Stihl 044 Overheated... looking for opinions

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mkohler

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The short version is, I'm looking for an opinion on the condition of my Piston/Cylinder. So if you want to scroll past the rest that's fine. Should I install a new piston and jug or go with what I have. Its an occasional use saw for felling saw logs and cutting some firewood. It overheated, smoke coming off the saw, which I still have to diagnose.

The long story:

My house burned down, pretty much to the ground in 2014. The old 044 was right beside the origin of the fire but was somehow still in one piece. It had been burned, partially melted, soaked from the firefighting efforts, frozen, and snowed on. I found it, took it outside, and just for fun gave the cord a pull. The cord pulled but didn’t retract. I figured it lived a good life, maybe I would part it out. I went back to salvaging other things. After a couple of hours I noticed the saw glistening in the sun, starting to drip off the melting ice from within. The pull cord had slowly retracted as the ice melted away. I decided to throw in some fresh fuel and give it a real try. After about ten pulls it gave that promising rumble, like it was trying to start. And start it did. I've run the saw regularly since then with not much more put into it than a bar and chain (I replaced the piston back in 2010 or so). It's not pretty but it's always been powerful and reliable. The saw means quite a bit to me.

I was milling some lumber last weekend and using it to square off log ends. After one cut it overheated, with smoke rolling off it. I set it aside and grabbed the 026 for the rest of the day. I found some time this week to pull the cylinder and get a look at things. The problem is, I don't know how bad, bad is. There's some obvious scoring on both sides. And I've got no problem buying and aftermarket cylinder and piston (10mm pin FYI), but I'd like to at least keep the OEM jug if it's salvageable. So I'm looking for some opinions on that. Should I replace both? Should I just replace the piston?

Then on to the overheating. It's always run well, and was running well when it overheated. Air filter was clean. Spark arrester was clean. Gas was good (used it in both saws). Didn't seem to be leaking at the exhaust. Maybe a carb issue or air leak somewhere? I'm not set up to do compression testing, but I could get the gear if I need to...


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That doesn't look terrible. Jug should probably clean up. New piston & rings.

Your main job is to find the air leak that likely killed it. Much easier to do if the jug is still attached. At the age of this saw I would do intake boot, impulse line, crank seals as the prime suspects.
 
I agree with Steve, jug looks like it should clean up good, new meteor piston and that issue should be fixed. Given the whole "near a fire" aspect, I would say giving it a carb rebuild, fuel line, intake boot, impulse line, and crank seals wouldn't hurt it at all.
 
Thanks guys. When you say the jug should clean up, how should it be 'cleaned'?

I don't have the tools to do a vac test, but I'm not afraid to buy them. I assume something like this would work :
https://www.amazon.ca/Lil-Red-Barn-Pressure-Trimmers/dp/B082RDNYFY
So carb rebuild, fuel line, intake boot, impulse line, and crank seals. The intake book actually looks great visually, the fuel line and impulse line look pretty rigid. Can the crank seals be doth without splitting the case?
 
Thanks guys. When you say the jug should clean up, how should it be 'cleaned'?

I don't have the tools to do a vac test, but I'm not afraid to buy them. I assume something like this would work :
https://www.amazon.ca/Lil-Red-Barn-Pressure-Trimmers/dp/B082RDNYFY
So carb rebuild, fuel line, intake boot, impulse line, and crank seals. The intake book actually looks great visually, the fuel line and impulse line look pretty rigid. Can the crank seals be doth without splitting the case?
That is a really nice vac and pressure testing pump but it is rather pricy once the shipping is added in, the Mityvac 8500 is what many of us use and its a well made unit, I would check that one out before spending close to $200. on the linked one. If the fuel and impulse line are stiff replace them, the crank seals just pop out and back in without separating the cases. The 044 is a solid workhorse of a saw , definitely worth few dollars to rebuild it.
 
Thanks guys. When you say the jug should clean up, how should it be 'cleaned'?

I don't have the tools to do a vac test, but I'm not afraid to buy them. I assume something like this would work :
https://www.amazon.ca/Lil-Red-Barn-Pressure-Trimmers/dp/B082RDNYFY
So carb rebuild, fuel line, intake boot, impulse line, and crank seals. The intake book actually looks great visually, the fuel line and impulse line look pretty rigid. Can the crank seals be doth without splitting the case?

Lots of reading here how to clean up transfer from cylinders. Do a search.
 
Look okay, or need more work?
Need better photos. Get a flashlight. What matters most is above the ports.

Once you are done removing the transfer go over the cylinder with red scotchbrite on a drill mandrel of some sort. And then THOROUGHLY wash the entire cylinder with dish soap and hot water to remove any remaining grit from the cleaning process.
 
Nice, better than my work, is that not original cylinder? Looks like straight fin Gilardano not usual slant fin but good cylinder either way, would be interesting what squish is and if passes pressure vac test
 
I always thought it was the original cylinder, but maybe not. Here’s the numbers on it.
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