266xp

[Farmer_Nate]

Will soon be tearing apart an old 266xp to do bearings, seals, etc. I think I have a 1988 model according to the black serial number. I have seen stuff online about these models, such as common locations to watch for to prevent air leaks. Any experiences with this model would be helpful. I am considering omitting the cylinder gasket i.e. "base delete?"

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

My 266XP had a minor air leak at the gasket between the carb and insulator block. Not sure how common that is but something to be aware of. I use the 272 carb gasket which is still available from Husqvarna. Other than that crank seals and o-rings. Be careful doing a base gasket delete. You could block the pulse port if you get a little over zealous with the sealant.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

My 266XP had a minor air leak at the gasket between the carb and insulator block. Not sure how common that is but something to be aware of. I use the 272 carb gasket which is still available from Husqvarna. Other than that crank seals and o-rings. Be careful doing a base gasket delete. You could block the pulse port if you get a little over zealous with the sealant.

Thank you. So there is not a separate impulse line? I'll look at the parts diagram more closely.

I heard the plastic blocks which mount the carb to the engine may crack?

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Thank you. So there is not a separate impulse line? I'll look at the parts diagram more closely.

I heard the plastic blocks which mount the carb to the engine may crack?

No impulse hose it comes through the insulator block. They can crack, I haven’t seen it much personally though. Give it a good visual inspection, it will be obvious if it is cracked. Also don’t over tighten the carb bolts, just get them snug using hand tools.

 

[Sierra_rider]

Will soon be tearing apart an old 266xp to do bearings, seals, etc. I think I have a 1988 model according to the black serial number. I have seen stuff online about these models, such as common locations to watch for to prevent air leaks. Any experiences with this model would be helpful. I am considering omitting the cylinder gasket i.e. "base delete?"

I don't know much about 2-series Huskies, but I'll comment on the base gasket delete. Check the squish band with the gasket out. If you have .020"+, you're good to go. I use a product called Motoseal if I'm doing a base gasket delete.

 

[Chevboy0167]

The Tinman on YouTube has a bit of time with the 200 series saws and knows a few tricks.

 

[J D]

If you measure your squish before you pull it apart you can then measure the gasket & make a fairly good judgement as to whether you can loose it

 

[Squareground3691]

There work horses for sure , easy to work on to , Use OEM gaskets and any parts when needed if at all possible. They run real good

 

[Farmer_Nate]

I don't know much about 2-series Huskies, but I'll comment on the base gasket delete. Check the squish band with the gasket out. If you have .020"+, you're good to go. I use a product called Motoseal if I'm doing a base gasket delete.

I bought Motoseal the other day. Yes, looks like a good product.
I see others checking squish with a piece of solder.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

There work horses for sure , easy to work on to , Use OEM gaskets and any parts when needed if at all possible. They run real good

Wow, nice saw.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

There work horses for sure , easy to work on to , Use OEM gaskets and any parts when needed if at all possible. They run real good

Plastic looks good on yours, very faded on the one coming to me. Any tips for polishing up those plastics? Rub off the oxidation?

 

[Squareground3691]

Plastic looks good on yours, very faded on the one coming to me. Any tips for polishing up those plastics? Rub off the oxidation?

I acquired mine it was a shell queen, hardly used and got it for a steal , Yea there are some plastic restorers out there , just don’t know names off hand, if you google it or YouTube you will find wha ur looking for some car care mild rubbing compound products work well to .

 

[Squareground3691]

Lithium Auto Elixirs Trim Serum- Plastic Restorer- Restores Even The Most Damaged Plastic, Rubber and Vinyl, Last for Months, Penetrates Plastic Pores Restoring Color. (16oz). https://a.co/d/fMscOkk

 

[Sierra_rider]

I bought Motoseal the other day. Yes, looks like a good product.
I see others checking squish with a piece of solder.

Yep, solder. A good rule of thumb is to test the squish band with a solder thickness that's less than double the squish band thickness. If the solder is at or more than twice the squish band, it can create false readings. Usually these older saws have room for a base gasket delete, but it's always good to check.

Another thing, the Motoseal will add a few thousandths back into the squish band.

 

[grizz55chev]

Yep, solder. A good rule of thumb is to test the squish band with a solder thickness that's less than double the squish band thickness. If the solder is at or more than twice the squish band, it can create false readings. Usually these older saws have room for a base gasket delete, but it's always good to check.

Another thing, the Motoseal will add a few thousandths back into the squish band.

Under most circumstances, a few thou won't make much difference. The target is usually around .020 + or -.. .021 would not make much of a change. Your milage may vary.

 

[Sierra_rider]

Under most circumstances, a few thou won't make much difference. The target is usually around .020 + or -.. .021 would not make much of a change. Your milage may vary.

Agree, but if the squish is a bit tight w/o the gasket, it might bring it up to an acceptable number.

There are instances where I factor in the thickness of Motoseal, but a cylinder with a flat base is generally not one of them...it's special circumstances on cylinders that I can cut squish, but transfer tunnels prevent me from cutting the base...which is information that's superfluous to this thread.