Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Sawyer Rob]

Sounds good We can definitely agree to disagree. I've heard a lot of horror stories from fellow hunters and Guides stop using the NP because of severe bullet segmentation when hitting big bone. Thus not penatrating into the vitals. IMOP its an older design and there are better projectiles on the market today. The fact that a 180 out of an 06 on a Blacktial separated on light bone and didn't punch through the entire animal was enough to make me a non believer , and that was just medium game. I Shot both my Kodiak's with 250gr Swift A-frames out of a .338WM first bear took only one shot and the game was over. Dropped in his tracks dead. The second bear only took two doses of the bullet. Both well placed shots breaking heavy bone and penatrating deep through vitals and breaking heavy bone on the other side only to stop short of the hide. All the bullets energy was used inside both animals. No energy wasted by over penatrating or rapid segmentation. Like I said earlier, A favorite amongst African PH's. However, it sounds like the NP has worked well for you Pard, and thats all that matters right? Whatever works for you. The Swift A-frame definitely works for me!

Your story makes me wonder why the famous bear guide, Phil Shoemaker also recommends either 200 NP's or 220 NP's, your choice, in 30 cal., and has no problem with someone showing up to camp with a 30-06? He says it's a most reliable bullet, too. Phil is a great guy and a great Alaskan bear guide, you must know him, if not you should try to catch up with him, he's a wealth of bear hunting knowledge. Ask him about him killing a fairly big charging brown bear with his 9mm pistol! lol

I've shot and have seen shot my share of big bears, also other big animals like moose, and had the chance to see how a number of different bullets work, used by hunters I took out, and I've got nothing but good things to say about NP's, they work very well in the biggest big game and still better than the others in smaller animals, making them the best all-around bullet available.

SR

 

[MustangMike]

I'm in the process of building a 338-06. If they shoot well, I plan to use the Barnes TTSX 225 grain bullets.

I should be able to launch them at 2,668 with H-380, and with a BC of .514 they will hold their power very well at any practical range.

These bullets generally shoot accurately and hold their power well, and my testing in test media has confirmed that they perform very well. They also do not have a "long delayed" opening, which would not be good for deer hunting.

I don't hunt the dangerous game that you guy do, but I would not hesitate to use them for it.

Shot placement is always the most important factor, after that most premium bullets will do the job.

The Barnes bullets will not lose their pedals unless they strike heavy bone, and they will not implode even on heavy bone, so the bone becomes part of the weapon.

I often shoot deer through the lungs and like an exit hole and good blood trail. This results in almost all of the meat being good, especially using "non lead" bullets.

My big dilemma is punching through the heavy brush. A tornado and several subsequent storms have destroyed the canopy, and clear shots are slim to none.

My barrel will have 1 in 9" twist instead of 1 in 10" to provide some additional gyroscopic stability. (Copper bullets are harder to stabilize).

 

[Vtrombly]

The highest power that I own is a Nazi K98k that my grandfather brought back from the war 44byf that was made at the Obendorf factory in Germany. It's in 8mm and I took it to the range once. Because of having it there it drummed up conversation with the range officer that was there. He offered that he had a deal if I allowed him to send some rounds downrange he would return the favor. I obliged and afterword he returned a couple minutes later with a handgun case that he retrieved from a locked cabinet for the range officers. In the case was a German Luger, but this one had a story. His father was at the landings in Normandy like my Grandfather. His father and company was ordered to take down an MG42 emplacement at the top of a bluff and they fought all morning to try and get there. After starting to overrun an emplacement he and a German came barrel to barrel at the same time and both were empty. He then went hand to hand and during the scuffle pulled the luger from the germans holster and defended himself with it and he was the one that walked away. Afterword he kept it and brought it home with him and after he passed it went into the hands of this man. So I was able to put some rounds through it. Was a great shooting gun, quite odd in how it functions more decorative then practical. He said it needed to be kept clean to work right. Was unexpected but it seems like thats how that goes out in the country or up north you end up meeting people and exchanging stories. And now when I see the 8mm I'll always remember that story and the sacrifices that that man's father and my own grandfather made landing on that beach and the marvel of how they could run up that hill with the weight of their enormous balls. Anyhow God bless them, bless all of us on here, and may all of us that know better keep this country what it was and should be. God bless America!

