031/032 muffler removal

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oldschoolstihl

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Hello,
how many fasteners and where are they located on a 031 or 032?
I am not sure which saw I have as all the markings seem to be gone.
I want to remove the muffler, check the piston (visual only of course) and mod the muffler while it is off.
any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks greg
 
Yeah, I KNOW it's 7yo. I just don't see the point in starting a NEW post if I'm on the same topic. Then ya wind up with numerous links to search on the same subject which (I think) should be combined.

Anyway, back to the 032.
I want to pull my muffler and clean/paint or replace it. I'm interested in knowing what's involved in getting at it. On the 032 there's a shroud(like a cap) which encases the cylinder and muffler. Further, it looks like it's integrated into the handle. I suspect the carb has to come out, then maybe the engine pulls out of the case. I did some searching and found instructions for changing the fuel tank which I thought would be similar(tear down).

How to Replace a Gas Tank on a Stihl Chain Saw

The gas tank in a Stihl chain saw is surrounded by other parts, so you must disassemble the saw to gain access to replace the tank. Fortunately, disassembly, tank replacement and reassembly only require basic tools.
1 Drain the fuel tank completely. Rotate the twist lock retaining screw on the carburetor box cover counterclockwise by hand. Lift the box to gain access to the air filter assembly and carburetor.
2 Unscrew the two slotted air filter retaining nuts and remove the filter. Unclip the choke and throttle linkage rods from the carburetor choke and throttle plastic linkages.
3 Unscrew the four front handle retaining screws from the front and underside. Remove the handle.
4 Pry the carburetor adjusting screws' rubber grommet from the right side carburetor body. Pull the fuel hose free from the inlet elbow fitting by hand.
5 Unscrew the two retaining nuts from the carburetor mounting studs. Slide the carburetor free from the studs and engine intake manifold box.
6 Unscrew the top engine cylinder shroud retaining screw, disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the engine cylinder shroud.

Here's the link to the page:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/replace-gas-tank-stihl-chain-saw-101764.html

I don't mind doing the work. I just like to know what's involved before I start. With the internet, there's no reason NOT to.

Thanks for all the replies,
TomJV
 
Wow! What happened to him? Or what didn't ...
The carb's still in it. It's AL and can most likely be removed and rebuilt with a $6 kit. I don't know what the availability is on those things. It may have a dollar value on that auction site.
TomJV
 
I took my 032AV muffler off today.
First, it's a bit rusty and I wanted to paint it.
Second, it's been in the back of my mind to evaluate it for a mod.
Third, there's some staining on the recoil cover indicative of blowby.

REMOVAL: I've been trying to figure out how to get it off. I wasn't sure if the whole saw (carb, throttle linkage etc) all had to come off) I turns out, it's pretty easy. The muffler is a two piece affair. There's 3 bolts visible (2 front, 1 side behind the bar). Remove them and the muffler "cover" comes off. It pivots counter clockwise toward the recoil. The remaining part is secured with (only) two bolts into the cylinder head. When I tried the two cylinder head bolts, they were LOOSE. The piston looks fine. The exhaust port looks DANDY for a 35+ YO saw.

MODDING? : If you asked me a month ago about modding the 032AV muffler, I would have said: "Why? it's pre-EPA". Today, I stand corrected. The 032AV muffler appears to me, every bit as choked off as the MS361 we're so familiar with. The exhaust enters the muff thru a baffle. The exhaust then exits via another baffle. I didn't pull the caliber out, but the exit is about 1/4-1/3 the area of the cylinder head exhaust port. I'd say there's room for improvement. I'm thinking about one hole in line with the C.H. exhaust port and another one or two into the exit baffle. Still, the final exit is pretty small, so I'm thinking a hole or two out the front behind the heat shield will do nicely.
If you squeamish about ruining you part, I've seen them on a popular auction site for $60.

ASIDE: Please take a gander at my clutch basket. What do you suppose is causing the chafing? (I just noticed it NOW as I'm posting this)
TomJV

20170210_164948.jpg 20170210_165014.jpg 20170210_165020.jpg 20170210_170303.jpg 20170210_171442.jpg
 
I drilled the holes as shown. Sprayed 'er up with black engine paint and reassembled.
I ran the saw for a few minutes and was very pleased.
The idle was a drop high, so I gave it 1/4 turn til the chain stopped. Otherwise it seems to run perfect. Was too cold to do a full carb tune but frankly, I think it's nearly perfect as is. Off idle throttle response is WAY improved. Wide open seems fine but I'll likely give 'er a 1/4 turn out to richen 'er up a drop. I didn't notice it being louder, but the exhaust note is a bit higher pitch. This saw always sounded muffled, now it sounds like a chain saw.
As for the holes, I drilled one in line with the exhaust port to partially bypass that baffle. Then I drilled the six holes shown above. I didn't notice much coming from the 3 lowers, but definitely more from the stock exit. I did some quick math and the three lower holes + the stock exit = 80% cylinder exhaust port. Only the three lower holes add to the mix as the three uppers are limited by the stock exit.
TomJV
 

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