Homelite Super 2 oiler

I have one of the earlier 2's model 10521a. My problem all started with cleaning the debris from the fins and generally around the saw. Had motor out of frame to do this. Somehow oil tank was cracked. Replaced tank and now oiler does not work. Also saw is smoking like all get out. I believe oil going into engine instead of to the chain. I love this saw and have taken care of it, storing, cleaning, etc. If I had to do over I would have never tried to clean it that good. Anyway can anyone tell me what and how to do the correction. All help would be greatly appreciated.

leftfour

Look inside the old tank

Inside the old oil tank will be the duck bill valve and the adapter that fit it to the hose. That was a reed valve engine and used the pulse from the crankcase to oil the chain. without the valve the suction pulls the chain oil into the case and burns it

PEST is right on. You may try searching for "XL Oiler" or "Super 2 Oiler" as there are previous posts that talk about the exact same problem.

Dan

super 2 oiler

Thanks for the quick answer. When I replaced the oil tank I did check the lines and put them back the same way. My original tank did not have a fitting on the line but the replacement tank(used) had that fitting on it. Using your instructions for the valve I put it on the line. Cleaned off the spark plug and purged the oil from the engine -- replaced spark plug -- started her up and oil still comes thru engine no oil to bar. What will the next step I need to do next. Thanks again.

Is it possible for you to post a pic? Reason I ask is there were multiple pump types used on these saws. The ones I'm familiar with use a diaphram pump on the clutch side. These have 3 screws that retain the cover. On these, if the diaphram is cracked, or if the plunger rod or the housing are worn, oil can get into the engine and no oil will go to the bar. Its just a BIG coincidence for this to happen at the same time you happen to change oil tanks.

Dan

super 2 oiler

Ok -- I dont have time today but I will go look and see what I see -- I believe I will have to take the motor out of the frame, but no problem it has to come out anyway. After that if I can figure out the posting thing I'll send pictures with next post. Thanks for your help. Bye the way -- Since the bar oil is getting to the engine then oil tank to motor part of this puzzle is OK, I guess. THANKS

super 2 oiler

lesorubcheek said:

Is it possible for you to post a pic? Reason I ask is there were multiple pump types used on these saws. The ones I'm familiar with use a diaphram pump on the clutch side. These have 3 screws that retain the cover. On these, if the diaphram is cracked, or if the plunger rod or the housing are worn, oil can get into the engine and no oil will go to the bar. Its just a BIG coincidence for this to happen at the same time you happen to change oil tanks.

Dan

Click to expand...

Well I finally got the pictures I hope they come through. In taking this thing apart I dont see anything that could be or hide a pump. BUT this little sleeve fell off the saw from somewhere -- I sent a picture and I sure didnt see where it might go back. Thanks

Well I cant get the pictures here but maybe me telling you about the sleeve will help. It looks like it is made of brass 3/8 inch long and 1/8 inch diameter.
When my daughter comes by(??????) maybe she can help her old father figure out the pics.

I think I can email the pics to you if you give me the ok

Most likely

Most likely the little sleeve is the duck bill. It looks like an 8 mm rubber cap with the end squashed. I have seen them in red, white, green and blue

Yes need pics

Please post the pics

super 2 oiler

PEST said:

Most likely the little sleeve is the duck bill. It looks like an 8 mm rubber cap with the end squashed. I have seen them in red, white, green and blue

Click to expand...

the sleeve is made of medal and it is not rubber. this thing is totally round and looks more like a roller bearing but has a hole that a 22 or 24 gauge wire fits through. I have sort of tried but i am going back to mess with it View attachment 40274 well i have tried this we will see it it is there -(picture)

super 2 oiler

ok -- I have firgured it out here are the picsView attachment 40275

View attachment 40276

View attachment 40277

View attachment 40278

I hope this helps

It's fairly simple

The metal piece slides into the hose in the oil tank about half way, the rubber nipple slides onto the remaining exposed metal piece, this pressurizes the oil tank and pushes oil out to the bar. Sounds like you may have lost the rubber nipple, look in the bottom of the oil tank, and remember that the metal piece and nipple must be removed and replaced when removing or inserting the hoses into the tank.

jomoco

Noel

I think you probably just pulled the hose out of the old tank not knowing about the duckbill valve. It will be in the bottom of the tank somewhere stuck to the inside. You can take some kero or solvent and shke up the tank with the cap on fingers covering the holes and them pour the kero out through a screened funnel to catch the little rubber valve.It is pretty small so pour slowly

super 2 oiler

jomoco said:

The metal piece slides into the hose in the oil tank about half way, the rubber nipple slides onto the remaining exposed metal piece, this pressurizes the oil tank and pushes oil out to the bar. Sounds like you may have lost the rubber nipple, look in the bottom of the oil tank, and remember that the metal piece and nipple must be removed and replaced when removing or inserting the hoses into the tank.

jomoco

Click to expand...

There are two lines in the oil tank -- one has the oil pickup on it the other is the short one -- that originally (i thought) had nothing on it. But the replacement tank had a duck valve and fitting on it. I put that valve on the line. Since the old tank had a hole in it that is where this sleeve might have come out of. I am thinking this sleeve fits in the short line (pressure) but would the duck valve be the same thing or am i totally lost. Now if the duck valve does replace this sleeve and nipple and I still get oil thru engine what is still wrong. Thanks I really appreciate the patience and help you are all trying to give me.

In this pic here there is a tube running from the crancase to the bar oiler nipple, is this how you are running it or did you do this to keep debris out of it?

It takes a while to clear the oil out of the crankcase

The long hose should have a filter on it. The short hose should have the small metal piece in it halfway with the rubber nipple on the other half of the metal piece.

It will take a while to burn off all the bar oil in the crank case, be patient and don't let it idle while burning it off or you'll foul the plug.

jomoco

Yes

I forgot to mention I usually remove the plug and clean the pressure line using carb cleaner sprayed into the line to flush the hose back to the crankcase then tip the engine onto the cylinder and roll the engine over slowly by the flywheel the let the oil and carn cleaner run out. The rubber nipple is what Homelite used to list as valve, duckbill you should be able ro see it looking inside the oil tank with a penlight where the pressure line enters the tank

super 2 oiler

The only lines i changed was the one line from the crankcase to the top of the replacement oil tank with the duck valve placed on this line. I used the same line from the old tank for the oil pickup line. All other lines are untouched. Thanks

I had several that I tried to just burn off the oil by running it out many years ago when those saws were everywhere and they stuck the rings burning off the chain oil. The engine is a little tedious to remove the piston for ring cleaning

The whole saw is tedious to work on

He's right

It sure looks like you have the hose hooked up direct I didn't look at the pics till now.