 

[North by Northwest]

I liked and took lots of deer with the old Nosler Solid Base bullets. When they went to BT, the bullets were much more fragile, and I did not like them as much.

Partitions are very reliable, but do not give you great expansion.

I have not experienced any problems with the Barnes Copper bullets in either test media or game, and I like that they are lead free as I eat what I shoot.

You should try some of the monolithic rounds if your concerned with lead consumption !

 

[North by Northwest]

I'm in the process of building a 338-06. If they shoot well, I plan to use the Barnes TTSX 225 grain bullets.

I should be able to launch them at 2,668 with H-380, and with a BC of .514 they will hold their power very well at any practical range.

These bullets generally shoot accurately and hold their power well, and my testing in test media has confirmed that they perform very well. They also do not have a "long delayed" opening, which would not be good for deer hunting.

I don't hunt the dangerous game that you guy do, but I would not hesitate to use them for it.

Shot placement is always the most important factor, after that most premium bullets will do the job.

The Barnes bullets will not lose their pedals unless they strike heavy bone, and they will not implode even on heavy bone, so the bone becomes part of the weapon.

I often shoot deer through the lungs and like an exit hole and good blood trail. This results in almost all of the meat being good, especially using "non lead" bullets.

My big dilemma is punching through the heavy brush. A tornado and several subsequent storms have destroyed the canopy, and clear shots are slim to none.

My barrel will have 1 in 9" twist instead of 1 in 10" to provide some additional gyroscopic stability. (Copper bullets are harder to stabilize).

I will loan you my Marlin Stainless 1895 Trapper 450 Big bore chambered in 450 / Hornaday 405 grain Nozler Partition's cuts right through that canopy for your Trophy Swamp Bucks brother !

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I'm in the process of building a 338-06. If they shoot well, I plan to use the Barnes TTSX 225 grain bullets.

I should be able to launch them at 2,668 with H-380, and with a BC of .514 they will hold their power very well at any practical range.

These bullets generally shoot accurately and hold their power well, and my testing in test media has confirmed that they perform very well. They also do not have a "long delayed" opening, which would not be good for deer hunting.

I don't hunt the dangerous game that you guy do, but I would not hesitate to use them for it.

Shot placement is always the most important factor, after that most premium bullets will do the job.

The Barnes bullets will not lose their pedals unless they strike heavy bone, and they will not implode even on heavy bone, so the bone becomes part of the weapon.

I often shoot deer through the lungs and like an exit hole and good blood trail. This results in almost all of the meat being good, especially using "non lead" bullets.

My big dilemma is punching through the heavy brush. A tornado and several subsequent storms have destroyed the canopy, and clear shots are slim to none.

My barrel will have 1 in 9" twist instead of 1 in 10" to provide some additional gyroscopic stability. (Copper bullets are harder to stabilize).

NOTHING that you can put up to your shoulder and fire, punches through brush ACCURATELY, nothing!

SR

 

[North by Northwest]

NOTHING that you can put up to your shoulder and fire, punches through brush ACCURATELY, nothing!

No , however a 405 grain partition bonded round will hit its mark in the boiler house more often than a 225 gr. A-Frame travelling @ 2668 fps through dense brush was my point brother . Actually a 6 lb lever action with a 26 " barrel with a peep sight mounted under see through Weaver mount on a 3x9 Bushnell Trophy T scope works very nice , compared to any open country rifle with fixed sights . How do I know ? Have shot more Deer , Bear & Moose in deep cover in Northern Michigan & Ontario than I can count on both our hands brother.

 

[MustangMike]

I won't dispute that SR, but some rounds do MUCH better than others. For example, soft 130 grain factory 270 rounds are virtually worthless in heavy brush.

