Very nice design and workmanship.
I am adding this note about anti vibe mount because this thread will be found by others in future searches.
This is pasted from website notes.
ENGINE VIBRATION MOUNTS
-Just using a layer of sheet rubber under the engine does not do much. It is not soft enough to isolate well, the mounting bolts compress on the rubber and don't tighten as metal to metal, and the bolts vibrate loose,
-I have used many of these small mounts from Grainger, 2NPG8, about $6 each. I don't know the original manufacturer.
-These mounts have a metal sleeve through the center, around the bolt, so the bolts tighten metal on metal and can be torqued to stay tight. There is still positive retention of the motor in the upward direction due to the large metal washer on the bottom side.
-Engine mounts are often simple holes in the engine base to use 3/8 inch bolts onto a flat plate or angle structure. To use these mounts in an existing structure, drill a .79 inch diameter hole through the mounting surface (up to 3/8 thick). Deburr the top and bottom corners. Raise the engine about 3/8 inch, install the mount into the hole from the top. The donut washer goes on the bottom, then a flat tail washer underneath. A longer 3/8 bolt goes through engine base, through the vibration isolator and tail washer, and has a nut on the bottom. The bolt tightens metal to metal on the center steel tube, and proper tension is developed.
-The mount is a bit heavy for good isolation of a light load, The maximum axial load is 130 lbs per mount. The optimum axial load for good vibration isolation would be about 50-100 lbs on each isolator. However, this is the smallest one Grainger has in this style, and it does certainly help.
-I have used 4 under my engine package, then 3 more from the frame of engine/tank/hydraulics package to the frame of the trailer. I have also used on small hydraulic power units, and in some lawn and garden tractor applications.
-The design could be copied using a short length of steel tubing inside a rubber hose or tube. There should be rubber around the tube to prevent the steel tube contacting the inside of the hole through the frame. Metal to metal contact there would somewhat defeat the point of rubber mounting.
-These work really well to reduce structure born vibration noise, and prevent stress cracking of the mount structure.
I am adding this note about anti vibe mount because this thread will be found by others in future searches.
This is pasted from website notes.
ENGINE VIBRATION MOUNTS
-Just using a layer of sheet rubber under the engine does not do much. It is not soft enough to isolate well, the mounting bolts compress on the rubber and don't tighten as metal to metal, and the bolts vibrate loose,
-I have used many of these small mounts from Grainger, 2NPG8, about $6 each. I don't know the original manufacturer.
-These mounts have a metal sleeve through the center, around the bolt, so the bolts tighten metal on metal and can be torqued to stay tight. There is still positive retention of the motor in the upward direction due to the large metal washer on the bottom side.
-Engine mounts are often simple holes in the engine base to use 3/8 inch bolts onto a flat plate or angle structure. To use these mounts in an existing structure, drill a .79 inch diameter hole through the mounting surface (up to 3/8 thick). Deburr the top and bottom corners. Raise the engine about 3/8 inch, install the mount into the hole from the top. The donut washer goes on the bottom, then a flat tail washer underneath. A longer 3/8 bolt goes through engine base, through the vibration isolator and tail washer, and has a nut on the bottom. The bolt tightens metal to metal on the center steel tube, and proper tension is developed.
-The mount is a bit heavy for good isolation of a light load, The maximum axial load is 130 lbs per mount. The optimum axial load for good vibration isolation would be about 50-100 lbs on each isolator. However, this is the smallest one Grainger has in this style, and it does certainly help.
-I have used 4 under my engine package, then 3 more from the frame of engine/tank/hydraulics package to the frame of the trailer. I have also used on small hydraulic power units, and in some lawn and garden tractor applications.
-The design could be copied using a short length of steel tubing inside a rubber hose or tube. There should be rubber around the tube to prevent the steel tube contacting the inside of the hole through the frame. Metal to metal contact there would somewhat defeat the point of rubber mounting.
-These work really well to reduce structure born vibration noise, and prevent stress cracking of the mount structure.
