GB mill modifications

Some time back I posted my opinions on where my GB mill could be improved.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=34949&highlight=aggiemill

Post 3 & 4 specifically.

I finally got around to making a prototype out of some DHPE plastic I had laying around. This type of plastic is tough but if it proves to be too soft I'll remake it from aluminum. I'm trying to avoid steel a this time because I really only have woodworking tools.

Here's how it looked prior to modification.





Here's out I milled out the plastic block.

More pics

test fit- I drilled out and taped the bolt block for a larger 3/8" bolt.



Added some plumbing for the aux. oiler



I set it up this way because I didn't want to drill oil ports the nose just yet (the factory ports are in the wrong place for this setup). That would require drilling out the rivets and taking it apart completely to do it right. In the past my oiler just dribbled oil on the edge of the bar and it found it's way into the chain. That method worked adequately but it wasted a lot of oil. At least this setup delivers it closer to where it needs to be.





Ready to go. Now I'll I need is that big orange and white thing to put on the other end and I'll be back in business.

As I said, this is a prototype. I have a few more changes in mind that I may or may not do. I want to see how this works first. Feel free to critique what you see here and make suggestions if you like. I won't be offended.

Nice work aggie!!! The only things I can think of right now, is a "floating" end on the bolt made out of plastic also. A little more area of pressure on the bar than the bolt, and narrows down the pinching of the bar. Maybe some copper tubing on the end of youre oiler? Narrow down the area and put it a little ore exactly where it needs to be. Never run one, so I don't know better, just my .02
Andy

aggiewoodbutchr said:

Feel free to critique what you see here and make suggestions if you like. I won't be offended.

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Nice writeup aggie, lots of good pics, interesting mod, thanks. I don't own a GB, and can only look at your pics and try to envision things. Therefore, couldn't critique your mod even if I was so inclined. The proof of course is when you DO put that "orange and white thing" on the other end and slice up some wood. btw, I found that most woodworking tools with carbide bits will work fine machining aluminum in a pinch, with little damage to them. I have even run aluminum stock on my router table rounding over the edge of a strait piece, using a standard woodworking carbide round over bit. I'm sure the machinists out there are cringing... but it can be done.

woodshop said:

Nice writeup aggie, lots of good pics, interesting mod, thanks. I don't own a GB, and can only look at your pics and try to envision things. Therefore, couldn't critique your mod even if I was so inclined. The proof of course is when you DO put that "orange and white thing" on the other end and slice up some wood. btw, I found that most woodworking tools with carbide bits will work fine machining aluminum in a pinch, with little damage to them. I have even run aluminum stock on my router table rounding over the edge of a strait piece, using a standard woodworking carbide round over bit. I'm sure the machinists out there are cringing... but it can be done.

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Thanks. I would have used aluminum if I had any 1" stock laying around. I've made quite a few things myself from aluminim using the tools I have. Here's a folding support for my tablesaw.

sawinredneck said:

... "floating" end on the bolt made out of plastic also.
Andy

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Not a bad idea at all. Right now the end of the bolt is tapered to fit in a hole that's already in the nose of the bar. Something like this could distribute the pressure a bit. Thanks.

Really good slideshow. Very clear pics. Good explaination. A+, Aggie. Looks perfect to me.

Aggie, I noticed the same problem last time I used my mill.

LOL...your fix looks great. Im lazy, I doubled up a piece of the box my Dremel came in, and used it. You know, just like putting a couple napkins under the short leg of your kitchen table??

Thanks for the Pics Aggie. I hope my mill comes in before I leave for a couple months.

woodshop said:

Nice writeup aggie, lots of good pics, interesting mod, thanks. I don't own a GB, and can only look at your pics and try to envision things. Therefore, couldn't critique your mod even if I was so inclined. The proof of course is when you DO put that "orange and white thing" on the other end and slice up some wood. btw, I found that most woodworking tools with carbide bits will work fine machining aluminum in a pinch, with little damage to them. I have even run aluminum stock on my router table rounding over the edge of a strait piece, using a standard woodworking carbide round over bit. I'm sure the machinists out there are cringing... but it can be done.

Click to expand...

Carbide teeth are not needed and are in fact not as good as standard sharp HSS blades with a liberal rubbing of candle wax applied regularly. My BIL build ally boats up to about 50 ft long using all HSS blades and candle wax and gets a superb pro finish on all his edges and cuts.

Aggie, nice job on the CSM mod. By way of advice, I have done a lot of construction with all sorts of plastic including HDPE. Depending on how hot it gets you will find HDPE will creep, spread and loosen under pressure over time. If I were you I would ease off the pressure on the plastic when you are not using it and make sure you tighten it just before use. The thought of not remembering to tighten the end bolt(s) was one reason I went straight to steel pads on my CSM.

Cheers

BobL said:

Carbide teeth are not needed and are in fact not as good as standard sharp HSS blades with a liberal rubbing of candle wax applied regularly. My BIL build ally boats up to about 50 ft long using all HSS blades and candle wax and gets a superb pro finish on all his edges and cuts.

Aggie, nice job on the CSM mod. By way of advice, I have done a lot of construction with all sorts of plastic including HDPE. Depending on how hot it gets you will find HDPE will creep, spread and loosen under pressure over time. If I were you I would ease off the pressure on the plastic when you are not using it and make sure you tighten it just before use. The thought of not remembering to tighten the end bolt(s) was one reason I went straight to steel pads on my CSM.

Cheers

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Thanks for the tips. I used plastic because I had it on hand and it's easy to machine with the tools I have. Eventually I'll remake it from aluminum or steel.

Great thread Aggie. Very informative and well illustrated.

Hi Aggie, just been reading through some of your threads on milling, great stuff. Love the 72" monster.

I am in the process of designing a new mill to fit a 36" bar and am interested in mounting it at the powerhead in the GB style to give the mill more rigidity.

Was wondering if you could take some pics of how yours mounts to the powerhead when you have time? cheers.

martrix said:

Hi Aggie, just been reading through some of your threads on milling, great stuff. Love the 72" monster.

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+1 an absolute wealth of info.

martrix said:

I am in the process of designing a new mill to fit a 36" bar and am interested in mounting it at the powerhead in the GB style to give the mill more rigidity.

Was wondering if you could take some pics of how yours mounts to the powerhead when you have time? cheers.

Click to expand...

Martrix, you need to look in this post.http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=34949 (posts #3 and 4). His power head is mounted via the bar bolts/nuts by replacing the nuts with extended nuts (looks like a bit of hex bar with a threaded centre hole). It looks very solid and suitable for a heavy power head such as ours. I'm also seriously considering this type of mounting for my next mill.

Sure thing. I'll try to get some more up today.