Husqvarna 570

[Armosh]

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I just picked up a used Husqvarna 570 with heavy piston scoring for $80.00. I was looking for a project saw to tinker with and maybe learn something, small engine equipment is a bit of a hobby for me, and I am no means an expert, as far as the saw goes I know it was made in 2004 and the serial is: 04 4900206. There is a number above it that is tough to make out, I will attach the the picture I took of it so you guys can look for yourself. Any info you can provide on the saw would be greatly appreciated. What are some mods that can be done, what other models parts will interchange etc. I'm looking forward to tearing into it. Thanks in advance.

 

[CobraChevelle]

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I just picked up a used Husqvarna 570 with heavy piston scoring for $80.00. I was looking for a project saw to tinker with and maybe learn something, small engine equipment is a bit of a hobby for me, and I am no means an expert, as far as the saw goes I know it was made in 2004 and the serial is: 04 4900206. There is a number above it that is tough to make out, I will attach the the picture I took of it so you guys can look for yourself. Any info you can provide on the saw would be greatly appreciated. What are some mods that can be done, what other models parts will interchange etc. I'm looking forward to tearing into it. Thanks in advance.

I don't know much about this model, but with any used saw I look at that's needs work I always expect it needing new bearings, seals, maybe a carb rebuild along with the top end kit.

I would also be careful on how much a guy puts into a used saw. Sometimes for an extra $100 or $200 you can buy a new saw.. Just something to think about.

 

[Armosh]

I don't know much about this model, but with any used saw I look at that's needs work I always expect it needing new bearings, seals, maybe a carb rebuild along with the top end kit.

I would also be careful on how much a guy puts into a used saw. Sometimes for an extra $100 or $200 you can buy a new saw.. Just something to think about.

I appreciate the sentiment about not putting a lot into it. I only do this for a hobby. Believe it or not the saw actually runs, it starts just fine but due to the heavy scoring it has no power. I knew that when I bought it. Only problem I see with the carb is the idle set screw broke off from its mount. I'll be cleaning and probably throwing a rebuild kit in the carb anyway. Just enjoying the process really. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Pioneer]

Did a 575 piston and cylinder on one, used the meteor kit. In my case the OEM piston and cylinder were beyond repair, you might be able to get away with just a piston and rings.

I found the saw pretty easy to work on, it was well laid out with a thought to maintenance and repair. During testing I found the saw had decent power even though it wasn't broken in yet, definitely needed the decomp, loads of compression. It had no problem pulling a 32-in bar and chain that came with it. The meteor kit was excellent quality, I would definitely buy another one of their kits.
Maybe a little heavy compared to other saws in their power class, but a pretty competent saw and I haven't heard any bad things about them.
You may or may not need new crank seals, the strato saws tend to run pretty hot on the exhaust side and scoring isn't that rare, so it doesn't automatically mean the seals are bad too.
Even if you had to replace the cylinder and piston I think you got a pretty good deal if the saw is otherwise complete.

 

[Armosh]

Did a 575 piston and cylinder on one, used the meteor kit. In my case the OEM piston and cylinder were beyond repair, you might be able to get away with just a piston and rings.

I found the saw pretty easy to work on, it was well laid out with a thought to maintenance and repair. During testing I found the saw had decent power even though it wasn't broken in yet, definitely needed the decomp, loads of compression. It had no problem pulling a 32-in bar and chain that came with it. The meteor kit was excellent quality, I would definitely buy another one of their kits.
Maybe a little heavy compared to other saws in their power class, but a pretty competent saw and I haven't heard any bad things about them.
You may or may not need new crank seals, the strato saws tend to run pretty hot on the exhaust side and scoring isn't that rare, so it doesn't automatically mean the seals are bad too.
Even if you had to replace the cylinder and piston I think you got a pretty good deal if the saw is otherwise complete.

I was already eyeing the Meteor kit. Debating to get just a new piston or the cylinder kit. I still can't believe it runs with the nasty scoring on the exhaust side. I pulled the carb earlier so I can clean it and possibly rebuild it and noticed how nice the intake side looks, doesn't look like it scored like the exhaust side did. The inside of the cylinder (from what can be seen anyway without pulling it the rest of the way apart) looks fairly good. So the 575 Meteor kit will probably be where I go myself. Really excited with this project. Learning a lot too. Also, what exactly are the strato saws? I keep hearing it, is it just a Husqvarna thing? Is it the engine design they now call x torq?

 

[Jed1124]

Clutch side crank bearing was a weak point on this saw if I’m remembering correctly.

 

[Captain Bruce]

I don't know much about this model, but with any used saw I look at that's needs work I always expect it needing new bearings, seals, maybe a carb rebuild along with the top end kit.

I would also be careful on how much a guy puts into a used saw. Sometimes for an extra $100 or $200 you can buy a new saw.. Just something to think about.

like cobrachevelle said. thats a big box local dealer model. You could easily put 300 bucks into it, if its done right.

 

[Pioneer]

Strato, short for strato charged. A generic term for saws of this type. Husqvarna calls it x-torq.



It uses a charge of pure air to push out the exhaust. It guarantees a fully purged cylinder and prevents a part of the fresh charge from going out with the exhaust gasses, which reduces fuel consumption a bit and promotes afterburning of the exhaust which lowers emissions. In part, it's similar to the air injection that used to be on cars in the 70s and early 80s, with the same goal of afterburning to reduce emissions.
The afterburning does make it run hotter on the exhaust side, you really don't want to touch one of these mufflers after a long cut.

 

[Husky77]

Sounds like a good project, font matter what it cost just take your time and enjoy it. At the end you'll have a good saw that will last you years.

 

[Armosh]

Sounds like a good project, font matter what it cost just take your time and enjoy it. At the end you'll have a good saw that will last you years.