Harder 30 caliber bullets are much more effective. I've personally seen too much evidence of "270" fails, either by extreme deflection, or lack of remaining power after punching through small saplings. Conversely, my 348 punched through a 1.5" sapling and made an impressive hole through the deer. It looked like someone was pouring a bucket of red paint in the snow for the 30 yds it went.

I'm just trying to improve my odds. Besides, as you know, it will just be a nice all around gun, and will be somewhat unique.

I am not a fan of the current "sub 30 caliber" rounds for woods hunting.

 

[MustangMike]

The increased twist of 1 in 9 will make the 225 grain Barnes more stable than 1 in 10 twist and will hold it's energy much better than a 45 over distance.

Everything is a compromise; I'm going somewhere in the middle.

 

[North by Northwest]

The highest power that I own is a Nazi K98k that my grandfather brought back from the war 44byf that was made at the Obendorf factory in Germany. It's in 8mm and I took it to the range once. Because of having it there it drummed up conversation with the range officer that was there. He offered that he had a deal if I allowed him to send some rounds downrange he would return the favor. I obliged and afterword he returned a couple minutes later with a handgun case that he retrieved from a locked cabinet for the range officers. In the case was a German Luger, but this one had a story. His father was at the landings in Normandy like my Grandfather. His father and company was ordered to take down an MG42 emplacement at the top of a bluff and they fought all morning to try and get there. After starting to overrun an emplacement he and a German came barrel to barrel at the same time and both were empty. He then went hand to hand and during the scuffle pulled the luger from the germans holster and defended himself with it and he was the one that walked away. Afterword he kept it and brought it home with him and after he passed it went into the hands of this man. So I was able to put some rounds through it. Was a great shooting gun, quite odd in how it functions more decorative then practical. He said it needed to be kept clean to work right. Was unexpected but it seems like thats how that goes out in the country or up north you end up meeting people and exchanging stories. And now when I see the 8mm I'll always remember that story and the sacrifices that that man's father and my own grandfather made landing on that beach and the marvel of how they could run up that hill with the weight of their enormous balls. Anyhow God bless them, bless all of us on here, and may all of us that know better keep this country what it was and should be. God bless America!

Yeah , Vince the Mauser K-98 was a very well know German infantry Sniper Rifle . It was idolized on "Enermy at the Gate" film a few yrs back . A very effective 8mm round also ballistically speaking . P.S. My Uncle landed on Juno Beach with the Canadian 3rd Infantry carrying a 10 round Lee-Infield .303 bolt action . He remarked often , how accurate it was also as a Sniper Rifle but a load to carry for the Infantry . He further remarked how later numerous Canadian's were issued USA M1 Garand semi auto 30 caliber carbines during the Campaign once into Paris . He once at our farm loaded his service rifle just prior to hunting season and demonstrated its fixed peep sight accuracy , lit a Eddy hardwood match 3 out of 5 times @ 20 yds . @ 78 yrs young . Blamed windage on the 2 miss's , wiry ole coot . P.S. Still have it in my Gun Chest , been offered over 5 K for it twice . Its not going anywhere . I fire it every Moose season on his Birthday , just once . Then clean & oil it , have a toast to him & Dad , & put it back in its case for another yr . Good Bless our Servicemen !

 

[North by Northwest]

The increased twist of 1 in 9 will make the 225 grain Barnes more stable than 1 in 10 twist and will hold it's energy much better than a 45 over distance.

Everything is a compromise; I'm going somewhere in the middlle

Absolutely , all the Big bore and even 30-30 .45/70 were basic bush guns more or less useless over 150 yds on any serious game . There are some newer lever actions that can hold their ground as middle weight open country rifles with more modern cartridges & rifling indeed , brother !

 

[North by Northwest]

I won't dispute that SR, but some rounds do MUCH better than others. For example, soft 130 grain factory 270 rounds are virtually worthless in heavy brush.

