028 super won't cut off

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stihl041avhog

stihl041avhog

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This is getting the best of me. Put new fuel line and impulse hose on my new to me 028 super. Got her running but the cut off switch doesn't work. I can choke it to kill it but it takes a little while to stop. I check the wire from the coil to the switch and it checks good. removed the spring contact and cleaned. I even tried a jumper wire from coil wire straight the to the cylinder and it keeps running. What do you think I'm missing. Can that side of the coil go bad, just guessing.
 
Deane Hartford

Deane Hartford

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Sep 10, 2014
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I'm sort of having the same problem with my 028. I just fixed it all up like you. When I put the switch on stop it takes maybe five seconds before the saw saw shuts off. I was too happy it's running to worry much about this.

I've got no idea why it does this and I haven't checked to see if my contact wire is bad. Just going to hang around and see what the people here have to say.
 
JC360

JC360

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I have an 026 that does the same thing.
On mine it keeps running when you turn the master control to "off",but if I pull it back down towards the on position slightly, it will kill. Not sure if the switches are the same, i dont have an 028 anymore.
 
adkranger

adkranger

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Check continuity of kill wire and that it makes proper contact with spring contact. From my experience many times the spring contact needs tweakin' to make a good contact with the wire, but sounds like the OP has checked these things....
 
jughead500

jughead500

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Always checked these things.with the 028's all the twerkin I done only helped for a little while.usually the springy thing.a dab of glue on the thingamajiggy on the end of the kill wire will help on the other side.
 
Jason280

Jason280

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removed the spring contact and cleaned.

I assume the kill switch was working correctly before you replaced the fuel line? If so, then its simply a reassembly issue. I ran into this problem recently with an MS210, and it turned out to be a simple fix. I had to pull the carb to clean it, and once I had everything back together, couldn't get the saw to shut off with the kill switch. Like you, the only way I could shut it down was to choke the carb. Turns out, I routed the kill switch wire incorrectly, which was blocking the the thumb switch from going all the way to the top position (thus, blocking the terminal from coming in contact with the finger spring).

With the rear cover off, look at the switch assembly. There's a finger-spring (flat piece of spring steel) that serves two functions, it controls the positions of the thumb switch, and contacts the kill switch wire to shut off the saw. There's a small male speaker terminal on the end of the kill wire that slides into a slot, which then contacts the finger-spring when the thumb switch is in the "off" position. If they aren't contacting each other, then that's your problem. Make sure the wire is routed correctly, it has a tab it slides into under the switch assembly to keep it out of the way.
 
nikb47

nikb47

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Apr 18, 2014
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Get a multimeter and check continuity between the kill wire and coil with it in the off position. Trace it until you find where you lose continuity. Just a couple things to check. Electrical is really pretty easy stuff. When you ground the coil it kills the spark...
 
stihl041avhog

stihl041avhog

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The saw wasn't running when I got it. I checked the wire with my continuity probe, tested good. Cleaned the spring and bent it a little. The contact is in the right place. I looked at my other 028 there the same. I'm still at a lost.
.
 
nikb47

nikb47

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Apr 18, 2014
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Yes the spring has to ground back to the coil. There should be a wire that goes from the spring to the crank case or all the way back to the coil.
 
nikb47

nikb47

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Apr 18, 2014
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Ok do you have continuity between the male spade that comes out of the coil and the part of the coil that bolts to the crankcase?
 

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