TonyRumore
ArboristSite Guru
I have another crank, but I thought I would attempt a Tig fix on this one before tossing it in the trash. I thought it came out pretty good for a first-try.
![CrankRepair1.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/fd8/fd80ff0acbe3213ed06cdfd8e43d0e7d.jpg)
![CrankRepair2.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/d7e/d7e437b13fd3225378548e170ded2f19.jpg)
![CrankRepair3.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/a51/a51a3f4fed10bb27474b5eecff03e63c.jpg)
Im thinking start to finish 4 hrs if he stayed busy. If I was quoting it I wouldn't go less than 6, I am guessing this is your first time repairing a crank and not you first time tiging
I Tig weld little gun parts, all day, every day......
I have another crank, but I thought I would attempt a Tig fix on this one before tossing it in the trash. I thought it came out pretty good for a first-try.
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The tungsten electrode is 3/32" 2% Thoriated, Anchor brand. I don't recall the spec on the rod, but it is
oil quench hardening rod. I don't quench it though....it will make it too hard, brittle and will break easily. When allowed to naturally air cool, it ends up a perfect hardness/toughness for firearms fire control parts, ie, hammers, triggers, sears, etc. It will hold a sear edge for thousands of rounds without wearing or chipping.
Tony
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