some advice before I go to my local dealer in the morning.

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Dale.Z

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some advice before I go to my local dealer. Update on the 50cc Dolmar Saw.

Sorry guys if this is a dumb question but I just wanted some advice before I go to my local dealer in the morning.
Bought a Dolmar 5100 last fall so it’s still under warranty. Saw is a pleasure to use plenty of power for my needs starts up easy etc. no complaints until this morning.

As discussed in my previous post http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=109816 my cut / split firewood was to long for my new woodstove.
So I tried a method of trimming it to size by stacking the splits ends up along the side of my trailer.
SickSaw
Then I strapped them down tight and started up my saw. Once warmed up I turned the saw on its side and used the top edge of my trailer as a guide and as I walked along the trailer (18 feet) trimmed of the excess of the tops.
This worked pretty good until I got about ¾’s of the way done the saw seemed to begin to loose power and started to bog down until it just died. When I went to re-start it, it ran like crap and now will not idle on its own. Did all the basic things like checked the air-filter cleaned the plug but with no help.
Did I hose this saw up by running on its side for extended period of time?
Sorry, I warned you all this might have been a dumb question.

Thanks for the help.
 
Last edited:
Running on its side will not hose a saw. They're made for that. However, if it had an air leak and/or was running too lean, the extended cutting for the length of the trailer may have hosed it.
 
It should not hurt a 2 stroke engine to run on it's side. It doesn't seem that your strange trimming method should have overloaded the saw engine either. Maybe there is something minor wrong with he saw. Just tell the dealer the truth and see what comes of it.
 
typically depending on the carb design you can run a 2 cycle upside down.
with out seeing it you could have a bad tank vent that went bad from being exposed to fuel. you could have and air leak that only shows up when its on its side ( probably worst case). your fuel line might just be tangled up on the fuel cap lanyard and not sitting in the fuel.

just some ideas
 
Sorry guys if this is a dumb question but I just wanted some advice before I go to my local dealer in the morning.
Bought a Dolmar 5100 last fall so it’s still under warranty. Saw is a pleasure to use plenty of power for my needs starts up easy etc. no complaints until this morning.

As discussed in my previous post http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=109816 my cut / split firewood was to long for my new woodstove.
So I tried a method of trimming it to size by stacking the splits ends up along the side of my trailer.
SickSaw
Then I strapped them down tight and started up my saw. Once warmed up I turned the saw on its side and used the top edge of my trailer as a guide and as I walked along the trailer (18 feet) trimmed of the excess of the tops.
This worked pretty good until I got about ¾’s of the way done the saw seemed to begin to loose power and started to bog down until it just died. When I went to re-start it, it ran like crap and now will not idle on its own. Did all the basic things like checked the air-filter cleaned the plug but with no help.
Did I hose this saw up by running on its side for extended period of time?
Sorry, I warned you all this might have been a dumb question.

Thanks for the help.

So your saying you made about a 12FT cut non-stop at full throttle? How long did this one walk along side the trailer take?
 
Have you looked at the fuel filter? I don't think running the saw on it's side would cause a problem. (Milling places chainsaws on their sides for long periods of time with no problem.) If you had some gunk in the bottom of the tank for one reason or another, you might have plugged the filter.

Did the saw seem to get hot? I had a saw fry the electronics once when I was over working it.
 
Take out the fuel cap and have a look. Make sure the fuel pickup is moving around freely. Just an idea, that along with the others in this thread should get you started.

Let us know too what your dealer finds out.



Mr. HE:cool:
 
Take out the fuel cap and have a look. Make sure the fuel pickup is moving around freely. Just an idea, that along with the others in this thread should get you started.

Let us know too what your dealer finds out.



Mr. HE:cool:

+1 check the fuel!

7
 
I'm imagining a lot of air space between the chunks of wood.
Was the saw at max throttle in between cuts ?
 
Thanks for the help. I will post tomorrow what I find out. I didn’t think running it on its side would hurt it but that was the only thing out of the norm that I could think of.

DSCN1900.JPG
 
Thanks for the help. I will post tomorrow what I find out. I didn’t think running it on its side would hurt it but that was the only thing out of the norm that I could think of.

DSCN1900.JPG

A cut such as that is almost like milling, a long sustained full throttle cut. Very hard on any saw, especially a small high reving saw. Most milling saws are adjusted to run slower rpms so it doesn't overheat. I'm guessing by looking at that cut and how you described your saw the engine is toast. Just guessing, hopefully its not but all the indicators are there...
 
A cut such as that is almost like milling, a long sustained full throttle cut. Very hard on any saw, especially a small high reving saw. Most milling saws are adjusted to run slower rpms so it doesn't overheat. I'm guessing by looking at that cut and how you described your saw the engine is toast. Just guessing, hopefully its not but all the indicators are there...

i wouldnt compare it to milling that much.....milling you re ripping the grain rather than cross cutting, and alot of the time milling more than 60% of the bar is in the timber, not so here looking at the pics.

Serg
 
A cut such as that is almost like milling, a long sustained full throttle cut. Very hard on any saw, especially a small high reving saw. Most milling saws are adjusted to run slower rpms so it doesn't overheat. I'm guessing by looking at that cut and how you described your saw the engine is toast. Just guessing, hopefully its not but all the indicators are there...

Damm! Now the question is will my dumb ass operator error be covered under warranty. Man I feel sick!
 
Tommy....12' cutting rounds WOT could burn up a saw? I have to disagree, that should not have any neg effect unless there was a pre existing problem with the saw. jmho.........

RD
 
Tommy....12' cutting rounds WOT could burn up a saw? I have to disagree, that should not have any neg effect unless there was a pre existing problem with the saw. jmho.........

RD

My point about his long cut is how long was the saw running wide open, too long not good...
 
Last year I suffered a problem like this.. I was cutting slab wood in a big stack vertically. The saw got hot, and quit running.

I figured it was cooked and good too. It still turned by pulling the cord though, so I let it cool off. Then for kicks I pulled the muffler and the piston looked ok, but had a varnished look.

So for another kick, I raised the piston so the exhaust was blocked off, and then pulled the sparl plug. I filled the combustion chamber to over flowing with Seafoam and lightly replaced the spark plug.

Went to get a bite of lunch, and came back to find all sorts of brown gook bleeding out the exhaust..

I took the saw and dumped Seafoam into a waste oil container, and re-installed the same spark plug, and fired her up and it still runs today just fine.

Husky 242 xp.

What I think happened is I stuck the rings in a varnish, and lost compression.
 
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