Another attempt at salvaging the oem 044 cylinder

[atimen]

Hello everyone,
Can I ask you for your opinion on whether this oem cylinder on the 044 12mm pin can be salvaged? I've been trying to manually remove the grooves from the stuck piston for about 4 hours now, I got a new oem piston but I don't know if it makes sense to continue or if I should just get a meteor cylinder, for example, I don't know if it's worth looking for an oem cylinder for about 200 usd, before the intake elbow broke, the saw was running like new.

thanks for any recommendations.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Looks to still be some transfer (darker areas) around the port- that needs to go away.
Then if you can feel any grooves that will catch a fingernail or small pick in the clean cylinder plating- it might not be so good.
Split mandrel and emery cloth of various grades seems to be a simple low cost and fairly safe way of removing transfer.

On a side note- I own a very nice .22lr that was built in Brno in 1954.

 

[SteveSr]

Split mandrel and emery cloth of various grades seems to be a simple low cost and fairly safe way of removing transfer.

Just watch out for the port edges. This may be better done by hand. I think that you can start relatively coarse like 180 to get the majority off and then move to 220.

 

[huskihl]

80 grit emery paper and oil on a mandrel in a dremel or drill and that will be gone in 15 minutes. If you want to send it to me I can do it and send it back

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

80 grit emery paper and oil on a mandrel in a dremel or drill and that will be gone in 15 minutes. If you want to send it to me I can do it and send it back

Be a costly shipping fee each way would it not?

 

[Chainmale]

Be a costly shipping fee each way would it not?

I had to Check that

 

[Mad Professor]

Looks to still be some transfer (darker areas) around the port- that needs to go away.
Then if you can feel any grooves that will catch a fingernail or small pick in the clean cylinder plating- it might not be so good.
Split mandrel and emery cloth of various grades seems to be a simple low cost and fairly safe way of removing transfer.

On a side note- I own a very nice .22lr that was built in Brno in 1954.

I agree. I'd hit those with a q-tip with some acid on it. Then finger sand with wet/dry and detergent solution.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I agree. I'd hit those with a q-tip with some acid on it. Then finger sand with wet/dry and detergent solution.

Thats basically the method I use as well- but if you are new, dont have acid- split mandrel can be safe and reasonably fast.

 

[huskihl]

Be a costly shipping fee each way would it not?

Didn’t even look. I forget there are folks from all over the world on here

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Didn’t even look. I forget there are folks from all over the world on here

Just like most the kids here will not know Brno for firearms manufacture- but have probably heard of CZ.

 

[atimen]

Thanks everyone for the advice, so I'll try to carefully remove the aluminum deposit. Otherwise, in the Czech Republic, which is in the very center of Europe, the city of Brno has a tradition in the manufacture of weapons for many decades a typically Czech gun brand is CZ and recently, if I'm not mistaken, she bought an American Colt

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Hello everyone,
Can I ask you for your opinion on whether this oem cylinder on the 044 12mm pin can be salvaged? I've been trying to manually remove the grooves from the stuck piston for about 4 hours now, I got a new oem piston but I don't know if it makes sense to continue or if I should just get a meteor cylinder, for example, I don't know if it's worth looking for an oem cylinder for about 200 usd, before the intake elbow broke, the saw was running like new.

thanks for any recommendations.

i like 044 posts. hope the project goes well for you! i got one on my bench, too....

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Looks to still be some transfer (darker areas) around the port- that needs to go away.
Then if you can feel any grooves that will catch a fingernail or small pick in the clean cylinder plating- it might not be so good.
Split mandrel and emery cloth of various grades seems to be a simple low cost and fairly safe way of removing transfer.

On a side note- I own a very nice .22lr that was built in Brno in 1954.

i have the .22 rifle my Uncle used in HS rotc/drill.... built in 20 or 30s'...

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Didn’t even look. I forget there are folks from all over the world on here

i seen one last nite. Want To Sell. 044. and in Hungary. and if i read it right... $425 includes shipping

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Looks to still be some transfer (darker areas) around the port- that needs to go away.
Then if you can feel any grooves that will catch a fingernail or small pick in the clean cylinder plating- it might not be so good.
Split mandrel and emery cloth of various grades seems to be a simple low cost and fairly safe way of removing transfer.

