on. If you already know everything I've just mentioned in this post. I'll stop this desccusion with you all together because I don't want to waste either of our time on a topic we are both already familiar with ok bud.👍

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
 
Stumps from trees fell with a "Soft Dutchman" or
"Swinging Dutchman" also known as a Swing Cut .
Note: No unintentional bypass cuts creating a hard dutchman in front of the hinge wood. And some of the back cut wood is not attached to the stump because of the intentional bypass SD. If you look close you can see a kerf in between the SD and BC. This will often easily break right off if the tree happens to shoot back and hit the back cut! 👍
IMG_20220518_154012459_HDR.jpg
IMG_20220516_135107665_HDR.jpg

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
 
Raising the back cut leaves a step, referred to as a ‘stump shot’. It reduces the likelihood of the cut base of the falling tree slipping backwards when falling.

Philbert

Im gonna ask the Forest Service people I volunteer with why they stress the back cut being higher, maybe that’s the reason.
 

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