Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Interesting.šŸ¤” Must be a structural wood fiber and composition thing. I set the rakers too low in conifer and it puts an abnormal load on the saw, and our Sitka Spruce (dispite being one of the toughest and strogest species of wood pound for pound in the world) is a soft wood.
Ever work with any Apitong? Hardest wood I've ever come across! Oak ain't got s**t on Apitong as far as density.
Get those saws ported by a good builder , and laugh at the low rakers šŸ‘
[/QUOTE]
The locust especially the honey and black is the stuff Pete calls, "the **** that wins"
20230226_182209.jpg
I tend to agree but old yellow pine will put a load on your saw in the summer when it's wet like nothing else when you go at it with chain setups for dry hardwoods. It might go at first but that bark does its damage here in the South. To the north has different terrain and soils. Mostly rock and clay up in Warren County. South of Lakehurst and the pines is all sand like beaches, powder fine. It's the worst in wind row black oak. The chain looks like your cutting metal constantly. You see it clearly near dusk bright while sparks coming out of the cut.
 
What elevation? I'm at 4k' and we only got about 1.5'. I'm a bit north of you too, sounds like the southern Sierras got hit a little worse.

5,600 feet. My mountain place is 7 miles away as the crow flies, and at 5,300 feet. Driving between the two you go over 6,400 feet. There are also two ways to come up from below, and not drive any higher than destination along the way. They get more snow higher up too, the ski resort has 13ā€™. The highway is closed except for residents, because people visiting the snow got stuck and plows couldnā€™t get through, and tow trucks couldnā€™t get to the stuck cars. Sounds highly frustrating for those trying to clear roads.
 
5,600 feet. My mountain place is 7 miles away as the crow flies, and at 5,300 feet. Driving between the two you go over 6,400 feet. There are also two ways to come up from below, and not drive any higher than destination along the way. They get more snow higher up too, the ski resort has 13ā€™. The highway is closed except for residents, because people visiting the snow got stuck and plows couldnā€™t get through, and tow trucks couldnā€™t get to the stuck cars. Sounds highly frustrating for those trying to clear roads.
The roads were getting a bit stupid here a couple days ago...accidents and stuck cars everywhere.

Some idiot was trying to tow a large gooseneck enclosed car hauler behind a dually, over the pass during the storm. I think he took our sketchy county road in order to get around the chain control on the highway...I don't think CHP or Caltrans would've let him through...regardless, he was apparently struggling on the lower slopes(a friend of mine was stuck following him for awhile,) but kept going up the hill anyway. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø He ended up getting jack-knifed just down the road from my place and blocked the whole road. Took the tow about 5 hours to get the road open.:dumb:
 
KK, I have OEM saws with AM top ends, and AM saws with OEM top ends, and if they are the same model, and you close your eyes and run them, you will not know the difference.

What I do NOT understand is how the big saw manufacturers have to comply with emissions and the Asian clone saw makers do not! Can anyone explain that to me??? I understood when they just sold you a box of parts to put together, but now they are selling complete running saws??? I'm completely baffled!
 
Nice, good to know. OEM parts fit clone saws also? Is that correct?
They started by selling boxes of parts stating that they were repair kits for old saws. You could build a complete saw by putting them all together, but there were no instructions included. I bought several MS440 and MS660 kits when they first came out and ran sales on them. One of the GTGs even had a competition that had to involve a non-OEM saw.

There were some problems with the early kits that have mostly been resolved, but they don't let you know what was fixed and when, and often just by parts from the lowest bidder. Numerous MS440s came with "throw away carbs", you could not fix them. Conversely, the carbs on the MS660s kits all worked well for me.

You have to go through them carefully, quality control is NOT their strong suit. Making sure all the cylinder ports are properly chamfered is essential.
 
