How Too Start Your Chainsaw

Hi There, I noticed that in this forum there is a lot of discussion about how best to start your saw. The answer is to start it the way that is best for you that feels the safest, and never mind how safe it looks when someone else does it.
As for me I use the drop start with no valve, no matter the size of the saw- V8 hotsaws excluded. Now dont get me wrong, it's not a Macho thing, cause I,m just a sawed off 5'7" woodtick. This is the way I was taught in the woods on Van. Is. B.C. and have used it for 20 continual years in the woods, with no mishaps.
If I was righthanded, I couldnt do this. A lefthanded operator, generaly speaking, has more saw stamina than his righthanded friends, because he/she is holding the heaviest part of the saw with the strongest side of the body, although I have seen some lefties, and righties, get it all turned around and drop start with the right hand on the fore handle and the saw turned another 180 degrees with the blade ( bar) close to the thigh ( bad news).
I was showing off my 088W to an arborist friend of mine yesterday and told him to crank it up, so he just did the yo-yo start with his right hand on the rear handle and lunged the saw ahead with his left. his 3 ft. arms came in handy for this, but it looked too wild for me.
I find drop starting is an uncool thing to do when using a long bar, but then again, I am built closer to the ground.
In my mind, drop starting is perfectly safe and effective, since all the muscular system is used when it is done right, ie., back, shoulders, arms, legs stomach and upper body.
How many muscles do you think are used when doing the silly nutcracker start or the stirup start, however the stirup start works well when in thick brush or while using long bars.
This is just my opinion and not to be construed as the only way or safest way to effectively start your powersaw ( chainsaw).
The Chainsaw Isometricologist
Dr. Stihlhurling

I'm feelin' sorry for John...had to wait a long time to get an answer, didn't he!

Anyway, I usually start my saws by pullin' the rope. I don't even know what the nutcracker start is,(and it sounds painful) nor the yo-yo.

What's the yo-yo?

Nutcracker is holding rear handle of saw between your knees. It actually works well on some saws, but I've learned why they call it that if you start a big one.

I just do the ground (stirrup) start. I've never been comfortable with drop starting. I'm tall and have long arms, but on the skinny side.

John,
I was practicing pull starting my little toy Stihl chainsaw when the thing slipped outta my hand & flew up & hit the ceiling fan while it was running. What a mess.
Good thing I wasn't trying to start Roberts "Predator"....Rick

Creep on loggin'

A reminder ...
Chainsaw accidents

1. Kickback and contact with a moving saw chain. Contact with the saw chain resulted in 85% of all reported injuries. The most serious injuries resulted from kickback. Kickback results when the moving chain on the top corner of the tip of the bar contacts an object. The chain stalls and inertia is transferred back to the power unit. The whole saw then rotates back on the operator. Modern saws equipped with an inertial chain brake will stop the moving chain before it contacts the operator. A chain brake is a safety feature all operators should be provided.

2. Loss of balance and follow through are next on the list. Working in rough terrain, under extreme environmental conditions requires additional safety measures. Make sure clothes fit properly and do not have any straps, buckles, or tears which could catch on branches or equipment. Proper safety shoes, high top boots with cut resistant material, equipped with lug sole or caulks, should be used by woods workers.

3. Falling material is last on the list of accident causing agents. It is, however, the most lethal. Most deaths occur when a falling tree or limb strikes operators. Nationwide, the fatality rate is 80.6 per 100,000 workers as a result of falling objects in the forest products industry. Accident prevention begins before the tree is felled, by carefully inspecting the tree for hazards and noting dead limbs or other hazards in surrounding trees.

I am not too tall either. Drop start ala Gypo method on 20" bar or smaller. Anything bigger then that (or my Homelite ZIP) must be started on the ground.

