025 Kinda unusual

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Trying to repair an 025, went through it and didn't notice anything but this: When the saw is left to sit overnight and you try to start it first thing with choke on it will run like normal, a few pops then it dies usually before I can get the choke off, but then I could pull until I'm exhausted and not another pop. I've got a new carb ordered for it but I tried priming it and it still wouldn't run. It's got good compression and I've changed sparkplugs a couple of times with new ones but does the same thing. It has spark but it seems sorta weak for a Stihl, not a big blue spark but more of a little orange one. Module also? I had to order the carb because the original was damaged, wouldn't open...
 
After the saw gives a few pops and dies are you trying to restart it with the choke on or off? Seems basic but was not mentioned
 
After the saw gives a few pops and dies are you trying to restart it with the choke on or off? Seems basic but was not mentioned
After it pops I turn the choke off and pull again, then nothing no matter how many times I pull. And no, I don't turn the ignition off, it's in the middle where I start all the Stihl saws..
I went to the shop a few minutes ago and tried again and it did the same thing, a few pops on choke then nothing when choke is off. I have another 025 that starts fine but haven't had much luck with this one. I mentioned I ordered a new carb because I haven't had much luck with these Zamas on these saws, I also ordered a new module in case this one is too weak..
 
Following, I have a ms250 doing the same thing. Mine will pop on choke then kinda sputter off choke. It won't even pop in gas in the carburetor. I have tried both a new carburetor and coil with no luck. The flywheel key isn't sheared but I am using a aftermarket crank. Maybe the timing could be off?


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I dunno, I've just had this saw a couple of days so I haven't done much other than put another carburetor on it, one that came off another saw that wouldn't run so I wasn't expecting much. I may check the compression and give it a pressure/vac test when I get time. I've got a full day tomorrow so doubt I'll get to this one...by the way, the plug appeared to be somewhat wet when I got done cranking on it. Wasn't sure why it would run a bit on choke then not hit at all when choke is off.
 
I think the carb you want is a Walbro WT. 215

I have 3 025s

They flood easily. When cold put on full choke pull until you get one pop,
Then put in the 1/2 choke position and pull till it starts, never go to full choke again
 
If it is flooded take plug out turn upside down and pull a few times to dry it out some and leave plug out and try again the next day
 
I think the carb you want is a Walbro WT. 215

I have 3 025s

They flood easily. When cold put on full choke pull until you get one pop,
Then put in the 1/2 choke position and pull till it starts, never go to full choke again

This is all correct. It's most likely a flooding issue... pull the plug after a bit of trying and give it a sniff. And don't be looking for a big blue spark on this thing, it's harder to get a good ground on these little clamshells. If you see anything, it's working. And open up the muffler a bit on it, they get much easier to start after that. The carb settings for them to run and idle are easily set on this saw, but the adjustment to get the saw to START reliably is a finer adjustment. I hope that makes sense.

Something I did that ultimately helped me with this saw once it was starting well was running the carb screws all the way in and writing down exactly how many turns it took for each of them. This information turned this saw from a frustrating POS into an enjoyable little firewood saw.
 
I'll know a little more this Friday, that's when the new carb (s) are supposed to get here. I ordered both a Walbro and a Zama fully adjustable. I also ordered a module just in case. As for grounding the plug while testing I use a jumper wire from the side of the plug to a fin on the engine, still a rather weak spark. I also cleaned and gapped the module, no change..
 
I'll know a little more this Friday, that's when the new carb (s) are supposed to get here. I ordered both a Walbro and a Zama fully adjustable. I also ordered a module just in case. As for grounding the plug while testing I use a jumper wire from the side of the plug to a fin on the engine, still a rather weak spark. I also cleaned and gapped the module, no change..
This 025 isn't mine, I'm working on it for someone else, my 025 runs great but I put a Walbro carb on it when I put the saw together a few years ago. I never had a starting problem with it.
 
025's are notorious for leaking crank seals or leaking around the base of the cylinder. Sounds like it is pulling in way too much air if it just pops with the choke on and nothing after that. The trouble with those clamshell saws you almost have to tear them all the down to the bare engine do a pressure vac test on them.
 
025's are notorious for leaking crank seals or leaking around the base of the cylinder. Sounds like it is pulling in way too much air if it just pops with the choke on and nothing after that. The trouble with those clamshell saws you almost have to tear them all the down to the bare engine do a pressure vac test on them.
That wouldn't keep it from starting though
 
This question needs answered first.
The plug certainly wasn't dry. I tried a new plug in it and it wouldn't hit at all. I can pressure test an 025 without doing much to it, I have some rubber corks I stick into the intake, a piece of rubber between the muffler and exhaust port and a piece of copper tubing to stick into the pulse hole. I hook the pressure tester to the tubing. Come to think of it, this saw does about like my 041 did and it had a seal leaking badly..
 

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