My Uncle's health is failing rapidly. So If I have failed to answer a message or email I apologize. I am focused on other things. Thanks for understanding.
Max
Max
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Family 1st ,
Guy near me is selling a running 250 along with a second parts saw for $100. I might have just missed the deal but he said he would call if it fell through.
Now back to my 1-61... How the heck do I get the flywheel and clutch off. I got the nuts off both sides without breaking anything. Service manual shows a three hole puller for the flywheel, just says "use a puller" for the clutch. Like a gear puller, or the threaded puller shown for the flywheel? I put a gear puller on the clutch side but it doesn't seem right. I feel like I am going to damage the bell.
Now as for the flywheel side, is this a puller I can source online, or can I make one? I bet Mark has the p/n and everything but if I can make one I will go that route. I have a three day weekend coming up and I was hoping to have everything stripped down so I could dunk it in the parts washer at work tomorrow.
Now back to my 1-61... How the heck do I get the flywheel and clutch off. I got the nuts off both sides without breaking anything. Service manual shows a three hole puller for the flywheel, just says "use a puller" for the clutch. Like a gear puller, or the threaded puller shown for the flywheel? I put a gear puller on the clutch side but it doesn't seem right. I feel like I am going to damage the bell.
Now as for the flywheel side, is this a puller I can source online, or can I make one? I bet Mark has the p/n and everything but if I can make one I will go that route. I have a three day weekend coming up and I was hoping to have everything stripped down so I could dunk it in the parts washer at work tomorrow.
You can loosen the flywheel nut till flush with the end of the crank , the suspend the saw by the flywheel, use a brass drift or brass hammer and give the nut a SHARP rap . The flywheel will usually pop loose.
I was gunna suggest the same then I thought no look what I just done on the last clutch I had to remove
I lie I've done a few 10 series But still
Mid-July Upper Moutere Mac Report
Today I bucked a 9m (30') long log with the 610 which seems to only oil manually.
Then when I was out of fuel I turned to the 2-10 to finish off. It doesn't seem to be oiling at all (I only had to nick some rounds to separate them so poured a little oil directly onto the chain).
Of course the 2-10 sounded nastier and was much more fun to use.
Something with a longer bar would be nice - some big logs there that I had to walk past.
That is all.
Today I bucked a 9m (30') long log with the 610 which seems to only oil manually.
Then when I was out of fuel I turned to the 2-10 to finish off. It doesn't seem to be oiling at all (I only had to nick some rounds to separate them so poured a little oil directly onto the chain).
Of course the 2-10 sounded nastier and was much more fun to use.
Something with a longer bar would be nice - some big logs there that I had to walk past.
That is all.
Mark - on 600 Series saws that won't auto oil, the piston is likely stuck. Sometimes running the adjuster screw all the way down and back will free them up, but a more positive fix is to take the oiler assembly off and work the piston free.
Breckinridge - I made a small plate that will attach to the flywheel with two 1/4-20 screws and allow me to use a gear puller. Some flywheels are stuck pretty good and you have to put a lot of tension on the puller and then give it a good rap with a hammer to pop them loose. Good idea to leave the nut on a few thread to prevent the flywheel from becoming a UFO when it comes off.
The clutches will have two 10-24 tapped holes and you can use a puller in similar fashion to what I've shown for the flywheel above. As you can see, someone failed to properly torque the nut on this one and the keyway was wallowed out a bit.
Mark
Breckinridge - I made a small plate that will attach to the flywheel with two 1/4-20 screws and allow me to use a gear puller. Some flywheels are stuck pretty good and you have to put a lot of tension on the puller and then give it a good rap with a hammer to pop them loose. Good idea to leave the nut on a few thread to prevent the flywheel from becoming a UFO when it comes off.
The clutches will have two 10-24 tapped holes and you can use a puller in similar fashion to what I've shown for the flywheel above. As you can see, someone failed to properly torque the nut on this one and the keyway was wallowed out a bit.
Mark
Great ideas. Thank you, gentlemen.
Is the manual pump (thumb pump) returning to position after you push it?
If so try filling the tank with a light oil ,like kerosene or diesel and pump it for a good while then see if it doesn't work.
Sometimes I shoot a little wd40 in the bar mount hole too incase there's a booger in there.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
There is a flywheel tool for the Mac saws, (works on other brands as well), that screws onto the end of the crankshaft. You just give the end of the nut a moderate whack with a hammer, while lightly prying between the saw and the flywheel. It works great. You can find them on epay or amazong for approximately $8.00. It beats the risk of breaking or distorting the end of the crankshaft using the puller.
What would you guys pay for a running 250 or Super 10-10? No practical need on my part, just for fun.
Does it look kinda like a steering wheel puller?
A runner 250 is 50nz perhaps 100 just not fetching anything really. The 10-10 100 bucks too. So 60usd for each around here but really goes for what someone will pay at the end of day.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
No, it is basically an elongated nut that screws onto replace the regular flywheel nut. I don't have a picture of one, but just imagine 3 or 4 flywheel nuts welded together. This allows you to hammer on the crankshaft, without risk of damaging the starting dogs or other components.
New sprocket and chain. Possibly a bar also depending on the groove width and sprocket tip or not. Thats it really. Match up the gear and bar to the pitch and gauge of the chaiin.
1-61 is a gear drive, so you would need some kind of adapter to go from the straight, 19/32" diameter output shaft to a spline so you can use standard rim type sprockets. Maybe Vinny was just priming the pump since he had some spline adapters made...
You can always get a new chain to agree with your current set up. .404 chain is still pretty readily available but you may have to go beyond a local shop that only stocks premade loops for the saws they currently sell. If your sprocket is shot, I have a good supply of .404 8T sprockets for the gear drive saws available.
Flywheel knockers & piston stops.
Mark
You can always get a new chain to agree with your current set up. .404 chain is still pretty readily available but you may have to go beyond a local shop that only stocks premade loops for the saws they currently sell. If your sprocket is shot, I have a good supply of .404 8T sprockets for the gear drive saws available.
Flywheel knockers & piston stops.
Mark
Thanks Mark. When I get a shopping list together I will hit you up for a sprocket. Can I match this bar pattern anywhere, or would I be looking at modifying something? What are the chances someone has a 62dl loop of 1/2" laying around?
Razor6niner
ArboristSite Lurker
I have a right hand pull 10-10 well I guess it's a 10-10 that has never had an automatic oiler. of course the tag is gone the serial numbers on the bottom start with 10 I looked through Acres. Can't find one that's only a manual oiler. Has an SDC carb.
I've been putting this 610 build off for well over a yr.now & I think it's high time I get 'er done.I ran into a bit of a problem while scrounging up parts.I was missing the 4 screws that hold the oil pump on,but found 2 in a stash that I bought last winter,then today while looking for other parts I found a cylinder & piston minus the crankshaft that I got from a member here about 5 yrs.ago (beetlejuice,don't know whatever happened to him) & it had the oil pump with all the screws on it.My next problem is I don't have the bolts & washers that hold the oil tank onto the engine.I'll look through my supply of bolts,but it doesn't look promising.Even the nice supply of hardware I just bought here doesn't have those 4 bolts.
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