Narrow Kerf Bar and Chain Question

[Dubai Vol]

Lookingon the Bailey's site, I see narrow kerf .375 chain but no bars. What I'd like to find is a narrow rip chain (and bar) to use with my small Alaskan mill. Anybody have a source for such an animal?

 

[SawTroll]

Lookingon the Bailey's site, I see narrow kerf .375 chain but no bars. What I'd like to find is a narrow rip chain (and bar) to use with my small Alaskan mill. Anybody have a source for such an animal?

".375 NK" (3/8" lo pro NK) is a totally different issue.....:biggrinbounce2:

 

[ents]

This thread addressed the topic of running narrow kerf (VP, NK, etc.) chain on a standard bar, but I'm wondering if there would be any issues running a standard chain on a narrow kerf bar? (In my case a 16" Husky bar on a 346XP). I would of course loose the speed of the narrow kerf, but might this setup cause undo wear on the bar and/or drive sprocket? I've always run 95VP chain but my local saw shop doesn't carry it (but does carry a full chisel Forester AEI chain).


Thanks!

I'm running Stihl 23RM (full chisel, .325, .050) on my 353 (came with it from the dealer plus bought 2 more). It was an experiment but I'm not liking the results. Although it's only a 16" bar (I'm using it as a trim saw) the saw doesn't seem to pull the chain like the H30 (picked one up to see the defference). The H30 (95VP) just melts thru the limbs while the 23RM grabs it and chatters it's way thru . A lot of kick back with the limbing process (up cuts if you get that bar too far forward on the nose (easy to do with very bushy pine tree tops)). Bucking trunks out seems o.k. but still doesn't seem to have the h.p. (get rid of the cat muf may help the h.p. but for now I'm stuck with it). Can't really remark on the wear and tear since this is my first loop. I'll keep watching it tho.

 

[kioni]

Oregon 20lp

i`ve been running oregon 20lp on my husky 350 narrow kerf bars (18 and 15")for over a year now with no probs whatsoever ,a little bit more vibration but seems to be alot faster in the cut

 

[SawTroll]

I'm running Stihl 23RM (full chisel, .325, .050) on my 353 (came with it from the dealer plus bought 2 more). It was an experiment but I'm not liking the results. Although it's only a 16" bar (I'm using it as a trim saw) the saw doesn't seem to pull the chain like the H30 (picked one up to see the defference). The H30 (95VP) just melts thru the limbs while the 23RM grabs it and chatters it's way thru . A lot of kick back with the limbing process (up cuts if you get that bar too far forward on the nose (easy to do with very bushy pine tree tops)). Bucking trunks out seems o.k. but still doesn't seem to have the h.p. (get rid of the cat muf may help the h.p. but for now I'm stuck with it). Can't really remark on the wear and tear since this is my first loop. I'll keep watching it tho.

The 95VP/H30/S30 performs very well on the 353 and 346xp, and probably on the MS260 as well, and most other saws in the 45-50+cc class. The evidence I have seen indicates that the RM (and Oregon BP) isn't nearly as good on saws in this class.