But, but, but ole Harvey AKA Ironhorse recommends them, how could they not do as stated by the inventor? LOL
Chainsaw Overheating FIX
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But, but, but ole Harvey AKA Ironhorse recommends them, how could they not do as stated by the inventor? LOL
That's not what we are talking about
I was always tought air flows from high pressure to lower pressure.
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Just take the cover off and run it. Is there a difference? Does the saw run any better?
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But, but, but ole Harvey AKA Ironhorse recommends them, how could they not do as stated by the inventor? LOL
Only thing missing from that video is the nice new sharp spade bit embedding into the operators wrist.
The fan geometry and the nozzle placement is such that the air box takes suction from a lower pressure portion of the fan while the particles are flung out into the higher pressure portion.
There isn't enough pressure from the fan to overcome the suction of the motor.
Runs the same in my expiereance. Although if it did run different you could chalk it upntonthings like different resonance, less restrictive flow, etc.
If you want to cool it work on the other end modify the muffler and add a copper shield between the muffler and the cylinder it will disperse heat and I have checked it with a temp gun
But not enough to worry about if you are just cutting wood lol
But not enough to worry about if you are just cutting wood lol
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Mine too. But there are folks here that spare no expense on saws. Those with 100s of saws, multiple saws of the same brand and models, need something to spend money on, right. For the rest of us, it is a simple thing to see if there is any value.
The 500i has vents, but those are just to be cool. Like me!
thompsoncustom
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Think of it this way; if you could pressurize the intake with the flywheel or a simple fan there would be no need for a tubrocharger which is still a fan but not only in the design different but it's spinning at anywhere from 50,000rpm to 300,000rpm.
Good points...
Maybe a supercharged saw is the way to go. I'll work on that next!
Nate
Maybe a supercharged saw is the way to go. I'll work on that next!
Nate
I did not read all of this post but as for making a chainsaw run cooler
How do you read the running temperature both before the mod and after the mod?
Do you do a temperature test while the saw is loaded in a cut or ???"
(so as to confirm how much temperature drop the mod produced)
How do you read the running temperature both before the mod and after the mod?
Do you do a temperature test while the saw is loaded in a cut or ???"
(so as to confirm how much temperature drop the mod produced)
No need to build one just buy one. Superchargers were released over four years ago for small two stoke engines. It is not a turbo fan but a true displacement blower on a belt drive off the crank.
Stop bogging down your tools or running them lean will cure the heat issues most times.
Added shrouds definitely makes air cooled engines run cooler. My 660 milling saw has added cooling.
K.I.S.S.
How do you read the running temperature both before the mod and after the mod?
Do you do a temperature test while the saw is loaded in a cut or ???"
That and a flywheel fan more resembles a supercharger than a turbocharger. Turbos are driven by the exhaust and have a lag. Superchargers are directly driven by the engine.
Myself, I don't see much similarity to either. If you want to make comparisons, I'd say that the boost from the flywheel fan more resembles the carburetor air boost provided by the radiator fan in a car. Not much.
Yeah, and on a saw, cramming air in through the carb would only serve to blow out crank seals. There would have to be some other better way.
OK
So now I get the fan doesn't compress air and send to the carb, it simply helps keep chunks away from the filter, at least on an older saw.
So, in that case, what's the disadvantage of those vents the OP mentioned besides letting in water?
OK
So now I get the fan doesn't compress air and send to the carb, it simply helps keep chunks away from the filter, at least on an older saw.
So, in that case, what's the disadvantage of those vents the OP mentioned besides letting in water?
Biggest I see is that you would be wasting too much money on some cheap vents that don't do any good.
I have yet to see any demonstration of improvement. All that time with videos, surely he could get a laser thermometer to confirm that it does some measurable benefit.
Quite frankly, I've never felt any need to improve an air breather cover from a manufacturer, esp not from Husqy. Maybe I just haven't run them enough in the last 30-40 years.
I have yet to see any demonstration of improvement. All that time with videos, surely he could get a laser thermometer to confirm that it does some measurable benefit.
Quite frankly, I've never felt any need to improve an air breather cover from a manufacturer, esp not from Husqy. Maybe I just haven't run them enough in the last 30-40 years.
Get a hot day, have one saw and two covers ready.
1. Cut some wood with the modified cover on. Run it til it is very hot, then measure the carb temp through the open hole you have drilled.
2. With the engine still running, put the unmodified cover on. Run it cutting wood for the same amount of time as the first run. With engine still running, dismount the cover and read the carb temp.
3. Put the modified cover back on, run saw hard for the same time as the previous two runs. Measure temperature of carb with the engine still running.
Now if the little holes do any good, the carb temp will have risen after putting on the factory cover, and will have cooled back down some with the last run, using the modified cover.
Then do a chi-squared analysis of the temperature changes you recorded, and solve for significant deviation on your numbers. Just be aware that the smaller the sample size, the bigger change must be seen in order to confirm that your results actually mean anything.
Just for fun, of course!
Lies, damn lies, and then statistics.
