Got a 044 project saw

Last Thursday afternoon I bought this saw. Stihl 044. Pictures are as I got it.




Paid $50 for it. Someone was selling it to get payment for work he had done for a guy. It looks like it has been sitting somewhere for quite a while in the weather and something has been dropped on it (bent handle bar, cracked top cover, cracked starter rewind cover, broken clutch cover, broken hand guard). The handle/tank assembly is twisted underneath, where the handle bar attaches to it – another result of whatever was dropped on it. I don’t have a compression tester, but I can hold the saw off the ground by the starter cord followed by a slow decent. Pulled the muffler cover and saw that the piston and cylinder walls look great. Pulled the spark plug and saw that there is some build up on top of the piston. The bar is done/finished. The drive rim is in great condition. I think the chain brake assembly needs looking into (aside from the broken hand guard). There was a little bit of gas in the tank and even though I knew it was old gas, I still tried a couple pulls to see if it would fire. It didn’t. I think a carb clean (and/or carb kit), and fresh fuel is all that is needed to get the motor running. I don’t think this saw has had much use. Right now it appears that most of the damage is cosmetic. I’ll find out more of course when I break it down. It wasn’t looked after, and of course something fell on it. To get it completely ready to cut wood safely will need more work. So, from the pictures and what info I have given…did I get ‘jacked/beat’? Or did I do okay?
I have already thought about getting a dual port muffler cover. The serial number starts with ‘125’ which tells me that a BB kit will not work on this saw because of the small wrist pin (10mm vs 12mm).

So, is there any tips, warnings, advice that y’all can or want to pass along before I tear into my project. Any tips on what to use to clean parts? I have been here on AS long enough to know that the 044 is a popular saw and lots of folks have rebuilt them. This will be my first project saw. I have a owner’s manual on it’s way from Stihl for free. I would like a IPL, anybody have one available? I’m not sure if I’ll need the service manual, or should I look into getting one?

This is the saw I wanted after I got my MS260, but the Olympyk 970 came along at a great deal. A newer, in better shape 044/440 would be nice, but this is the next best thing.

Kevin

I think you did good for $50. Start breaking it down and cleaning it up. I would start with some greased lightning, water and a scrub brush. There are a ton of parts around for those saws, so parts will not be an issue. Good luck and have fun.

Complete newbie so this comment may be useless, but I've spent alot of time on ebay recently and I'll tell you could probably get your money back just selling the rear handle and tank. So I think it was a good purchase. I would have bought it in a heartbeat.

Here are some pictures showing the twisted area where the handlebar attaches to the handle/tank assembly. Can it be fixed (handle/tank assembly)? Or just get a another one period.





Kevin

Just send me your address and I'll send you a $100 for it and save you all the trouble of having to work on it.Just think double yor money with no work.

Sounds like a great buy.

Was wondering about the BB kit.Is the only difference the piston pin size?
If so couldn't you maybe change out the connecting rod to the 12mm version?

Scooterbum said:

Just send me your address and I'll send you a $100 for it and save you all the trouble of having to work on it.Just think double yor money with no work.

Sounds like a great buy.

Was wondering about the BB kit.Is the only difference the piston pin size?
If so couldn't you maybe change out the connecting rod to the 12mm version?

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Nope, gonna keep it. Thanks anyway .

I don't know of any other differences regarding the BB kit. Gonna have a look at the Bailey's website and see what it says. And about changing the connecting rod, don't know about that. Hopefully someone with more wisdom can answer that - they know who they are .

Kevin

Post an email and I will send you an IPL. Great deal on the saw. Unless the handle bar is uncomfortable, I would leave it alone or bend it slightly. I love my 044, but it needs a slight rebuild of some kind. Mine is later so I will add the BB kit. Rods are not that easily changed in a press fit crank, so that is not really an option. Fix up a few of the cosmetics and carb issues and run it like you stold it, I think you did.

Changing the connecting rod not an option, it is factory installed on the crank shaft and unless you have the tools to do it, don't bother thinking about it. I am pretty sure you can put a newer style large-pin crankshaft in the old case, but if the old case and crank are in good shape I would leave them alone. As for the tank twist, remove the handle bar and the tank and check to see if the tank has any cracks at the twist. If not, a new handle bar about should fix that problem. If the tank has any cracks or leaks, or has been repaired with any plastic resin scrap it and get another. They are not worth repairing since any repair is always temporary, ther are plenty of used ones around, check with the sponsors here.

hautions11 said:

Post an email and I will send you an IPL. Great deal on the saw. Unless the handle bar is uncomfortable, I would leave it alone or bend it slightly. I love my 044, but it needs a slight rebuild of some kind. Mine is later so I will add the BB kit. Rods are not that easily changed in a press fit crank, so that is not really an option. Fix up a few of the cosmetics and carb issues and run it like you stold it, I think you did.

