038 super deuce oiler replacement..

[HAOLE]

Tried finding a oil pump (119-640-3200) for my 038 super 2 at a few stihl an saw shops here in Oregon. It was a hard part to find but it finally happened.

Any tricks or tips on throwing this on? Tired of flipping it over and even draining it. I’ve cut maybe 6 cords since February and it’s been leaking like a sieve since the first day I used it.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Tried finding a oil pump (119-640-3200) for my 038 super 2 at a few stihl an saw shops here in Oregon. It was a hard part to find but it finally happened.

Any tricks or tips on throwing this on? Tired of flipping it over and even draining it. I’ve cut maybe 6 cords since February and it’s been leaking like a sieve since the first day I used it.

There’s a gasket between the pump and case your gonna want to replace as well.

 

[Mad Professor]

Tried finding a oil pump (119-640-3200) for my 038 super 2 at a few stihl an saw shops here in Oregon. It was a hard part to find but it finally happened.

Any tricks or tips on throwing this on? Tired of flipping it over and even draining it. I’ve cut maybe 6 cords since February and it’s been leaking like a sieve since the first day I used it.

If the piston and body are in good shape they are pretty easy to rebuild. A sealing ring and 2 o-rings. Save the old one for parts

 

[link]

Tried finding a oil pump (119-640-3200) for my 038 super 2 at a few stihl an saw shops here in Oregon. It was a hard part to find but it finally happened.

Any tricks or tips on throwing this on? Tired of flipping it over and even draining it. I’ve cut maybe 6 cords since February and it’s been leaking like a sieve since the first day I used it.

There are several places that may cause a leak on that pump, and I suspect its meant to do so...
First you have to remove the clutch cover, when that is done you have it right in front of you.
It looks something like this, I never had an OEM 038/380 pump but I have several aftermarkets ones and they are all a little different, but basically of course they are all a copy of the one you have.


These are the basic main parts; piston, adjuster shaft, a rubber plug that seals the end, and the drive gears.

That rubber plug is capable of popping out if it is not installed perfectly dry, that would cause a massive failure.

The most obvious seals are the main gasket between the pump and the crankcase, and the rubber seal ring that seals the gear shaft. They are in my experience the least probable cause for a leak, but of course on an old saw that rubber seal might be worn and fail.

If you have a new pump and a new pump gasket then you don't have to worry about that.

One place it may leak is at the ends of the adjuster shaft, there should be some rubber o-rings there;

Again if you have a new OEM pump you probably don't have to worry about that.
On the aftermarket ones some have o-rings to seal the adjuster shaft, and some simply don't...

Now look at these gear shafts;

You see they are open in the center where the axle for the gear shaft comes through - so that the bar oil can seep through there and lubricate the axle, after that the bar oil will seep out to the circular hole in the plastic gear and get thrown outwards on to the gears and perhaps help cooling the clutch bell as well so that the plastic gear on the cluch bell doesnt melt.

As long as there is oil in the tank there will always seep oil out through that axle, and it will accumulate inside the clutch compartment and finally on your bench top. Now the OEM pump might have such a super perfectly accurate fit and tolerance so that the oil leak will be minimal, but it will likely be there.
On the aftermarket pumps the tolerance between the axle and gear-shaft is not usually that great, and in worst cases it might pump more oil in to the clutch compartment than to the guide bar and chain.
The clearance of the piston and the oil pump frame (cylinder) will of course also be a contributing factor to this.
I simply glue a patch of thin rubber gasket sheet with CA glue over the axle hole in the plastic gear and my copycat saw don't leave any oil on the bench. With an OEM pump I would try it as it is first though.

 

[Mad Professor]

There are several places that may cause a leak on that pump, and I suspect its meant to do so...
First you have to remove the clutch cover, when that is done you have it right in front of you.
It looks something like this, I never had an OEM 038/380 pump but I have several aftermarkets ones and they are all a little different, but basically of course they are all a copy of the one you have.
View attachment 1023974

These are the basic main parts; piston, adjuster shaft, a rubber plug that seals the end, and the drive gears.
View attachment 1023975
That rubber plug is capable of popping out if it is not installed perfectly dry, that would cause a massive failure.

The most obvious seals are the main gasket between the pump and the crankcase, and the rubber seal ring that seals the gear shaft. They are in my experience the least probable cause for a leak, but of course on an old saw that rubber seal might be worn and fail.
View attachment 1023976
If you have a new pump and a new pump gasket then you don't have to worry about that.

One place it may leak is at the ends of the adjuster shaft, there should be some rubber o-rings there;
View attachment 1023978
Again if you have a new OEM pump you probably don't have to worry about that.

Now look at these gear shafts;
View attachment 1023977
You see they are open in the center where the axle for the gear shaft comes through - so that the bar oil can seep through there and lubricate the axle, after that the bar oil will seep out to the circular hole in the plastic gear and get thrown outwards on to the gears and perhaps help cooling the clutch bell as well so that the plastic gear on the cluch bell doesnt melt.

As long as there is oil in the tank there will always seep oil out through that axle, and it will accumulate inside the clutch compartment and finally on your bench top. Now the OEM pump might have such a super perfectly accurate fit and tolerance so that the oil leak will be minimal, but it will likely be there.
On the aftermarket pumps the tolarance between the axle and gear-shaft is not usually that great, and in worst cases it might pump more oil in to the cluch compartment than to the guide bar and chain.
I simply glue a patch of rubber gasket sheet with CA glue over the axle hole in the plastic gear and my copycat saw don't leave any oil on the bench. With an OEM pump I would try it as it is first though.

"That rubber plug is capable of popping out if it is not installed perfectly dry, that would cause a massive failure."

That plug keeps crap out of housing, about it.

 

[HAOLE]

Thanks for the responses guys! I’m going to try and tackle this leak this week. My grandfather had a new clutch installed not long ago, perhaps it had just been too saturated with oil? Old girl but worth the work, love the torque it has!