036 cylinder w/o decomp

[94BULLITT]

I have an 036 (non pro) that needs a cylinder. Does anybody have a part number for a cylinder for an 036 with out the decomp hole? I looked at an IPL and found one, 1125 020 1206 but that number was not any good. I think it was not for a US model. I did try an 034S part number 1125 020 1202 and was a good number. So should I go with the 034S cylinder or try to find an 036 cylinder with out a decomp hole?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[farmer steve]

try 1125-020-1213. this is whats on the ipl i have. piston and cylinder ans rings.

 

[Definitive Dave]

i might be wrong but I think it is superseded by the current MS360 cylinder automatically in the dealer system

 

[fearofpavement]

The decomp cylinder has different fin dimensions and won't fit with the plastics on the non decomp saws. I've run into this trying to put an 036 aftermarket cylinder on an 034S. Bolts on just fine but something has to be modded to make it work.

 

[94BULLITT]

try 1125-020-1213. this is whats on the ipl i have. piston and cylinder ans rings.

Thanks, I'll try that part number tomorrow.

i might be wrong but I think it is superseded by the current MS360 cylinder automatically in the dealer system

I hope not.

The decomp cylinder has different fin dimensions and won't fit with the plastics on the non decomp saws. I've run into this trying to put an 036 aftermarket cylinder on an 034S. Bolts on just fine but something has to be modded to make it work.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[94BULLITT]

How would I tell if my saw has the original cylinder on it? I am pretty sure it has an aftermarket cylinder on it. It has the p/n 48ZN11 at the cylinder base and "Z" on the side of the jug just like the one in this thread but mine does not say Mahle.

 

[fearofpavement]

How would I tell if my saw has the original cylinder on it? I am pretty sure it has an aftermarket cylinder on it. It has the p/n 48ZN11 at the cylinder base and "Z" on the side of the jug just like the one in this thread but mine does not say Mahle.

Do you have it off the saw? It should say Stihl on it somewhere.

 

[94BULLITT]

Yes, it is off the saw. I did not see Stihl on it any where but I'll look again in the morning.

 

[94BULLITT]

The cylinder does not say Stihl on it.

I called the dealer this morning and p/c kit 1125 020 1213 was superseded to one with a decomp like dave said. So I ordered an 034S p/c 1125 020 1202 . He said it might be a week or longer for it to come in. They also had another one that was available for the 034S I think the number was 1125 020 1204.

 

[Definitive Dave]

your cylinder could also say gillardoni or have a capital "K" and "S" stamped over each other (koblenschmidt) and those could be OEM as well
the KS is often stamped on the top of the cylinder and not very large
Dave

 

[drf255]

You have an OEM 036 Jug as per those markings.

Try to save the cylinder.

The decomp 360 jug will 100% fit the old plastics for the 036. It will not fit an 034 cover, the rib under the front is thicker.

You will need to plug the decomp.

 

[94BULLITT]

I looked the cylinder over and did not see any other markings.



The one hole through the fins in the cylinder does not align with the bolt hole. Someone notched the fin. I had to use a t-20 torx on angle to get the bolt. I can go straight down through the fins on my 034s to get that bolt.







I thought the casting looked rough for a stihl cylinder but I could be wrong.

 

[SEAM]

Your cylinder is marked 48ZN11 (Mahle)... So, it is original, but probably for the 034S.

 

[drf255]

It won't say Stihl on it. It's still OEM.

The ones that said "Stihl" on them (on some models) were a lower quality casting that was actually made by Stihl at one point. As Dave said, the OEM Stihl jugs were made by Mahle (what you have there), Kolbënschmidt (KS-looks more like a $ sign on a jug), Gillardoni and Stihl themselves. I have a KS 026 cylinder that says "Stihl" and has the KS marking.

I don't understand this hole misalignment you speak of. All 4 base bolts should be accessible through the holes through the fins.

You need to look inside the jug. See if it's still usable. Randy (Mastermind) has a good video in the sticky section here and on the other forum of how to clean a jug up. The Aluminum transfer is soft stuff and the nikasil is tprather tough and hard. Removing the transfer usually involves using some muriatic acid, which can be dangerous but will dissolve aluminum, or sanding the soft aluminum off if the nikasil.

There's a very good chance that your cylinder is salvageable.

You do need to find out why your saw scored in the first place though. If you don't, you'll be back in the same situation after a lot of time and money.

 

[94BULLITT]

You guys just about have me convinced that it is a stihl cylinder, my only doubt is the bolt hole misalignment. The cylinder is pretty dirty on the outside like it is an older cylinder, not a newer replacement. I may have jumped the gun on ordering the new cylinder. The cylinder was nasty looking on the inside. It did not have transfer but it had brown stains around the ports, I guess carbon. It looked like the plating was thin too. I took a red scotch brite with some wd40 on it and cleaned it up by hand. The cylinder looks good now. The brown stains were making the plating look thin. I did not bother cleaning it up before since I thought it was an aftermarket cylinder. I've seen Randy's cylinder cleaning video, it is very helpful. I got this saw from a guy because the compression was getting low on it and it would not start all the time. It still had 130psi. I vac tested and found a bad impulse line which was the starting problem.

Is the the KS marking you speak of? (024/24S cylinder)



Here is another pic of the bolt misalignment. I can access this bolt no problem on my 034s.



I had to come through on an angle like this with a t-20 bit to get it off the saw.

 

[SEAM]

Tool shaft is too thick...

 

[drf255]

Tool shaft is too thick...

Yup.

That is the KS $ sign we speak of.

Tighten up squish, add a new top ring only (if piston is good), advance timing, mod muffler, and you will have a damn good saw.

Return the AM kit you bought.

 

[Definitive Dave]

and that should be a torx 27 not a 20, unless I am off my meds again, it isn't that uncommon to have a tight shaft, I like the T27 6" driver bits for removal and the thin shaft t27 T handle for installation
I am not the 026/36 guru that DRF255 is but on the larger models the KS jugs are considered the best of the crop.

 

[94BULLITT]

Yup.

That is the KS $ sign we speak of.

Tighten up squish, add a new top ring only (if piston is good), advance timing, mod muffler, and you will have a damn good saw.

Return the AM kit you bought.

I was planning on doing a base gasket delete if possible, muffler mod, and timing advance. I bought a Stihl kit for it.

Here is the piston that was in it. Is it OEM or AM?

and that should be a torx 27 not a 20, unless I am off my meds again, it isn't that uncommon to have a tight shaft, I like the T27 6" driver bits for removal and the thin shaft t27 T handle for installation
I am not the 026/36 guru that DRF255 is but on the larger models the KS jugs are considered the best of the crop.

It was a t-27 bolt head. The T-20 was the only one I could access it with, even coming through the side on angle. I used T-handle to disassemble it. Dewalt had a pretty nice set with long torx bits I was going to get for my battery impact but now I can't find it anywhere.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Still no word on why this cylinder is being replaced? (I may have missed it). If it is scored it may be able to be cleaned up.
You need to check on a Wiha T27 torx T handle, and never look back!
http://www.wihatools.com/torxr-t-handles