What elevation? I'm at 4k' and we only got about 1.5'. I'm a bit north of you too, sounds like the southern Sierras got hit a little worse.
Interesting.šŸ¤” Must be a structural wood fiber and composition thing. I set the rakers too low in conifer and it puts an abnormal load on the saw, and our Sitka Spruce (dispite being one of the toughest and strogest species of wood pound for pound in the world) is a soft wood.
Ever work with any Apitong? Hardest wood I've ever come across! Oak ain't got s**t on Apitong as far as density.
Get those saws ported by a good builder , and laugh at the low rakers šŸ‘
[/QUOTE]
Please. My saws? šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£Your joking right? Have you ever see the water fall of waste that pours out of my 90's? Now I ain't got the world's most sausaged up race saw. However, any of my Stock or Modified 90's. have plenty of power to pull any chain in any species of wood you wanna throw at them! My pro modified stock 661 (built by a reputable Westcoast professional builder) pulls a burrried 42" bar with authority. You'd think you were on the end of an 880. Like you said earlier. "It ain't rocket science." šŸ˜‰

Also, it takes more than just a port job to hop a saw up another class in poweršŸ‘
 
KK, I have OEM saws with AM top ends, and AM saws with OEM top ends, and if they are the same model, and you close your eyes and run them, you will not know the difference.

What I do NOT understand is how the big saw manufacturers have to comply with emissions and the Asian clone saw makers do not! Can anyone explain that to me??? I understood when they just sold you a box of parts to put together, but now they are selling complete running saws??? I'm completely baffled!
If they are drop shipped to the US, then they technically arenā€™t playing by our rules cause we as consumers are ā€œknowinglyā€ buying a product made for elsewhere?
 
I have a secret to admit...my 880 is actually a clone parts kit...I don't always admit that, as it riles some people up. :laugh: I couldn't justify spending 088/880/881 money on a saw that rarely ever gets run. I've cut one big oak down with it, it otherwise just gets used for milling.

It's got an OEM oil pump and carb, other than that, it's all clone stuff. Also has a max-flow on it. The cylinder is the aftermarket cylinder that came with the kit, but it's not stock of course. I like it a lot, it's an impressive runner. I've done my best to burn it up, I don't treat it any different than the other saws and it keeps going.

The parts kits are the way to go IMO. That way you know everything is right. I also helped a couple of coworkers build some 440 kit saws. Everything looked pretty good other than the squish band on the head, but I fixed that for them. The chrome itself looked very nice, also the cases are really good. If I cracked a case on an OEM saw, I'd really look at one of the aftermarket sets.
šŸ¤”An 880 clone? That is unsatisfactory Sierra! Nope, that dog just ain't gonna hunt!
 
When I've hit stuff and fixed the chain the vibration came from bent cutters more so than uneven ones. I ran chain with square on one side and round on the other. Cutters lengths all over the map. Apparently it makes no difference as long as the chain feeds straight. My next tore up chain had bent cutters and nothing could fix it. It became parts for repair. Bent drivers, bent cutters, stretched links and all sorts of fun stuff on half that loop.
Milling is brutal but I never bend cutters like falling trees with spikes in them.

Look closer at the set and slope angles of each tooth to be sure
Round on one side and square on the other? šŸ¤” Interesting.
 
KK, I have OEM saws with AM top ends, and AM saws with OEM top ends, and if they are the same model, and you close your eyes and run them, you will not know the difference.

What I do NOT understand is how the big saw manufacturers have to comply with emissions and the Asian clone saw makers do not! Can anyone explain that to me??? I understood when they just sold you a box of parts to put together, but now they are selling complete running saws??? I'm completely baffled!
That's one of the biggest reasons I despise anything in the knock-off clone realm. The OEMs are the ones footing the bill for engineering, R&D, regulatory compliance efforts, etc... I couldn't care less if their performance matches the OEMs for not.

The clone producers can go piss off. šŸ¤
 
Get those saws ported by a good builder , and laugh at the low rakers šŸ‘
The locust especially the honey and black is the stuff Pete calls, "the **** that wins"
View attachment 1061332
I tend to agree but old yellow pine will put a load on your saw in the summer when it's wet like nothing else when you go at it with chain setups for dry hardwoods. It might go at first but that bark does its damage here in the South. To the north has different terrain and soils. Mostly rock and clay up in Warren County. South of Lakehurst and the pines is all sand like beaches, powder fine. It's the worst in wind row black oak. The chain looks like your cutting metal constantly. You see it clearly near dusk bright while sparks coming out of the cut.
[/QUOTE]
Lots of sandy soil here, that's why I run semi-chisel and not full chisel.
 
Have any pictures of it?
Have to get it out and take some. Found the plastic covers last week in a box. One of my ex-partners took apart a bunch of chainsaws and did zero with them. Yesterday I ran across what appears to be the clutch cover. It was complete at one time, now, I'm not sure.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top