I drop start my climbing saw usually, but on any of my other saws I put the rear handle behind my right knee, with my knee slightly bent. I hold the saw by the front handle with it tilted so the cord is looking straight up at me. This is a good way to start the saw because it puts the saw low enough to give you a full pull, and you'd be suprised how well the saw holds in behind your knee. This does not sound the same as the nut cracker, and I've never had the saw jump up and hit me thre. I learned this a an Arbormasters seminar.
Greg

I use 3 different starting methods for different size saws.
Climbing saw- Right hand on rear handle and throttle, pull with left hand
Small to medium size saw (026)- Left hand on front handle, pull with right hand. Throttle lock set to fast idle.
Large saws (bigger than an 026)- Set saw on ground, set throttle, stick right toe in rear handle, hold top handle with left hand, pull with right hand.

starting saw

I'm confussed on your drop saw method. i know my brother-in law was left handed and he hung on to the handle bar for his drop saw, but right handed as me i hold on to the handle as i have done for 20 years +

i really hate to sound like an instructor. when i give a class i moslty use the 372xp. the proper way to start a saw similar to it iswith your left hand on the loop handle)
make sure the chain brake is set (on)
press the decompression valve
set the choke
turn the ignition on
place the rear handle of the saw between your knees,firmly grasp the t-handle with your right hand, pull firmly on the starter cord untill the saw "pops".
repeat the process only this time push the choke in. when the saw starts, follow the starter cord back into the housing without letting go of the t-handle.

when starting on the groundwith your left hand on the loop handle, saw on the ground)
make sure the chain brake is set(on)
press the decompression valve
set the choke
turn the ignition on
place your right knee on top of the saw on top of the air filter box,firmly grasp the t-handle with your right hand,pull firmly on the starter cord untill the saw "pops".
repeat the process only this time push the choke in. when the saw starts,follow the starter cord into the housing without letting go of the t-handle.
two things to remember here. the decompression valve is for the
benefit of the saw(plastic starter parts) and when the saw does start to run, you must "crack" the throttle to bring the saw down from high RPMs to save the clutch.
stihl saws get similar instruction only the useing the master controll lever.
drop starts,cowboys,yo-yos or what ever else you see or hear are not safe. THINK SAFETY!!
this is only a brief narrative and not hands on instruction. marty

i have no clue were those frowns came from!!!!

I was a drop starter until Marty showed me the between your legs method. I'm a 6 foot 330 pound gorilla and don't need the help of gravity to get any of my saws running, I just didn't know any better until I met Marty.

I've seen the aftermath of the nutcracker starting method, makes everybody cross their legs in sympathy pain. Sorta like when your watching a baseball game and the pitcher catches the ball with his crotch But, anyway, I perfer to start my saws the drop method. Except for the old LUNKER saws, those get the stirrup method.
Josh

man that work against any youngun
hopes wouldnt it.

HI I like the drop start but I have sunk the dogs of my 044 into my left leg trying to drop start it when I was walkin up to a tree.I run a 42"cannon on one of my 084's but I have to stand on a stump to drop start that power plant. Seth

I have used the drop start method on most saws, up to and including my old homelite 17's and 5-20's. In fact, I have only one saw at present that the drop staart method doesn't work on...my new 395 HUsky, w/ 24" bar, but I think I could get by with it with an 18 or 20.

One real disadvantage to chainsaw world's method is that you'll have a lot of trouble in cold weather. You want to keep the trigger down for 20 seconds or so when it's cold, and you really do not want that chain brake locked.

Granted, I live in balmy north central MN, and the coldest morning I've ever had the poor sense to try to work in was about minus 40. What do the "real" men up in Canada do when it gets really cold? I'm talking about loggers like in the song:

"I see you are a logger by the way you stir you coffee with your thumb"

The heroine of the saga is bemoaning the loss of her beloved when he sets out for a day in the woods, forgetting his mackinaw, at 100 below.

how to start your chainsaw

Husky 288, I thought you would catch your skateboard in gear to start your 288!!! Rich.

Hi guys

With all my saws(335xp to 371xp) i drop start it with my left hand on on the trigger handle.

With my 395xp (34" and 37 "bar) i drop start it with my left hand on the black wrap handle .

Iam what you say vertically challenged at only 5'-6" and have know problem at all , but what works for one guy might not work for the next.

Do what feels safe for you, and what you have you have been doing all along , if it aint broke dont fix it.

Tried that nut cracker ooooooch .

Play safe

Lawrence

funny how most of the replies are from husky owners that drop start. husky gives you a free vhs tape when you buy it and it covers starting the saws. who tunes your carbs? a correctly tuned saw will start with little work. why yank your guts out and abuse the saw? oh, that's right, i already covered that," get educated". marty

I push start mine. Of course, you have to leave the brake off and I understand that that's dangerous, but it's so quick & easy.