Harder 30 caliber bullets are much more effective. I've personally seen too much evidence of "270" fails, either by extreme deflection, or lack of remaining power after punching through small saplings. Conversely, my 348 punched through a 1.5" sapling and made an impressive hole through the deer. It looked like someone was pouring a bucket of red paint in the snow for the 30 yds it went.

I'm just trying to improve my odds. Besides, as you know, it will just be a nice all around gun, and will be somewhat unique.

I am not a fan of the current "sub 30 caliber" rounds for woods hunting.

Make sure you post a pic when your done brother , sounds like an impressive rifle project & I agree with your Methology within Mass & Density vs Velocity in the Big Timber . P.S. I was just yanking you chain on my 450 Marlin , my Son can't even get his hands on it !

 

[JustPlainJeff]

How’s that machine been treating ya

What year it that Brett , any issues sense you got it ? Once again nice Really interested in that one mentioned, What you think about RK tractors ?

RK tractors are actually produced by TYM tractors. Another South Korean tractor manufacturer. They're a pretty good brand really. The only problem is, that although TYM produces the tractor, they don't do warranty work on them, that's strictly up to RK. RK has very few competent mechanics. They do have some that service their dealer network as traveling mechanics, but waiting for them to get to you, diagnose the problem, order parts and then do the repairs can take quite a while, and leave your machine down for a while. If the machine is out of warranty, and you want to take it to a mechanic, then TYM WILL WORK on it at whatever their labor rate is. Or if you turn your own wrenches, it's irrelevant.

I've been on an RK and a TYM page for a while now, since I'm actually considering buying either an RK 74, or a TYM 754, which are both the same tractors. When I mentioned earlier about wanting to get a 75'ish HP machine, those two in a cab model, are what I have been considering pretty heavily.

I love my little Kubota, and it has been good to me, and problem-free. But I'm finding that these days, the orange paint is about as expensive as the green paint is, and if I can get a decent product at a lower price, I'm just going to have to consider those options as well.

 

[Squareground3691]

RK tractors are actually produced by TYM tractors. Another South Korean tractor manufacturer. They're a pretty good brand really. The only problem is, that although TYM produces the tractor, they don't do warranty work on them, that's strictly up to RK. RK has very few competent mechanics. They do have some that service their dealer network as traveling mechanics, but waiting for them to get to you, diagnose the problem, order parts and then do the repairs can take quite a while, and leave your machine down for a while. If the machine is out of warranty, and you want to take it to a mechanic, then TYM WILL WORK on it at whatever their labor rate is. Or if you turn your own wrenches, it's irrelevant.

I've been on an RK and a TYM page for a while now, since I'm actually considering buying either an RK 74, or a TYM 754, which are both the same tractors. When I mentioned earlier about wanting to get a 75'ish HP machine, those two in a cab model, are what I have been considering pretty heavily.

I love my little Kubota, and it has been good to me, and problem-free. But I'm finding that these days, the orange paint is about as expensive as the green paint is, and if I can get a decent product at a lower price, I'm just going to have to consider those options as well.

Good info thanks.

 

[Squareground3691]

RK tractors are actually produced by TYM tractors. Another South Korean tractor manufacturer. They're a pretty good brand really. The only problem is, that although TYM produces the tractor, they don't do warranty work on them, that's strictly up to RK. RK has very few competent mechanics. They do have some that service their dealer network as traveling mechanics, but waiting for them to get to you, diagnose the problem, order parts and then do the repairs can take quite a while, and leave your machine down for a while. If the machine is out of warranty, and you want to take it to a mechanic, then TYM WILL WORK on it at whatever their labor rate is. Or if you turn your own wrenches, it's irrelevant.

I've been on an RK and a TYM page for a while now, since I'm actually considering buying either an RK 74, or a TYM 754, which are both the same tractors. When I mentioned earlier about wanting to get a 75'ish HP machine, those two in a cab model, are what I have been considering pretty heavily.

