Which saw to get?

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I'd like to get started on that right away.  What do you think I should include?
 
Glens when I asked you what type of saw to buy You told me to get a hack saw and get F..k out of here kid LOL :laugh: :laugh:
 
Since you put it that way, xander, I've got suspicions but don't know for sure.  I guess I hadn't so much expected advice but if that's what you've got in mind, give me what you've got and I'll consider it at face value regardless.

Maybe we should start a new thread so this poor newcomer doesn't mad or discouraged.
 
Yeah, Paul, but, well, look at you.&nbsp; What would <i>you</i> recommend for yourself?&nbsp; hahaha
 
Dario,

Take a look at: http://www.baileys-online.com/closeout-chainsaw.htm

Bailey's is a sponsor here and is a very reputable company.
Bailey’s® Model B45 is a 3hp saw for $209.00 USD and there would not be any taxes as long as your not located in Ca or TN.
The B45 is a great homeowner saw for the farm and ranch. The 45cc Nikasil coated cylinder produces 3hp of greatly reduced vibration free power. Saw has a primer and compression release for easy starting, automatic adjustable oiler, single pawl starter, double ring piston and chain brake. Weighs 12.6 lbs with bar and chain. Saws are pre-started and tested from the factory. Comes completely assembled with bar guard. Made in Germany. They have it listed for $209.

Ps. I don't know if B45 has any screws.
 
The local economy....heck the only local economy I care about is what stays in my pockets, the rest can go fend for themselves.

Supporting the local economy of which you speak....been doing that too(all my life) it's inevidable
 
WoodTick007 said:
... and there would not be any taxes as long as your not located in Ca or TN.
Or just about any state in the union that has a sales tax.&nbsp; For instance, Michigan has a "use tax" which was enacted in 1937 and is currently<blockquote>"6% due on the total price (including shipping and handling charges) of all taxable items brought into Michigan, purchases by mail from out-of-state retailers, and purchases made on the Internet.&nbsp; It applies to purchases made in foreign countries as well as other states."</blockquote>See http://www.michigan.gov/treasury/0,1607,7-121-1748_1904_1989-5781--,00.html for more.

There may be a site which lists the sale/use taxes for all states, but entering your home state and "use tax" (with quotes) at google will probably get you what you need to know.

Texas evidently does as well.

Glen
 
All 3 are good saws. For the prices listed I would choose the 353.

Glen, What got you wound up about nasty excise taxes? FWIW many states have an "occassional sales" exemption on sales taxes-this excuses the seller from collecting for a state he seldom sells in .The government thieves know that the purchaser isn't going to beg to pay a tax so occassional sales are exempt. Maybe not in MI- I don't know (or care).
 
I guess it's a couple of things combined.&nbsp; First, the ongoing notion that Internet sales are tax-free when they clearly are not, for most all of us.&nbsp; Second, these Internet sales which are being treated as tax-free by the buyers are not only depriving the local merchants of a certain amount of business, but also have the two-fold bad effect of draining funds from the local economy and causing the State to jack up the rates on the taxes which cannot be so eluded.&nbsp; I'm not a fan of taxation in general, but it's somewhat necessary and the best (least intrusive on privacy) is at the point of spending money as opposed to earning it (not to mention paying rent for our own property).

Sorry.

Glen
 
Don't lead me off the topic and I won't go there.

:<tt></tt>)
 
Like this?

When, as opposed to merely being hinted at, it's mentioned as a major factor and done so incorrectly or misleadingly, it needs to be discussed a little.

I guess that's the way I see it, anyway.

Glen
 
Really, things are not that specific in the real world. I believe a lot of things are tacitly understood. This reminds me of the semantics and technicalities thread that Nick started...Nickrosis not Nick from California.
 
Guys,

Don't worry about me getting scared...I may be new to this forum but I have been around others that had occassional, nasty (but friendly) banters ;).

Trimmmed...got yah ;) I kept the maple in the box and inspects it regularly...so far it is still the same as the time I received it...no cracks :D.

I see that this will be a tough choice. I have been saving my pennies for this saw and just don't want to make the wrong decision like I did before (bought a Poulan Pro).

WoodTick007...I will watch those eBay items, the model and price is definitely better than what I listed, I may get lucky :D.

Again, thanks a lot guys.
 
So you've already got some experience with Electrolux saws, hahaha!

I want to clarify that what I said about the sales/use tax does not pertain to private or "occasional" sales, but does to any sale for which a sales tax would normally be imposed.

I cannot endorse a product I have not owned or at least used for a reasonable length of time, so I cannot endorse any chainsaws other than Homelite or Stihl, and the first of those is out of the question any more.

I have poked, prodded, and occasionally used some Husky, Jonsered (currently the same as Husky, just different colors and cover shapes), and one Dolmar model.&nbsp; They all have some good points.&nbsp; I just so happen to prefer the combination of good points typically present on the Stihls.&nbsp; The chain tensioner is the best of the lot.&nbsp; I like the large bar nuts, and on the not-small models, the tool-less air filter access.&nbsp; At least in the size of saws you're looking at, Stihl uses an inboard clutch which makes the clutch cover <i>only</i> a clutch cover and greatly eases chain/sprocket maintenance.&nbsp; The recent tool-less fuel and oil caps are the best design currently out there.&nbsp; Their in-house bars and chain are the best available.

That's a start.

Anyway, of the saws you listed, the 350 would be out of consideration because of the plastic crankcase (I know that the MS250 I mentioned uses much plastic around that area too, but the entire engine is encased in metal on that design).&nbsp; The 55R would be out not because it's an old design, but that I don't like the design nearly as much as the changes since made in the areas I covered in an earlier thread.&nbsp; The 353 would be the one I'd buy, but it's got an outboard clutch which complicates the clutch cover by making it pull double-duty as a chain-brake housing; and the adjuster is not as good as I like.&nbsp; The air filtration <i>is</i> better than on the typical Stihl, though, and Huskies don't sound bad either.&nbsp; Though on all but the most recent Stihl models, the Huskies are typically smoother-running in hand at idle due to the suspension and weight, in the cut there's not much difference in vibration levels.&nbsp; But the Huskies do carry a tad more weight model-for-model than the Stihls for some reason though when spec-shopping that wouldn't be apparent.

I really didn't want to complicate your decision process because it's difficult enough when confined to one brand.&nbsp; Since it's happened, though, you might want to look into the Stihl MS270 as a viable option in that size/price range.

Really, though, the 353 would be a fine saw.

Glen
 
One other thing.&nbsp; Beware that the 359 is not the 359 anymore.&nbsp; What I mean is, you'd do well to avoid one with the green gas cap, or at least mention of "E-Tech" (or was it "E-Tech II") on the starter cover.&nbsp; Those saws have a catalytic exhaust and have been reported to be somewhat finicky.

But I still think they're too expensive...

Glen
 
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