Narrow Kerf Bar and Chain Question

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Relichuntr

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Hey everybody. I just got a smoking deal on a very slightly used Husky 345 with 18" bar. $200, runs great used maybe once or twice. Like I need another saw! Question is it is .325 .050 gauge. Is this considered narrow kerf or do I have to get one of Bailey's Arbor Pro or Oregon Micro Lite bars? Did a search on this and couldn't really find a clear definition of narrow kerf bars and chains. Bailey's site says that a .325 .050 chain narrow kerf chain 20NK ( I think) will only work well with an Arbor pro bar, if the Husky bar is the same gauge, isn't that the same thing? . Hope this makes sense. Basically I want something fast to go on the saw instead of the safety chain. Thanks for any help.
 
Bar Number

Thanks for the reply scottr. I'll get the # off of it this weekend and post again. It's out in the shed and it's too cold to walk all the way out there tonight. I also thought getting one of the 16" bar and chain combos on special at Baileys in addition to the 18" stock. :D
 
Talked with a friend of mine who does tree work...

he says that that bar is not narrow kerf but is a regular .050 gauge. Most of the narrow kerf bars commercially available have a symbol on the bar that indicates it according to him. Must be the symbol on the Oregon bars I was looking at online earlier on the Microlite series. So I may try out the Oregon bar this coming week if I can find one locally. If not I'll just get one online. Just gotta find time to go cut some wood, it's been a while.:rockn:
 
??

it seems that .325 cant be made to cut as fast as 3/8 - what is the reason for this? it would seem the narrow kerf could be made to cut much faster thu the same wood-is it chip removal that slows it down?
 
I called Bailey's to order a few things, including a new .325, .50 chain. The salesman told me the narrow kerf chain 20nk, is the right one and that .50 makes it narrow kerf. If the salesman was wrong, what indication will show me that the chain is not right for my bar? Will it not fit, be too loose, not cut right, wear wrong or what? (This is for the Dolmar, -its the standard Dolmar, Oregon 16", .325 bar that came with the saw).
 
Here is the deal with narrow kerf .325 pitch chain. Both WoodsmanPRO 20NK and Oregon/Husky 95VP chassis are the same as all other .325 pitch .050 guage chain, therefor they fit all bars that are .325 pitch x .050 guage. However, the top plate of the cutter not as wide as standard .325 pitch chain, therefor the kerf is smaller, which means your saw works less in the cut. When new, the chain will work on almost all laminated bars made, because the kerf is just wide enough to clear the thickness of the bars. However, as you file back the tapered cutter, it actually makes a smaller kerf, and binding becomes a major problem. So to remedy this problem, both ArborPRO and Oregon/Husky have made narrow kerf bars thinner that standard laminated bars. The three plates of steel are also much more flimsy because they are thinner, so the bars bend easily. Most people think the added power increase offsets the lightweight cutters and bars. Hope that clears up some things.
 
The only advantage ive seen with NK or microlite chain is on 40cc range saws, any 50cc + should handle std. .325" I feel its durability is worth it. The only saws Ive seen in the 50cc class that handle 3/8" better than .325" are the Dolmars. The 111 thru 115 and now the PS5100. All run excellent on 3/8" as I see that alot of AS members are finding out....

Scott
 
NBailey said:
Here is the deal with narrow kerf .325 pitch chain. Both WoodsmanPRO 20NK and Oregon/Husky 95VP chassis are the same as all other .325 pitch .050 guage chain, therefor they fit all bars that are .325 pitch x .050 guage. However, the top plate of the cutter not as wide as standard .325 pitch chain, therefor the kerf is smaller, which means your saw works less in the cut. When new, the chain will work on almost all laminated bars made, because the kerf is just wide enough to clear the thickness of the bars. However, as you file back the tapered cutter, it actually makes a smaller kerf, and binding becomes a major problem. So to remedy this problem, both ArborPRO and Oregon/Husky have made narrow kerf bars thinner that standard laminated bars. The three plates of steel are also much more flimsy because they are thinner, so the bars bend easily. Most people think the added power increase offsets the lightweight cutters and bars. Hope that clears up some things.
Click to expand...

What happened to the Narrow Kerf Stihl bars? How come they aren't in the catalog anymore?
 
NBailey said:
Here is the deal with narrow kerf .325 pitch chain. Both WoodsmanPRO 20NK and Oregon/Husky 95VP chassis are the same as all other .325 pitch .050 guage chain, therefor they fit all bars that are .325 pitch x .050 guage. However, the top plate of the cutter not as wide as standard .325 pitch chain, therefor the kerf is smaller, which means your saw works less in the cut. When new, the chain will work on almost all laminated bars made, because the kerf is just wide enough to clear the thickness of the bars. However, as you file back the tapered cutter, it actually makes a smaller kerf, and binding becomes a major problem. So to remedy this problem, both ArborPRO and Oregon/Husky have made narrow kerf bars thinner that standard laminated bars. ....
Click to expand...

That is true!

Husky names the 95VP H30, and Jonsered H30, btw......
 
We offered a narrow kerf .325 bar (ArborPro) for the Stihl 024/026 saws for about 2 years, but because the bar is thinner than a standard bar, and the stud shoulder thicknesses are not that consistant on those models, we had some bars that never clamped down tight enough. It was real close, but for the amount of calls we kept recieving, it became a headache. Many 024/MS 240 users really liked them though.
 
Standard .325 /.050 chain on narrow kerf bar?

This thread addressed the topic of running narrow kerf (VP, NK, etc.) chain on a standard bar, but I'm wondering if there would be any issues running a standard chain on a narrow kerf bar? (In my case a 16" Husky bar on a 346XP). I would of course loose the speed of the narrow kerf, but might this setup cause undo wear on the bar and/or drive sprocket? I've always run 95VP chain but my local saw shop doesn't carry it (but does carry a full chisel Forester AEI chain).

Finally, does a saw set up for a narrow kerf bar and chain have a different - that is, "narrow kerf" - drive sprocket?

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the site! :rockn: :rockn:

The sprocket is the same, no issue there.

I don't really know about the chain, but at least be sure to file off any "wire edges" on the bar before trying it. Try to put one on, and if it gets sufficient support for the chain chassis, you should be OK......
 
Last edited:
AsaphWhittlesey said:
This thread addressed the topic of running narrow kerf (VP, NK, etc.) chain on a standard bar, but I'm wondering if there would be any issues running a standard chain on a narrow kerf bar? (In my case a 16" Husky bar on a 346XP). I would of course loose the speed of the narrow kerf, but might this setup cause undo wear on the bar and/or drive sprocket? I've always run 95VP chain but my local saw shop doesn't carry it (but does carry a full chisel Forester AEI chain).

Finally, does a saw set up for a narrow kerf bar and chain have a different - that is, "narrow kerf" - drive sprocket?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

AW , I asked Oregon Engineer that same question and the answer was that for a homeowner situation it was ok . The drive sprockets are the same .
 

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