OK, I came on here a couple years ago with an oiling problem with my Stihl 039... I installed a new oil pump and gear and everything was fine. Now the saw seems to be having a similar problem, but it seems a quick wear out of the pump (the original lasted 14 years). Symtoms are the roller tip smoking like crazy and very little oil seems to be pumping/getting on the chain/bar. The bar is clean/clear. I took the bar off and ran it and the oil is intermittant out of the oil port. On disassembly all the lines, port, pick-up & tank seem to be clean/clear. Is the "new" pump bad that quick? The pump itself seems to turn OK...
039 old faithful
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fearofpavement
Trying them all
Well, it appears you have already done the troubleshooting. Brings you back to the pump.
Before I pulled it apart, I would empty the oil tank and run some diesel or kerosene though it in case it is gummed up. If it doesn't clean it out, you're back to the pump...
The line to the pump was/is clear. The oil tank and pick-up screen are clean. Pump seems to turn OK. The only thing I can come up with is something in the case pathway between the pump elbow and the exit hole to the bar. Maybe I can try to get some penetrating oil or something in there. The oil path/hole is too small for anything but a pipe cleaner, and there's a bend in there... This is only the second time the saw has ever given me any trouble in the 16 years I've had it as my fire wooding and general purpose saw on the farm.
Everything related to bar/chain oiling has been cleaned out. Got a new bar $$$ugh!!. Will start&check out as soon as I have time.
Looked at the new 461s...Holy Crap they're expensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Looked at the new 461s...Holy Crap they're expensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take the oil cap off. Drain the oil tank. Get a set of hemostats. Pull the oil line filter off. Clean well with carb cleaner. Install and see if that helps. I'm betting it's clogged.
ROWDY
ArboristSite Operative
What are/have you been using for oil?
There is a little alum ring in the outlet tube (were the oil meets the bar) check that out and make sure the hose isn't collapsing
The inlet and outlet hoses are easy to change and cheap to replace I would replace them
The inlet and outlet hoses are easy to change and cheap to replace I would replace them
Log Man
ArboristSite Member
Check Oil Tank Vent
Please check the oil tank vent - it could be stopped up or not working properly. Its the silver looking disc to the right of the stud.
Please check the oil tank vent - it could be stopped up or not working properly. Its the silver looking disc to the right of the stud.
Log Man,... that vent. How do I get that out to clean/inspect it? (I don't want to break anything...) All previous suggestions are already done.
I just use ordinary bar oil from the store I happen to be at when need some. I do think I might "cut" that with some thinner motor oil when it' cold out. The normal stuff flows like tar when it's cold.
...and the 461 price shock was similar to the price shock of a new version of my 039, at almost double what I paid 16 years ago. Same as everything else though.
I just use ordinary bar oil from the store I happen to be at when need some. I do think I might "cut" that with some thinner motor oil when it' cold out. The normal stuff flows like tar when it's cold.
...and the 461 price shock was similar to the price shock of a new version of my 039, at almost double what I paid 16 years ago. Same as everything else though.
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RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
I agree with ruling out some sort of line blockage and being an older saw it may be sawed fines build up in the oil tank from years of filling especially if the fill hole is not kept clear/clean of sawed fines when being used,,, there is a screen on the end of the suction hose in the tank be sure to flush/clean the tank then flush the suction hose from the pump side into the tank and then make sure you dont have a hole in the dishcharge side hose that feeds the bar oiler gallery while you are at it. check the tank vent use a little air pressure like from a key board air can to blow in the vent into the tank,,, if all those are good and clean and you need another pump I will be glad to send you a good used one if you take care of the shipping
You dont have to take it out
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OK, I'll see what I can see with some "air". I already shot some penetrating oil into the vent and worked on it the best I could with a dental pick and pipe cleaners. I found out several years ago that pipe cleaners are perfect for keeping the oil holes & openings open (except that the vent hole is so tiny). They're also handy for cleaning the bar holes and chain guide.
Wait... "discharge side hose that feeds the gallery"? I don't recall this item. The pump dischages into a metal nipple with an o-ring seal. Is there a rubber line between that and the gallery? I don't see any such item in the parts schematic...
Thanks
Wait... "discharge side hose that feeds the gallery"? I don't recall this item. The pump dischages into a metal nipple with an o-ring seal. Is there a rubber line between that and the gallery? I don't see any such item in the parts schematic...
Thanks
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Log Man
ArboristSite Member
Vent - Air
RiverRat2 is correct to check with air and components.
If the vent is stopped up you can knock it thru into the oil tank and remove (its just a pressed fit). Press in a new one. I don't use Pipe cleaners because the fuss can come off in the hole and you can't get it out.
If you use thick oil it will wear your oil pump. See picture of pump parts - the oil pump shaft is hardened steel and will wear the alum. pump housing. This will create excess clearance in the pump and you will lose oil output per rotation of the shaft. You will have to replace oil pump.
RiverRat2 is correct to check with air and components.
If the vent is stopped up you can knock it thru into the oil tank and remove (its just a pressed fit). Press in a new one. I don't use Pipe cleaners because the fuss can come off in the hole and you can't get it out.
If you use thick oil it will wear your oil pump. See picture of pump parts - the oil pump shaft is hardened steel and will wear the alum. pump housing. This will create excess clearance in the pump and you will lose oil output per rotation of the shaft. You will have to replace oil pump.
What is "thick oil?". I've always used "chainsaw bar oil" as sold in the hardware section of the local stores. Is this wrong?
Answer to self... I just dicovered bar oil comes in different weights. The "new" gallon I opened today is 30 wt and much thinner than the last gallon which must have been 90 wt.
RiverRat, The compressed air did the trick! Seems to be working fine again.
Other answer to self- the vent seems to have a tiny C-clip on the inside of the oil tank. I would need a jewelers glass and some brain surgeon skills to get at that rascal though.
Thanks everybody, Greg
Answer to self... I just dicovered bar oil comes in different weights. The "new" gallon I opened today is 30 wt and much thinner than the last gallon which must have been 90 wt.
RiverRat, The compressed air did the trick! Seems to be working fine again.
Other answer to self- the vent seems to have a tiny C-clip on the inside of the oil tank. I would need a jewelers glass and some brain surgeon skills to get at that rascal though.
Thanks everybody, Greg
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