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Thanks a bunch for your IPL offer! An email will be on it's way.

The handlebar does bug me, so I'll probably get one from Bailey's.

So ya think I stole it? From the responses, I think I did to - for the price . The guy knew what a new 440 was worth, seems he just wanted to be rid of it.

Kevin

Dadatwins said:

Changing the connecting rod not an option, it is factory installed on the crank shaft and unless you have the tools to do it, don't bother thinking about it. I am pretty sure you can put a newer style large-pin crankshaft in the old case, but if the old case and crank are in good shape I would leave them alone. As for the tank twist, remove the handle bar and the tank and check to see if the tank has any cracks at the twist. If not, a new handle bar about should fix that problem. If the tank has any cracks or leaks, or has been repaired with any plastic resin scrap it and get another. They are not worth repairing since any repair is always temporary, ther are plenty of used ones around, check with the sponsors here.

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Thanks for that info. I think there has been some repair to the tank assembly. I can't wait to tear into the saw, but I got a 'honey-do' to look after and a couple other priorities in the next few days. But I'm sure I can find a few minutes here and there to start .

Kevin

Regarding any other differences other than the piston pin sizes, there doesn't seem to be any according to what I found at the Bailey's website. This is what is on their site: Fits saws (after serial number 29 382 283) with 12mm (.472") piston pins.

Kevin

Wonder if there is enough meat on the rod to open it up to 12mm?

Scooterbum said:

Wonder if there is enough meat on the rod to open it up to 12mm?

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I don't have enough experience in that area. I'll be leaving as is.

Kevin

Scooterbum said:

Wonder if there is enough meat on the rod to open it up to 12mm?

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Not from my experience... I sold an old 044 becuase I had one newer enough to put the 44 BB kit on. After I got the kit on it, it was stolen out of the back of my truck. I was very pizzed.....

I think you can swap cranks in the older crankcase. Might talk with Dean at WHS. He has, or at least had, a whole pile of 044/440 parts. I thought I heard Andy (lakeside) talk about a heavier duty crank in the bigger pin 44's.

I am on the hunt for a newer 440 with a burnt piston and cylinder with pristine plastic....

Handle and tank... But first, get the saw running

It's easy to straighten the tank. Use the wife's 1500 watt hair driver.. take a 2 foot length 3/4 inch copper pipe and crush it so it looks like the end of the handle bar... drill two hole and mount it the tank. This is your lever...

Heat the tank arm evenly, take your time... (it takes a while to get the heat though the plastic, and gently apply force in the direction you want it to move...

Once the tank is done.. make the handle fit - be careful NOT to pinch the tube or it's all over.

I've restored some of the most messed up tanks and handle you've ever seen..!
!

Freakingstang said:

I am on the hunt for a newer 440 with a burnt piston and cylinder with pristine plastic....

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Who isn't?????

Lakeside53 said:

Handle and tank... But first, get the saw running

It's easy to straighten the tank. Use the wife's 1500 watt hair driver.. take a 2 foot length 3/4 inch copper pipe and crush it so it looks like the end of the handle bar... drill two hole and mount it the tank. This is your lever...

Heat the tank arm evenly, take your time... (it takes a while to get the heat though the plastic, and gently apply force in the direction you want it to move...

Once the tank is done.. make the handle fit - be careful NOT to pinch the tube or it's all over.

I've restored some of the most messed up tanks and handle you've ever seen..!
!

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Thanks for that tip. I would have never thought of that. Once again, you da man . Got any tips on cleaning parts using a common cleaner? Dadatwins suggested Greased Lighting. How about Simple Green?

Kevin

KMB said:

Thanks for that tip. I would have never thought of that. Once again, you da man . Got any tips on cleaning parts using a common cleaner? Dadatwins suggested Greased Lighting. How about Simple Green?

Kevin

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You'll likely need something tougher than simple green. I use a purple cleaner like Castrol Super Clean diluted 4:1. I just dump I gallon in a 5 gallon bucket - lasts for months and works well even filthy.

Lakeside53 said:

You'll likely need something tougher than simple green. I use a purple cleaner like Castrol Super Clean diluted 4:1. I just dump I gallon in a 5 gallon bucket - lasts for months and works well even filthy.

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What about the orange plastic. Is there a way to 'restore' the color? If that makes any sense.

Kevin

KMB said:

What about the orange plastic. Is there a way to 'restore' the color? If that makes any sense.

Kevin

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Only by buffing and "waxing"... Several trail bike poducts out here also.. there are a couple of AS threads on this - "search" will dig them up.