McCulloch Chain Saws

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Guy near me is selling a running 250 along with a second parts saw for $100. I might have just missed the deal but he said he would call if it fell through.

Now back to my 1-61... How the heck do I get the flywheel and clutch off. I got the nuts off both sides without breaking anything. Service manual shows a three hole puller for the flywheel, just says "use a puller" for the clutch. Like a gear puller, or the threaded puller shown for the flywheel? I put a gear puller on the clutch side but it doesn't seem right. I feel like I am going to damage the bell.
Now as for the flywheel side, is this a puller I can source online, or can I make one? I bet Mark has the p/n and everything but if I can make one I will go that route. I have a three day weekend coming up and I was hoping to have everything stripped down so I could dunk it in the parts washer at work tomorrow.
 
I have used similar pullers but my garage "machine shop" is limited.
You can loosen the flywheel nut till flush with the end of the crank , the suspend the saw by the flywheel, use a brass drift or brass hammer and give the nut a SHARP rap . The flywheel will usually pop loose.
 
You can loosen the flywheel nut till flush with the end of the crank , the suspend the saw by the flywheel, use a brass drift or brass hammer and give the nut a SHARP rap . The flywheel will usually pop loose.
I was gunna suggest the same then I thought no look what I just done on the last clutch I had to remove:(

I lie I've done a few 10 series But still
 
Mid-July Upper Moutere Mac Report

Today I bucked a 9m (30') long log with the 610 which seems to only oil manually.

received_1312872269662638.jpeg

Then when I was out of fuel I turned to the 2-10 to finish off. It doesn't seem to be oiling at all (I only had to nick some rounds to separate them so poured a little oil directly onto the chain).
Of course the 2-10 sounded nastier and was much more fun to use.

IMG_20230714_161908951_HDR.jpg

Something with a longer bar would be nice - some big logs there that I had to walk past.

That is all.
 
Mark - on 600 Series saws that won't auto oil, the piston is likely stuck. Sometimes running the adjuster screw all the way down and back will free them up, but a more positive fix is to take the oiler assembly off and work the piston free.

20201016_075310.jpg

Breckinridge - I made a small plate that will attach to the flywheel with two 1/4-20 screws and allow me to use a gear puller. Some flywheels are stuck pretty good and you have to put a lot of tension on the puller and then give it a good rap with a hammer to pop them loose. Good idea to leave the nut on a few thread to prevent the flywheel from becoming a UFO when it comes off.

20230622_150647.jpg

The clutches will have two 10-24 tapped holes and you can use a puller in similar fashion to what I've shown for the flywheel above. As you can see, someone failed to properly torque the nut on this one and the keyway was wallowed out a bit.

20230714_065551.jpg

Mark
 
Mid-July Upper Moutere Mac Report

Today I bucked a 9m (30') long log with the 610 which seems to only oil manually.

View attachment 1097156

Then when I was out of fuel I turned to the 2-10 to finish off. It doesn't seem to be oiling at all (I only had to nick some rounds to separate them so poured a little oil directly onto the chain).
Of course the 2-10 sounded nastier and was much more fun to use.

View attachment 1097157

Something with a longer bar would be nice - some big logs there that I had to walk past.

That is all.
Is the manual pump (thumb pump) returning to position after you push it?
If so try filling the tank with a light oil ,like kerosene or diesel and pump it for a good while then see if it doesn't work.
Sometimes I shoot a little wd40 in the bar mount hole too incase there's a booger in there.
 
Guy near me is selling a running 250 along with a second parts saw for $100. I might have just missed the deal but he said he would call if it fell through.

Now back to my 1-61... How the heck do I get the flywheel and clutch off. I got the nuts off both sides without breaking anything. Service manual shows a three hole puller for the flywheel, just says "use a puller" for the clutch. Like a gear puller, or the threaded puller shown for the flywheel? I put a gear puller on the clutch side but it doesn't seem right. I feel like I am going to damage the bell.
Now as for the flywheel side, is this a puller I can source online, or can I make one? I bet Mark has the p/n and everything but if I can make one I will go that route. I have a three day weekend coming up and I was hoping to have everything stripped down so I could dunk it in the parts washer at work tomorrow.
There is a flywheel tool for the Mac saws, (works on other brands as well), that screws onto the end of the crankshaft. You just give the end of the nut a moderate whack with a hammer, while lightly prying between the saw and the flywheel. It works great. You can find them on epay or amazong for approximately $8.00. It beats the risk of breaking or distorting the end of the crankshaft using the puller.
 
What would you guys pay for a running 250 or Super 10-10? No practical need on my part, just for fun.
There is a flywheel tool for the Mac saws, (works on other brands as well), that screws onto the end of the crankshaft. You just give the end of the nut a moderate whack with a hammer, while lightly prying between the saw and the flywheel. It works great. You can find them on epay or amazong for approximately $8.00. It beats the risk of breaking or distorting the end of the crankshaft using the puller.
Does it look kinda like a steering wheel puller?
 
What would you guys pay for a running 250 or Super 10-10? No practical need on my part, just for fun.

Does it look kinda like a steering wheel puller?
No, it is basically an elongated nut that screws onto replace the regular flywheel nut. I don't have a picture of one, but just imagine 3 or 4 flywheel nuts welded together. This allows you to hammer on the crankshaft, without risk of damaging the starting dogs or other components.
 
1-61 is a gear drive, so you would need some kind of adapter to go from the straight, 19/32" diameter output shaft to a spline so you can use standard rim type sprockets. Maybe Vinny was just priming the pump since he had some spline adapters made...

You can always get a new chain to agree with your current set up. .404 chain is still pretty readily available but you may have to go beyond a local shop that only stocks premade loops for the saws they currently sell. If your sprocket is shot, I have a good supply of .404 8T sprockets for the gear drive saws available.

20230715_073042.jpg

Flywheel knockers & piston stops.

20230715_073909.jpg

Mark
 
I have a right hand pull 10-10 well I guess it's a 10-10 that has never had an automatic oiler. of course the tag is gone the serial numbers on the bottom start with 10 I looked through Acres. Can't find one that's only a manual oiler. Has an SDC carb.
 
I've been putting this 610 build off for well over a yr.now & I think it's high time I get 'er done.I ran into a bit of a problem while scrounging up parts.I was missing the 4 screws that hold the oil pump on,but found 2 in a stash that I bought last winter,then today while looking for other parts I found a cylinder & piston minus the crankshaft that I got from a member here about 5 yrs.ago (beetlejuice,don't know whatever happened to him) & it had the oil pump with all the screws on it.My next problem is I don't have the bolts & washers that hold the oil tank onto the engine.I'll look through my supply of bolts,but it doesn't look promising.Even the nice supply of hardware I just bought here doesn't have those 4 bolts.
 

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