Setting Max RPM on new 660 w/ DP cover

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bluequill56

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I had always thought my MS 460 w/ DP had plenty of power, until I started visiting this site. I now know it clearly does not ;). I don't need that much saw, just a HP junky who likes to watch chips fly and digs fast cuts. Well, couldn't take it any longer; the new MS 660 will be here next week, along with 8pin sprocket, dual port muffler cover, square ground chain, cetra, cetra.

I understand the carb needs reset after installing the DP cover, but I also don't want to go no load max RPM with a new saw to adjust the mixture. Should I wait until it's broke in to put the cover on and readjust? Or just put the cover on now and go to the safe side of rich? Is max rpm on a 660 13,500? Also, planning on trying some milling. I'm OK with breaking a saw in with normal use, but is milling a bit of an extreme use for a new saw? How long should it be run under normal use before trying to mill with it? When milling, is it best to richen up a bit to run cooler? Thanks all!
 
bluequill56 said:
I had always thought my MS 460 w/ DP had plenty of power, until I started visiting this site. I now know it clearly does not ;). I don't need that much saw, just a HP junky who likes to watch chips fly and digs fast cuts. Well, couldn't take it any longer; the new MS 660 will be here next week, along with 8pin sprocket, dual port muffler cover, square ground chain, cetra, cetra.

I understand the carb needs reset after installing the DP cover, but I also don't want to go no load max RPM with a new saw to adjust the mixture. Should I wait until it's broke in to put the cover on and readjust? Or just put the cover on now and go to the safe side of rich? Is max rpm on a 660 13,500? Also, planning on trying some milling. I'm OK with breaking a saw in with normal use, but is milling a bit of an extreme use for a new saw? How long should it be run under normal use before trying to mill with it? When milling, is it best to richen up a bit to run cooler? Thanks all!
Click to expand...

have the dealer install the cover and set the rpm so u don't have to deal with it..i typically run my 660 at 12500-13000. im not a csm'er but it prolly wouldn't be a bad idea to run the saw for a few tanks before strapping it to a mill. and from what i can tellu will want to richen up the saw a tad to lower the rpms. if u are planning on doing all these carb adjustments u will want to get the limiter cap tool and some spare limiter caps

i'd run the saw for a while and then take the muffler off, drill out the spot welds that hold the baffle inside the muffler and remove it. weld the holes shut and open up the factory exhaust port-retune and she will come to life
 
Don't worry about running at wot even if new - you're only doing it for a few seconds, and the factory did it for way longer then that. If it bothers you, sure, wait a few tanks...



As for milling... you need to be WAY rich - I set mine to 11.5 to 12k... probably knocking 20% of the top HP, but that's what it needs to stay cool enough. Saws are not designed to be used for continous power - and that's what CSM is - full power for a tank, stop, gas up, full power etc.. You'll need to remove the tabs on your limiter caps to achieve that. I wouldn't use a new 660 for milling until I have about 10 tanks though it. For milling run 40:1 full synthetic mix. Reset your saw to 13k for conventional sawing.
 
Last edited:
660: Stalls after full load

To the specialists:
I found no answer in the search.

For the running in period i use 1:40 ratio.

My new toy stalls after bucking cut by fast trottle release.

It does not when I blimp the trottle.

See data post before.

L screw more rich or more lean? :confused:

????
 
Last edited:
Your L is likely too rich, or, your LA is set too low. It's a balance.

Turn LA down until it idles slow, (start L at 1 turn out), adjust L to peak then richer 1/4 turn (be quick at peak or it will die). Turn up LA until it idles nicely. Test throttle response.



There are other conditions that can cause such a stall - too low pop-off pressure (carb spring has been messed with) or a bad main check valve.
 
Last edited:
Tanks Lakeside,
the L-screw was very rich.

When I put back the limiter caps I turned the L-needle to much out.
I made some cookies and played with srewdriver and tach.
Now the throttle response is fine.



Cheers
 

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