Oil suggestion 100:1 or 50:1 on new saw

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bks

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I just received a Dolmar 5100. Manual suggested using the Dolmar oil at 100:1 and all others at 50:1. Is the Dolmar oil a synthetic or similar to Amsoil?

There were no break in instructions, some have a recommendaiton?

Thanks.
 
timberwolf

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40:1 synthetic. I cant imagine using 100:1 in a saw of any kind. What suits the EPA does not play well for saw life.

EPA likes more heat and less oil, IMHO that is not synonymous to longer engine life.
 
thomas72

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The only way I would run at 100:1 is in a water cooled engine, where heat is not a factor. I run around 40:1 in my newer saws and I have had no problems with them.
 
Elmore

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I say 40:1 to stay within the manufacturers recommendations (I assume they recommend their proprietary oil at 50:1 or another good brand at 40:1). Old school is to break them in with a close ratio of petroleum based mix. On my Blue 52cc Dolmar I first ran a few gallons of dino mix at about 25:1 then switched to Mobil MX2t at 32:1, adjusting the carb to the mix. I wouldn't run anything over 40:1.
 
wood4heat

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Only thing I do different on break in is to use dino oil and no wide open out of the cut. Synthetic oil is so slick it can keep your rings from seating.
 
blunt

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I'm using Jonsered Brand oil in my new 2141 and the dealer recommended going no higher than 40:1 and even suggested 30:1 during run in. I'm prolly sitting inbetween at about 35:1 but there is no excess smoke or engine bogging and the saw screams its tits off no problem.

My mate has a new 260 Stihl and he runs it at 50:1 on with the Stihl oil.

We both got 24month warranties if we use the manufacturers branded oil.

100:1 just sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Thankfully we don't have the EPA or any regulations on noise or smoke emissions etc. Well not yet anyway :cheers:
 
GASoline71

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You know some of us can't write our saws off as a business expense!! IRS frowns on that. So we have to take it a bit easier on them then you working guys.

Al

I can't afford to lose any either my friend. It's just silly to run different mix ratios and carb adjustments to "break in" a saw.

Business expenses and write off got nothin' to do with it.

Gary
 
Outlaw5.0

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I run a engine dynamometer for a living, so my ways of break-in are proven. I prefer to run a tank or two of 40:1 standard 2 cycle oil/gas mix. After that I move on to synthetic. The rings will seal up quicker with non synthetic oil. Rings will seat almost imediatley, but will still "break-in" and develope a better seal quicker with non synthetic oil. :cheers:
 
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nikocker

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I suppose if you're "on the clock" that makes sense. But why berate someone who wants to actually take care of someting that costs a bit of money. At least in their mind it will extend the life of their saw.

Al
 
GASoline71

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Berate someone... LMAO...

I guess if being anal helps you out in life then fine by me.

"Break in" is just not needed. 1,000's of loggers out here must be wrong in usin' saws all these years.

Oh wait... they are on the clock and can probably write off their saws. Bad analogy...:censored:

Gary
 
thomas72

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I think on a saw it is not that critical to break it in, as it will take an hour to do so. The cylinder is honed and the crankcase is constantly being lubricated so I do not think it will be a problem. Just my thought.
 

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