Thank you, I enjoy doing stuff like this. Also on an unrelated note; love your avatar!

 

[mbrick]

Sounds like a great project.

I rebuilt a 576 a few years back. As noted above it was well laid out and easy to work on. I ended up needing a top end, stator side crank seal, and carb rebuild.

I suggest a vacuum and then pressure test after rebuilding so you know it's good and tight. I would not have caught the leaky crank seal otherwise. Although the amount of dirt adhered around the stator and coil were maybe a sign now that I look back on it.

 

[thenne1713]

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I just picked up a used Husqvarna 570 with heavy piston scoring for $80.00. I was looking for a project saw to tinker with and maybe learn something, small engine equipment is a bit of a hobby for me, and I am no means an expert, as far as the saw goes I know it was made in 2004 and the serial is: 04 4900206. There is a number above it that is tough to make out, I will attach the the picture I took of it so you guys can look for yourself. Any info you can provide on the saw would be greatly appreciated. What are some mods that can be done, what other models parts will interchange etc. I'm looking forward to tearing into it. Thanks in advance.

The 570 is a 49mm bore, 68cc Pro saw. but single piston ring, and OEM 49mm PC KIT was $350+; today, the 75cc 575 PC KIT (51mm? or 52mm?) is direct fit w/ size increase and dual piston rings, getting rare/ hard to find, but I got one off-brand 575 kit for spare parts/ rebuild on clearance for $20; not yet used the kit, OLD doing fine in my occasional milling. I am thinking maybe-2008 when I bought my saw? Good luck finding a KIT for the 575.

 

[thenne1713]

HERE is a nice KIT+ https://www.ebay.com/itm/3542211352...044&customid=c60030096ac5107348405318ece74d8b

or try: https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search...&param2=84481&type=type9097303-spa-4056-84481

 

[Pioneer]

Meteor kits. Bought mine on ebay, also came with caber rings.

https://www.wolfcreeksawshop.com/pr...sqvarna-575-575xp-570-51mm-caber-rings-italy/
https://www.hlsproparts.com/Meteor-Husqvarna-570-575XP-cylinder-assembly-p/mcc2577.htm

 

[Marshy]

I was already eyeing the Meteor kit. Debating to get just a new piston or the cylinder kit. I still can't believe it runs with the nasty scoring on the exhaust side. I pulled the carb earlier so I can clean it and possibly rebuild it and noticed how nice the intake side looks, doesn't look like it scored like the exhaust side did. The inside of the cylinder (from what can be seen anyway without pulling it the rest of the way apart) looks fairly good. So the 575 Meteor kit will probably be where I go myself. Really excited with this project. Learning a lot too. Also, what exactly are the strato saws? I keep hearing it, is it just a Husqvarna thing? Is it the engine design they now call x torq?

The strato design engine is used by Husqvarna and Stihl. It's an engine design that allows a layer of fresh air (with no fuel) to enter the combustion chamber ahead of the fuel/air charge. That way when there is spillage from the combustion chamber it's just fresh air without fuel/oil.

Anyways, if you had to replace your top end, the 575 is a direct swap. You should check around for the OEM top ends. I bought a Husqvarna 575 top end for cheaper than aftermarket at one point.
Also, before you take the reopens apart, you should do a pressure/vacuum check to make sure the crank seals are not leaking. That era of husqvarna saws had crank bearing issues. You'll need to strip the flywheel and oiler to gain access to the seals. Spray them with soapy water when under pressure. For the vac test it should hold vacuum for a while. Theres an actual time and vaccum value in some manuals.

 

[Armosh]

The strato design engine is used by Husqvarna and Stihl. It's an engine design that allows a layer of fresh air (with no fuel) to enter the combustion chamber ahead of the fuel/air charge. That way when there is spillage from the combustion chamber it's just fresh air without fuel/oil.

Anyways, if you had to replace your top end, the 575 is a direct swap. You should check around for the OEM top ends. I bought a Husqvarna 575 top end for cheaper than aftermarket at one point.
Also, before you take the reopens apart, you should do a pressure/vacuum check to make sure the crank seals are not leaking. That era of husqvarna saws had crank bearing issues. You'll need to strip the flywheel and oiler to gain access to the seals. Spray them with soapy water when under pressure. For the vac test it should hold vacuum for a while. Theres an actual time and vaccum value in some manuals.

Do you have a suggestion for a vac/pressure tester? I don't own one yet but sounds like I'll need one if I'm going to be playing with the 2 strokes more. And how do I hook it up exactly? Adapter on the intake side, do you have to buy block off plates or some other method? Thanks for all the replies guys, appreciate it.

 

[Armosh]

I see you are my neighbor up there in Mexico Marshy. Hello from Madison county

 

[mbrick]

Mityvac Professional (has vac and pressure).

On my 576 I made block off plates for the exhaust and carb and tested through the impulse line.
Carb side just small pieces of steel. Exhaust side I cut a paper gasket to go under a small piece of steel cut to size and put some grease on it.

Both Husky and Stihl service manuals have the recommended pressures and times to test. I thought Stihl was a bit more thorough.

Here is the only photo I found of the setup.

 

[Armosh]

Mityvac Professional (has vac and pressure).

On my 576 I made block off plates for the exhaust and carb and tested through the impulse line.
Carb side just small pieces of steel. Exhaust side I cut a paper gasket to go under a small piece of steel cut to size and put some grease on it.

Both Husky and Stihl service manuals have the recommended pressures and times to test. I thought Stihl was a bit more thorough.

Here is the only photo I found of the setup.

View attachment 1014577

Thanks, that gives me some guidance of where I need to go.

 

[mbrick]

Np. I think there are many ways to do it and many members here more experienced than I. Just one approach!