028 problem. Points to solid state?

[chainsaw kid]

Hey guys.
First off, I would like to introduce myself. I'm new to the forum and like small engines and most of all chainsaws. I am a aviation mechanic but I do a lot of tinkering outside of work on cars, lawn mowers, chainsaws etc. I live in N.H and burn wood for heat. I get my wood from helping people remove trees the side of the road or however I can get it. I'm a Stihl fan. I bought an 025 back in Jan 2001 and been really using that saw for all it's worth. It always starts and cuts great. It has 18'' bar w/325 chain.
Now, as far as the 028....I got this saw off craigslist for $25.00 brought it home (compression was @ 145 cold) gased it up and it ran. The guy I got it from bought it new back in 1983 as far as he could remember and said it hasn't had much use in all these years (it sat most of the time). Anyhow, I wasn't to impressed w/ the way it cut...seemed tired (I only cut a few pieces). So I rebuilt the carb and the thing woke up!
After tweeking the carb (letting it four stroke on the top a little) and cutting for about ten min I put the saw down and let it idle for about a min or so then when I picked it back up and gave it throttle it sounded like it was braking-up and wouldn't rev but it would idle fine. If you keep messing with it you could get it going again and it would cut good w/out bogging down but if you let it come down to an idle the same thing would happen.
I was thinking it was an ignition problem. Replaced the plug same thing happened after it warmed up. Cleaned the points...same thing. Now I'm thinking it could be the condenser. But I don't know if the coil is braking down either. All these parts add up.
I was searching through threads and found some people converting over to solid state ignition. What are the pros and cons? Can I use my old flywheel? Is all I have to do is put the new coil in and run a wire to the kill switch?

 

[Lakeside53]

If you want to convert, you can use your old coil and flywheel in the case. Easiest and best way is just buy a used 0000 400 1300 electronic igntion module for $25-35...

 

[chainsaw kid]

If you want to convert, you can use your old coil and flywheel in the case. Easiest and best way is just buy a used 0000 400 1300 electronic igntion module for $25-35...

I thought the electronic ign module is built into the the coil and I would junk my old coil. Am I wrong?

 

[Lakeside53]

It is on the module I indicated, but you can also just add a trigger and mount bracket etc.

 

[chainsaw kid]

It is on the module I indicated, but you can also just add a trigger and mount bracket etc.

Thanks for the info. I looked on ebay for that module and can't find it. Where ele can I find one for cheap? Thanks again.

 

[Lakeside53]

It's the ignition module for the 026, 028 super, 029, 034, 036, MS360, 044, MS310, MS390 etc etc.,. to name some of them.

 

[chainsaw kid]

It's the ignition module for the 026, 028 super, 029, 034, 036, MS360, 044, MS310, MS390 etc etc.,. to name some of them.

Andy,
What do you think of just keeping it points and condenser? If I replaced points and condenser? Do you think my trouble shooting is missing anything?

 

[PES+]

Nady gave you the easiest and fastest way

I have the coils that he said which have the chip built it as well as the point/condenser eliminator chips but if that does not fix the problem you will spend more for a used points coil plus the cost of the chip.

Points and condenser are more than all the other options.

Check your points real closely for any spots of carbon and you can file them lightly with a points file then clean them well to see if they may be the problem.

 

[Lakeside53]

Andy,
What do you think of just keeping it points and condenser? If I replaced points and condenser? Do you think my trouble shooting is missing anything?

It's usually just the condensor. You'd need a flywheel puller so you may as well forget them and just replace the coil. I often just replace the condensor, but I have pullers.

 

[chainsaw kid]

It's usually just the condensor. You'd need a flywheel puller so you may as well forget them and just replace the coil. I often just replace the condensor, but I have pullers.

I have a puller too....at least one I have that worked hehehe. I cleaned the points put it back together and no help. What were the symptoms you've seen in the past with a bad condenser?

 

[PES+]

Usually it will die

Or break up like you described but they usually do not recover.

If you have a puller check all the wiring for stray shorts and check the coil closely for any cracks in the insulation

 

[chainsaw kid]

I have the coils that he said which have the chip built it as well as the point/condenser eliminator chips but if that does not fix the problem you will spend more for a used points coil plus the cost of the chip.

Points and condenser are more than all the other options.

Check your points real closely for any spots of carbon and you can file them lightly with a points file then clean them well to see if they may be the problem.

My points were dirty and some slight pitting. The shop up the road wants 22.00 for the points and $30.00 for the condenser. I don't have a tool to set the points gap with but I marked the old ones when I took them out hoping that when/if I install new ones I can just line up the outline I traced from the old one.

 

[Lakeside53]

If you really want to go that route - condensor - 1118 404 3400 - MSRP out here is $22.45.

I would be rare to need to replace the points... very rare...

 

[chainsaw kid]

If you really want to go that route - condensor - 1118 404 3400 - MSRP out here is $22.45.

I would be rare to need to replace the points... very rare...

I took the points out cuz I figured I'd be replacing them but I guess I could put them back in. Woul you replace the condenser or swap over?

 

[PES+]

This could be interesting.....

As you discovered your local dealer can charge whatever he likes for parts.

If your points were/are pitted then the condenser was and is bad and the last guy ran it a while with the bad condenser.

Either get a chip or go with the new style coil module.

Attempting to trace the outline of points to set the gap will NOT work.

 

[chainsaw kid]

As you discovered your local dealer can charge whatever he likes for parts.

If your points were/are pitted then the condenser was and is bad and the last guy ran it a while with the bad condenser.

Either get a chip or go with the new style coil module.

Attempting to trace the outline of points to set the gap will NOT work.

Yeah, I know it wouldn't be right to try and set the gap that way but I figured I could get it real close at best. Every time you clean points your messing up the gap just a tad. How much am I looking at for a coil/module?
Also, the guy I bought the saw from gave me the original owners manual and it said to mix your gas 40:1. I run 50:1 stihl mix in my other saw and weed eater. Do you think 50:1 in the 028 is ok?

 

[Lakeside53]

50:1 is fine.

 

[PES+]

$30 bucks and a couple of bucks to mail it.

The chips are about 12 or so shipping included if you want to go that route.

 

[chainsaw kid]

I have ANOTHER question.
I received that coil in the mail today. Thanks, it's sparking true blue. I now have a solid state set up and did away with the points. The baby is asleep so I can't start it tonight but my question is... what spark plug should I use? I have a champion RCJ6Y or a bosch WSR6F?

 

[PES+]

Your choice

I USED to have better luck with the Bosch but they seem about the same these days

Just make sure to use resistor plugs (both are that you listed)

Put the Bosch in