I love my little Kubota, and it has been good to me, and problem-free. But I'm finding that these days, the orange paint is about as expensive as the green paint is, and if I can get a decent product at a lower price, I'm just going to have to consider those options as well.

The nearest RK dealership is like over 300 miles from me I have a Kubota dealer 10 mins away hmmmmm lol

 

[Lionsfan]

RK tractors are actually produced by TYM tractors. Another South Korean tractor manufacturer. They're a pretty good brand really. The only problem is, that although TYM produces the tractor, they don't do warranty work on them, that's strictly up to RK. RK has very few competent mechanics. They do have some that service their dealer network as traveling mechanics, but waiting for them to get to you, diagnose the problem, order parts and then do the repairs can take quite a while, and leave your machine down for a while. If the machine is out of warranty, and you want to take it to a mechanic, then TYM WILL WORK on it at whatever their labor rate is. Or if you turn your own wrenches, it's irrelevant.

I've been on an RK and a TYM page for a while now, since I'm actually considering buying either an RK 74, or a TYM 754, which are both the same tractors. When I mentioned earlier about wanting to get a 75'ish HP machine, those two in a cab model, are what I have been considering pretty heavily.

I love my little Kubota, and it has been good to me, and problem-free. But I'm finding that these days, the orange paint is about as expensive as the green paint is, and if I can get a decent product at a lower price, I'm just going to have to consider those options as well.

I don't know much about TYM, but a couple dealerships sprung up in my OP area and the pricing is certainly attractive. I do know that most of the guys in my neighborhood have moved away from Kubota and gone to LS. The price tags are more realistic for homeowner use, they hold up well and they get excelent support from the dealership.

 

[chipper1]

I don't know much about TYM, but a couple dealerships sprung up in my OP area and the pricing is certainly attractive. I do know that most of the guys in my neighborhood have moved away from Kubota and gone to LS. The price tags are more realistic for homeowner use, they hold up well and they get excelent support from the dealership.

Yeah, but are they orange .

 

[Lionsfan]

This is a different era than we grew up in bud, it can be whatever color it wants to be.

 

[JustPlainJeff]

I don't know much about TYM, but a couple dealerships sprung up in my OP area and the pricing is certainly attractive. I do know that most of the guys in my neighborhood have moved away from Kubota and gone to LS. The price tags are more realistic for homeowner use, they hold up well and they get excelent support from the dealership.

I've researched LS as well. I actually got a quote for a 73HP cab machine from a (relatively) local dealer. They have a demo with I forget exactly how many hours on it, but not many at all, that I could get for 48.5K.

The only problem with LS, and more accurately is their dealers. If you go on YouTube and watch reviews, MANY of them have had terrible problems with warranty/repair issues almost always relating to the DPF/emissions. As with most tractor brands, if your dealer isn't worth a crap, it can ruin the entire owning experience. I can turn a wrench, but I'm no expert, and I have ZERO knowledge in dealing with emissions related issues, so that's not something that I'd want to tear into. If you stay under the 75HP threshold, you at least don't have to deal with DEF, but you'll still have to deal with a DPF and re-gen related stuff.

So, I guess for me to consider an LS more seriously, I'd have to be sold on their service department, and feel somewhat assured that they were competent to deal with whatever came up, at least during the warranty period.

 

[turnkey4099]

Damn!!! Guy I cleaned up a willow bush for came this morning "a big branch fell during th wind this morning, would you help clean it up?" Sure. Got out there and it was more like half a huge old willow. His whole family including son's in law were there. I was brushing on one side, he and family brushing and cleaning up on the other. We got it down to the main stem that was still partially attached about 15' up. He brought out his bucket truck and fired up a asaw that souded "serious". Looked farly ne, Stihl had a wonderfuj "crakle to it. After we got it on the ground I got a close look= MS500i

What a 60yoa farmer is doing with a saw like that I don't know but I'm willing to marry any one of his daughters in hope of inheriting it!! He says he bought it at the local Pape John Deere dealership which carries Stihl for $1,200. Last I checked that is the price for the 400i .