Husqvarna roller file guide
- Thread starter Kemper
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SawTroll
Information Collector
They sure will, they are made for Oregon chain - just make sure you get the right one!
Being a newb, I bought a few types to try. Well, all of them, I think. LOL.
The std. thin plate guide, the roller guide, the Oregon clamp-on, some triangle shaped one, and the Husky/Pferd that has the raker file built in. I like the last one best. It's also nice that it has a 35 deg. angle guide that matches my chain.
The roller would be my 2nd choice. It's small and easy to use but I think it's at 30 deg. so you'd have to eyeball it if your teeth aren't 30 deg., or just change them to 30.
The std. thin plate guide, the roller guide, the Oregon clamp-on, some triangle shaped one, and the Husky/Pferd that has the raker file built in. I like the last one best. It's also nice that it has a 35 deg. angle guide that matches my chain.
The roller would be my 2nd choice. It's small and easy to use but I think it's at 30 deg. so you'd have to eyeball it if your teeth aren't 30 deg., or just change them to 30.
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Yea i saw that they had different ones avalible,i think i will order me one.
Thanks for the info.
CentaurG2
Addicted to ArboristSite
For filing the teeth I like the Stihl clamp in file guide or the Oregon snap file guide. For setting the raker height I use the Husky roller apparatus.
danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use one and I like the way that it works. They have them in stock at the Lowes stores around me.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Make sure you get one of the combo ones, with the raker guide as well, that one works really well - the most important function of the roller guide itself is keeping the file at the correct hight.
371groundie
ArboristSite Guru
i love the roller guide. just make sure you get chain that has a witness mark on it so you can see what the angle is supposed to be. its awesome!
landroverbill
ArboristSite Member
Does it look something like this?
I've decided I like the roller guide better than the combo file I was using.
Plus, it's handier to keep with me in the woods.
I have a question on the raker depth gauge. The raker comes up through a square hole in the plate. This square hole also has a small notch in it.
If I put the raker in that notch it protrudes a bit higher above the gauge plate than if it's back in the larger part of the opening. What's the correct placement ? Am I over-thinking this ?
Plus, it's handier to keep with me in the woods.
I have a question on the raker depth gauge. The raker comes up through a square hole in the plate. This square hole also has a small notch in it.
If I put the raker in that notch it protrudes a bit higher above the gauge plate than if it's back in the larger part of the opening. What's the correct placement ? Am I over-thinking this ?
onebad450r
ArboristSite Lurker
Pretty sure that you need to put the raker in the smaller notch in the plate. It's going to stick up farther because of the increase in angle. Just make sure you use the right notch, one is for hardwood and the other is for softwood.
As it was mentioned earlier in the thread, The most important part of this gauge is to keep your file the right height to the cutter. I think that this is far more important then if your off a couple of degrees on your angle, especially if you don't have alot of experience in hand filing chains....Only downfall to this type of guide is that the rollers are pretty soft and wear rapidly and they require some modifications if you plan on using them on stihl chains
As it was mentioned earlier in the thread, The most important part of this gauge is to keep your file the right height to the cutter. I think that this is far more important then if your off a couple of degrees on your angle, especially if you don't have alot of experience in hand filing chains....Only downfall to this type of guide is that the rollers are pretty soft and wear rapidly and they require some modifications if you plan on using them on stihl chains
SawTroll
Information Collector
No, the right and left side notches is where the top of the raker is supposed to be, for right and left side cutters. The front notch is for the small ramps in front of the rakers on LP, VP, BP etc chain.
That is all correct! :agree2:
Btw - the Carlton File-O-Plate will do about the same job, but on Carlton chain.
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Makes sense now. Thanks !
New question.
On some teeth the file seems to have a nice crisp "rip" feel, like slicing paper with a sharp knife. Other teeth will feel like I'm kinda grinding them.
Which is better and why don't they all have the same feel ? Most of them have the "grinding" feel. They are all in good shape and look identical to my eye. I've measured their length with a caliper and they're all pretty close. I've been pushing the guide in the direction of filing before filing to try to add some consistency, fwiw. Files are by Pferd. The chain has been cutting great, and holding an edge well, but if there's a lesson to be learned I'd like to have it.
On some teeth the file seems to have a nice crisp "rip" feel, like slicing paper with a sharp knife. Other teeth will feel like I'm kinda grinding them.
Which is better and why don't they all have the same feel ? Most of them have the "grinding" feel. They are all in good shape and look identical to my eye. I've measured their length with a caliper and they're all pretty close. I've been pushing the guide in the direction of filing before filing to try to add some consistency, fwiw. Files are by Pferd. The chain has been cutting great, and holding an edge well, but if there's a lesson to be learned I'd like to have it.
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stihlavarna
ArboristSite Operative
I use the Pferd unit and I know what you mean, when I hold the chain tight and keep it from vibrating, it sounds like the paper cutting sound. I'll make one or two more passes just to get that sound.
Henry G.
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah that happens to me too. I try and give the same amount of strokes to every cutter to keep them even. But some damaged need one or two more no big deal The roller guide is the schitt, so easy to use.
I'm using the Husky roller unit and Pferd files. Regardless of the guide, I don't seem to get the same feel on all the teeth. I'm doing everything I can think of to be consistent in my technique, including torquing the guide so the chain is tight to the opposite side of the bar. I am also tempted to keep stroking a tooth until I get that "rip" feel but I've done it and just end up shortening the tooth too much and still get no "rip". A few teeth seem to just have it and the others don't. I don't think any of them have any damage.
Maybe I'm over-analyzing, but I've read how much difference a good file job can make and I'd like to learn to do the best job possible.
Maybe I'm over-analyzing, but I've read how much difference a good file job can make and I'd like to learn to do the best job possible.
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SWE#Kipp
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sometimes the teeth are different hard which make it seems as them file don't get the "rip" when you run the file at it.
Look a the edge with a good light source, you should not see any light/glare on the edge after.
Look a the edge with a good light source, you should not see any light/glare on the edge after.
Will do.
Different hardness metal on the same chain ? That's what it feels like, but it seems unlikely to me ? Just asking.
