Stihl 192 tc giving me fits

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

smack16819

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Mar 14, 2024
Messages
10
Reaction score
3
Location
texas
I recently got a Stihl 192 TC from a relative who wasn’t using it and it’s giving me all sorts of trouble. Initially (dumped the old gas for new) it would start but was very difficult to get to start and would die easily, especially when giving gas. I assumed it sat for a while and swapped the carb for an oem from a Stihl dealer.

Now it would start alright, but would bog down and die immediately when giving throttle. Cracking the gas lid fixed this so I swapped the old gas line vent for an oem.

Then it starts alright, but runs incredibly rough and dies shortly after starting.

New spark plug and popped the whole muffler off, runs like a scalded cat.

Muffler back on, giving me problems staying running when I start it, take the muffler back off, and it’s a bear to get started again and it bogs down again when given gas. There’s no spark arrestor at all so I know that’s not the problem.

I took the air filter off to run without and see what happens and I can feel gas spraying up out of the carb, but the carb is brand spanking new.

What else can I do with this thing? I feel like I’ve run through all the options and can’t figure anything else to try beyond putting it in a shop.
 
Did you clean out the fuel line and replace the filter to go with the new carb? And, OE or aftermarket?
A nice new carb can get clogged easily if there is crud in the line.
New fuel filter, but didn’t even consider crud in the line itself. I’ll pull the lines and see if they’re full of stuff or not.

OE Stihl carb.
 
Check the screen in the carb
I’ve got some tiny bits of grit in the screen and in the carb, so I assume there’s crud inside. Got myself a harbor freight vacuum tester and a parts cleaner. Gonna toss the carb in the cleaner and see about the fuel lines. If the lines are good (no cracks I mean) can I throw em in the cleaner too? Or just blow them out?
 
I’ve got some tiny bits of grit in the screen and in the carb, so I assume there’s crud inside. Got myself a harbor freight vacuum tester and a parts cleaner. Gonna toss the carb in the cleaner and see about the fuel lines. If the lines are good (no cracks I mean) can I throw em in the cleaner too? Or just blow them out?
Just blow the lines out.
Don't hit the carb with direct compressed air into the inlets/outlets.
I use berrymans carb cleaner in the sonic tank.5-10 min
 
Just blow the lines out.
Don't hit the carb with direct compressed air into the inlets/outlets.
I use berrymans carb cleaner in the sonic tank.5-10 min
Got it cleaned, flushed the gas tank, all looks fine. But still won’t start. It will turn over, rev high for half a second, then die, and I can’t get it back easily. Regardless, it won’t keep running.

Thoughts?
 
New fuel filter, but didn’t even consider crud in the line itself. I’ll pull the lines and see if they’re full of stuff or not.

OE Stihl carb.
See if the fuel line is soft, the ethanol eats them and they collapse. It will collapse when running, cutting the flow off, but do the vac and pressure test. Harbor Fright might not have a dual function Vac and pressure tester, just a vac.
 
See if the fuel line is soft, the ethanol eats them and they collapse. It will collapse when running, cutting the flow off, but do the vac an and pressure test. Harbor Fright might not have a dual function Vac and pressure tester, just a vac.
Fuel lines all feel alright and I tested them with a vac tester. You’re right though, the harbor freight mityvac I got is vacuum only. So I’m going to return it and find a dual function.

I vacuum tested the lines though and they were fine, held pressure and didn’t collapse. I flipped the rubber gasket in the carb to see if that was the issue, not the one with the silver side, to see if that changed anything.

When I tried to turn it over, it ran great. I was in a hurry and hadn’t re-attached the throttle control though, but it sat and ran fine, although the carb was super loose because I hadn’t fully tightened I’d down. Then I got it re-attached, the clutch control wasn’t seated and a flooded it. So I’m making stupid mistakes so in done for now, but I might be on the right track finally. I’m going to get the dual purpose tester regardless.
 
Ms192s seem to get bearing wear on pto side. Does the crank have play up and down with chain off? (Not in and out play) if so, that could your main issue as it will suck air
 
When you guys have to order parts, do you go to your local Stihl dealer, or do you go to the internet to find your parts? If you go to the internet which sights, do you guys' trust. I have been having a heck of a time finding anyone other than Amazon. Or is that who you recommend? I'm looking for Stihl OE parts. I to have a MS192TC that is just starting to give me a little trouble like the gentlemen above is having, but just intermittently. Every other tank or so.
 
When you guys have to order parts, do you go to your local Stihl dealer, or do you go to the internet to find your parts? If you go to the internet which sights, do you guys' trust. I have been having a heck of a time finding anyone other than Amazon. Or is that who you recommend? I'm looking for Stihl OE parts. I to have a MS192TC that is just starting to give me a little trouble like the gentlemen above is having, but just intermittently. Every other tank or so.
STIHL dealer.
 
When you guys have to order parts, do you go to your local Stihl dealer, or do you go to the internet to find your parts? If you go to the internet which sights, do you guys' trust. I have been having a heck of a time finding anyone other than Amazon. Or is that who you recommend? I'm looking for Stihl OE parts. I to have a MS192TC that is just starting to give me a little trouble like the gentlemen above is having, but just intermittently. Every other tank or so.
The internet stuff usually winds up costing more for OE parts. I can get pts from my local dealer a lot cheaper on almost every occasion.
 
The internet stuff usually winds up costing more for OE parts. I can get pts from my local dealer a lot cheaper on almost every occasion.
Thank you for the reply, I thought that dealership was really the only way to go. I can see how the internet stuff would be more expensive than the dealership when you have to pay for shipping.
 
I lost a piece of rubber tubing down into the piston while checking for the air leak and had to completely pull the cylinder to get it out again. It looks like the seal was likely leaking on the bar side. So I’ll just replace both seals cause I’m this far in and why not. How does the cylinder look/how should I get the carbon out/off the piston? Anything else worth checking while I’ve got it broken down this far?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0368.jpeg
    IMG_0368.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_0370.jpeg
    IMG_0370.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_0372.jpeg
    IMG_0372.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
I lost a piece of rubber tubing down into the piston while checking for the air leak and had to completely pull the cylinder to get it out again. It looks like the seal was likely leaking on the bar side. So I’ll just replace both seals cause I’m this far in and why not. How does the cylinder look/how should I get the carbon out/off the piston? Anything else worth checking while I’ve got it broken down this far?
 
Back
Top