How many of you chainsaw users have heated shops...

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wdchuck

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19* here while I finished working on the family van and was putting away all the tools, inside the shop it was still decent at 34*, unheated, but its built into a hill on two sides.
Had to put the beer on the outside windowsill to get it chilled enough, but had to stand on some cardboard to keep the little piggies from getting goosebumps,

Anyways, how many heat theirs and what is the average temp you maintain during the frozen months?

How do you heat it?
 
All major projects are done in our main farm shop. It is kept at 55F when no work is being done and at 65-70F when working. There does not need to be any chance of the bathroom freezing up. It is not all that tough to heat but the 16ft high ceiling does allow pose a bit of a challenge.

Bill
 
19* here while I finished working on the family van and was putting away all the tools, inside the shop it was still decent at 34*, unheated, but its built into a hill on two sides.
Had to put the beer on the outside windowsill to get it chilled enough, but had to stand on some cardboard to keep the little piggies from getting goosebumps,

Anyways, how many heat theirs and what is the average temp you maintain during the frozen months?

How do you heat it?

If you are a chainsaw user, why dont you atleast heat it with wood? BTW, mine is heated with LP, keep it at 45 (the lowest the thermo will go) The farm shop is heated with wood, no water or anything so when i work in there I just throw some wood in and come back when its nice and warm
 
Only when I turn it on... damn... 42 this morning. How's a guy supposed to cure epoxy primer??? needs 8 hours at 70F...
 
We built a new house and the old farm house got turned into a shop / storage. Oil furnace so keep it at 40 so pipes don't freeze. Woodstove in main area I stoke up when working in there.
 
I'm tinkering with the idea of welding up a duplicate of the F/A woodfurnace that's in the house, but buying some of the special parts from the manufacurer;
fan, bi-metal damper, door. The rest is pretty straight forward, and getting the steel brand new at salvage price makes it reasonably inexpensive.

The bigger issue is coming up with the extra wood each season to keep the 2000sq/ft shop reasonably warm. It's two story, but it's the main floor where all the power equipment is worked on, upstairs is the wood shop, not much going on there when it's below freezing.
 
I'm tinkering with the idea of welding up a duplicate of the F/A woodfurnace that's in the house, but buying some of the special parts from the manufacurer;
fan, bi-metal damper, door. The rest is pretty straight forward, and getting the steel brand new at salvage price makes it reasonably inexpensive.

The bigger issue is coming up with the extra wood each season to keep the 2000sq/ft shop reasonably warm. It's two story, but it's the main floor where all the power equipment is worked on, upstairs is the wood shop, not much going on there when it's below freezing.


well here is what my idea would be, most of us only have a couple places that we actually work on stuff, so why not run the duct work to those places or near the places we work only, thus having the heat right near us...who cares if the rest of the shop is cold if you are warm. Provides instant heat to us and keeps the wood to a minimum
 
I've got a wood stove (what else?) in my shop, shops not real big - just 24 x24 so I can keep it very comfortable in there. I can usually work in a t-shirt unless the temp drops below about 15* then you'll need a sweat shirt or sweater. I've never checked the temp with a thermometer though.
 
I have a 25x30 barn that I have insulated and I run a salamander in there when I am tinkering around. It's easy to keep it nice and warm with that thing but it's loud. I usually have earplugs in.

Ian
 
I have a 24' X 40' shop that I heat with wood. During the coldest months we are -0 outside, I am lucky to get it to about 40 inside, good enough to work in for me.
 
Heck yes I heat mine...

I tried opening the door to let some heat in but that doesn't work ;)

This strange white stuff stops the heat from coming in the door :confused:

So I just send the dog out to clear it for me :clap:

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Of course I still need to teach him how to use the snowblower..

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The shop stays at ambient until I need the warmth when working. It is a three car garage with one stall partitioned and insulated (haven't got the double man door in yet so most of the heat goes out the doorway into the other two stalls. It's tough to heat up anything at -30°C but I can manage to take the chill off of the tools anyway, the tool box is right next to the wood stove.

The wood stove is what I think is an old coal burner, vertical cylinder style with a shaker grating in the bottom and a cooking hole on the flat top. It needs a rebuild as there are too many gaps and no more seals so it breathes way too much to conserve wood. It used to be in the house until we installed the Regency a few years ago.

Last night it was -20°C and I needed to put on the snow tires (why do I always wait until it's cold and there's already snow on the ground??). I fired around 4:30 and was working comfortably by 6:00. Beer on the cold side so it didn't get warm :cheers:
 
I have a woodstove in the shop.
It's an extra 2 car garage that's insulated.
I only heat it while I'm working, but it rarely gets below 40 inside.
I have a NG furnace in there that I use once in a while when I just need a quick warm up.
But usually I just start a fire and wait 30 min and then it's 60*+ when I come back.

It's a sheetmetal unit with a decent fan on the back that was sold from sears at one time I believe.
I got it for free so I'm not complaining.

It looks like this.
 
ANy of you guys have problems with condensation on tools or other rustables, with heating only when you are working in the shop?
 

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