On a side note- I own a very nice .22lr that was built in Brno in 1954.

i wouldn't use anything drill mounted per se, for such... unless close to bore diameter. i would do it by hand. cupped. i have done more than a couple engines needing new rings, v8-type, 4-cyl Model A... with some 600 grit and some gasoline. and them some LT until clean enuff to eat off. deglazed and a clean bore the rings seated up nicely! i think small mandrel mounted arbor would be too easy to induce further out of roundness...

just an mo

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

i wouldn't use anything drill mounted per se, for such... unless close to bore diameter. i would do it by hand. cupped. i have done more than a couple engines needing new rings, v8-type, 4-cyl Model A... with some 600 grit and some gasoline. and them some LT until clean enuff to eat off. i think small mandrel mounted arbor would be too easy to induce further out of roundness...

just imo

You would be doing well to out of round a cylinder using a split mandrel method- you would have to remove plating to do so and the mandrel does not contact the cylinder- the only pressure on the surface is the wound emery cloth and rotational force.
Three stone cylinder hone- then you can have problems happen fast- not with split mandrel loose wound cloth.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Agreed, the dark grey patches are aluminum transfer and all of that needs to come off the cylinder walls, the scratches themselves don`t really matter much as long as the cylinder has been well cleaned the piston and rings will ride over the scratches and eventually they will fill in with carbon. I am running vintage 87- 88 cylinders on a few of my test bed saws , they looked horriblily scratched and some actually were through the plating but still continue to run and cut wood just fine on just work duty saws, compression may be just a tad under new but still plenty to start easy and run steadily day in and out.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

engine building/rebuilding (all) once past the basics is in part an art. experience counts. the top cyl looks worn to me. hone would be iffy in all but the most skilled hands. i have seen some guys on the honing machine and they could cut 1/4 thou... and such. 1/2 walk in park. my 044 cyl had some alum topside. came out with solution and bore cleaned up nicely by hand.

thanks for the comments...

Agreed, I am running vintage 87- 88 cylinders on a few of my test bed saws , they looked horriblily scratched and some actually were through the plating but still continue to run and cut wood just fine on just work duty saws, compression may be just a tad under new but still plenty to start easy and run steadily day in and out.

Three stone cylinder hone- then you can have problems happen fast- not with split mandrel loose wound cloth.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I don`t use hones or acid on modern plated cylinders, hones are dangerous in chainsaw cylinders and acid can destroy a cylinder on its first application if the plating is scratched through or a pinhole is present the acid gets through under the plating and causes volcano like eruptions spalling the plating so bad the cylinder is useless. The split mandrel with wound on abrasive cloth or sandpaper is very effective and much used method of transfer removal for the masses., it seldom would ever wear through good plating but if the plating was already worn off it can and will cut into the aluminum cylinder walls.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

i wouldn't use anything drill mounted per se, for such... unless close to bore diameter. i would do it by hand. cupped. i have done more than a couple engines needing new rings, v8-type, 4-cyl Model A... with some 600 grit and some gasoline. and them some LT until clean enuff to eat off. deglazed and a clean bore the rings seated up nicely! i think small mandrel mounted arbor would be too easy to induce further out of roundness...

just an mo

I don`t use hones or acid on modern plated cylinders, hones are dangerous in chainsaw cylinders and acid can destroy a cylinder on its first application if the plating is scratched through or a pinhole is present the acid gets through under the plating and causes volcano like eruptions spalling the plating so bad the cylinder is useless. The split mandrel with wound on abrasive cloth or sandpaper is very effective and much used method of transfer removal for the masses., it seldom would ever wear through good plating but if the plating was already worn off it can and will cut into the aluminum cylinder walls.

and then we might end up with an out of round cyl. but if that thin, may be too worn topside. i wonder what the OP's exp is, but i see he is into an engine and it is apart... and appears to be no more damages from that...