041 No Start

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By the way, how do you go about adjusting the points on this saw? The flywheel covers them up and there's no window in the flywheel to work with. When the flywheel's off you don't have a cam to operate the points....

I'll try a new plug but I don't think it'll be that easy.
 
Try the new plug. Buddy of mine gave me his 028 to get going, it was doing exactly what your's is. Tried everything, new plug, away it went. First pull.

Seems like sometimes an old plug will fire in free air but they won't under compression??
 
Try the new plug. Buddy of mine gave me his 028 to get going, it was doing exactly what your's is. Tried everything, new plug, away it went. First pull.

Seems like sometimes an old plug will fire in free air but they won't under compression??


That's exactly how plugs act. that is also why good quality spark plug testers such as those used in the aviation industry check for spark with the plug under a compressed air load. It is amazing how many plugs throw a nice spark shower until you start bringing the compression up.

Thus, I always say, DO WHAT IS CHEAP AND EASY FIRST! Since a spark plug is two bucks and pulling carbs and flywheels is at least time intensive if not costly. Just try the plug. I like to "switch" plugs with a known running saw.
 
How wet is the plug? Maybe its flooding?

It's kinda hard to tell. I started out by priming it since I rebuilt the carb and fuel lines. Everything was empty so I squirted a small amount of mix into the carb. Usually they'll run until the fuel runs out but this time it didn't even pop once. I pulled on the rope several times more then checked the plug, it was wet. I then checked the compression and it was around 150 more or less. I'm going to check the condenser since I have it apart but I'll swap plugs with a known good one. I did go in once and lower the inlet lever on the carb just in case it was flooding with no results other than a wet plug again. I have several chainsaws that start and run well, I guess I could just put that plug in one of them and see if it still starts.
 
This might me a long shot, but I have seen the terminal at the end of the plug wire arc and not make contact with the conductor in the wire when the wire is attached to the plug in the normal operating position. However, when the plug wire is bent differently as when testing the plug for fire, it will make contact and show spark.

Pull the sparkplug boot off the end of the plug wire, and make sure the little hooked end of the terminal is poked solidly into the wire. The conductor has been known to break off in that spot as well causing the same no spark problem.

Hope this helps.

Bob
 
This might me a long shot, but I have seen the terminal at the end of the plug wire arc and not make contact with the conductor in the wire when the wire is attached to the plug in the normal operating position. However, when the plug wire is bent differently as when testing the plug for fire, it will make contact and show spark.

Pull the sparkplug boot off the end of the plug wire, and make sure the little hooked end of the terminal is poked solidly into the wire. The conductor has been known to break off in that spot as well causing the same no spark problem.

Hope this helps.

Bob

I'll try that. Thanks for jogging my memory, Bob, I had an 011AVT that did the same thing a few years ago. It about drove me nuts trying to figure it out when one of the locals told me about the plug wire.
 
That's exactly how plugs act. that is also why good quality spark plug testers such as those used in the aviation industry check for spark with the plug under a compressed air load. It is amazing how many plugs throw a nice spark shower until you start bringing the compression up.

Thus, I always say, DO WHAT IS CHEAP AND EASY FIRST! Since a spark plug is two bucks and pulling carbs and flywheels is at least time intensive if not costly. Just try the plug. I like to "switch" plugs with a known running saw.

I didn't change the plug but I did change the saw. I put the plug that was in the 041 in a saw that I knew started easily, a Makita that I recently went through. The Makita still started just fine so I think that rules out the plug. The plug wire seemed to be fine also, although I may look at it some more. I wish I still had my old analog ohm meter, those are good for checking condensers, you can watch the hand flash up and back, digitals aren't quite that way.
 
By the way, how do you go about adjusting the points on this saw? The flywheel covers them up and there's no window in the flywheel to work with. When the flywheel's off you don't have a cam to operate the points....

I'll try a new plug but I don't think it'll be that easy.

041's have windows in the flywheel to adjust the points. Go buy an electric chip and replace the points.
 
I didn't change the plug but I did change the saw. I put the plug that was in the 041 in a saw that I knew started easily, a Makita that I recently went through. The Makita still started just fine so I think that rules out the plug. The plug wire seemed to be fine also, although I may look at it some more. I wish I still had my old analog ohm meter, those are good for checking condensers, you can watch the hand flash up and back, digitals aren't quite that way.

Put the plug from the Kita in the 041 and see if it runs.
 
I have the thing torn down right now. I hate to put it back together to try another plug since I think mine is good and it worked in another saw. Also, they sent me the wrong puller so if I need to change the points to chip I'll have to go back to my friendly Stihl dealer to have the flywheel pulled again. I'll probably buy a chip+change out the spark plug wire before I put the flywheel back on.
 
I had a 2 man mall do that,never figured it out.I always kinda thought it was the crank seals but never tryed to get them. I put it back together and my buddy bought it and hung it up in his shop. Im not really into 2 man saws, they take up alot of room in my little garage.
 

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