Ripping chain comparisons...

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CaseyForrest

I am NOT a tree freak.
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OK, I tested three different chain styles on the log posted in the thread here.

First one was the Stihl Square ground chain I turned into Granberg. Only thing I have to say about that one is make sure your clearing cutters rakers are close to .020. This chain came out of the box at .035, and it was grabby as hell. Chattered all the way through the log. I could only take two cuts, and Id had enough. I would suggest using a chain thats as close to .020 to begin with, as it seems to make a world of difference.

Second was a ripping chain from Baileys. Modified to Granberg style with the scoring rakers taken down to .035. I didn't touch the clearing cutter rakers, and don't know what they are set at. This chain has been sharpened a few times prior to its transformation. It did cut faster, quite a bit, but at the cost of smoothness on the boards. It left a very rough surface.

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Third was a Lazer ripping chain. Untouched. It cut just as fast as the previous chain, but left the surface very smooth. Normal for what its done in the past.

MY conclusion.....Its not worth the time and effort to cut the tops off. At least for a 28" chain its not.
 
thanks for the info... so far I've been using Baileys ripping chain right out of the box, relatively smooth cuts, no problems as long as you stop and sharpen after say 5-8 runs down an 8 ft log. At this point, have no reason to change gears.
 
No kidding. He saved me a ton of work...okay, not a ton, but at least taking step backwards.

Thanks, Casey...you could be a chainsaw god if your saw was smaller...and not a Stihl. :chainsaw: :cheers:

Mark
 
ROFL!!

haha....If like to add this, however. My granberg modified chain may not be right. It was my first attempt, and I may have mucked something up, and not know it. I dont want to dismay anyone else from trying it. It does cut a hair bit faster.
 
That's an interesting looking cut. It appears the scoring cutters are slicing outside of the clearing cutters' kerf. I have just a couple questions

What angles did you put the scoring / clearing cuters?

What type of bar were you using and how old is it?

How tight was the chain?

What pitch / guage was this chain?

How old was the chain?

BTW - I'm not trying to grill you here, just collecting data.
 
aggiewoodbutchr said:
That's an interesting looking cut. It appears the scoring cutters are slicing outside of the clearing cutters' kerf. I have just a couple questions

What angles did you put the scoring / clearing cuters?

What type of bar were you using and how old is it?

How tight was the chain?

What pitch / guage was this chain?

How old was the chain?

BTW - I'm not trying to grill you here, just collecting data.

Scoring are at 20, clearing are at 0.

The bar and chain have been used together since new. Stihl ES bar. No slop in the rails.

By tightness Im assuming you mean the adjuster. No tighter then I run any other chain. No sag.

3/8 50 gauge.

I know its got to be something I did. It has to have something to do with the scoring cutters. Im just not sure what.
 
I would try reducing the angle on the scoring cutters to 5 or 10 degrees max. The bands of raised fibers not sheared off tells me they are pulling themselves out of the kerf.
 
Not necessarily. They give a range of 5 to 20 degrees on the scoring cutters and 0 to 5 on the clearing. In my head, I'm applying what I know about other wood cutting blades but it's just a gut feeling when it comes to ripping chain. I do know that on my resaw, less aggressive blades typically cut fast and smooth in softer woods such as pine, fir and even ash.
 

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