Well picked up this old beast (Stihl 044) the other day. Dude said it needed a rebuild and thought it had been straight gassed while lend out. I took the jug off and and the piston is DUN done. Looks like all the bearings and everything are covered in oil. Kind of new to saws not wrenches or engines but wrenching on saws. There is no radial play in the bearings and it seems to roll over nicely. I'm thinking slap a new piston and cylinder on her and see how she cuts. What you guys think?
044 burned jug and piston.
- Thread starter Brewdawg
- Start date
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You may be able to clean up the transfer on the old cylinder and get by with just a new meteor piston and rings. If you end up buying a new cylinder, I'd be interested in purchasing your old one
Pics? There will be identifying marks on the top left corner or on the transfer tunnels
Absolutely no numbers or markings on it anywhere.
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That would be an AM cylinder. I'd measure the wrist pin, either 10 or 12mm and find the appropriate new or used oem cylinder for it
kenton.a.frank
ArboristSite Guru
Pressure test it or inspect the carb settings before firing it up. Need to know why it torched the last two top ends.
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motorman1
ArboristSite Operative
Jugs are the same. The 10 vs 12mm is the diameter of the wrist pin.
kenton.a.frank
ArboristSite Guru
The piston being smaller diameter makes it lighter to go up and down. Benefit #1. The 10mm usually have a slant fin and better port timing factory. Benefit #2.
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The jugs aren't the same. You can run a 10mm cylinder on a 12mm saw, but not the other way around. The transfers are closer to the intake on a 12 mm cylinder and will snag the ring ends on a 10 mm piston.
The early 12 mm cylinders were slant fin also.
Timberjack zack
ArboristSite Operative
Jv
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The piston its self is the same diameter, its the piston pin that is either 10 mm or 12 mm, just clearing this up.
kenton.a.frank
ArboristSite Guru
kenton.a.frank
ArboristSite Guru
I meant the pin and connecting rod having less metal. My bad should have been clearer.
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drf255
BAD CAD
I’ve got a good oem jug and piston for sale in the TP.
Also have a NOS 10mm top end kit (P&C), but that one is gonna cost a bit more.
That jug sure looks AM. Make sure you vac test whatever you finish with to make sure it doesn’t eat another P&C.
Also have a NOS 10mm top end kit (P&C), but that one is gonna cost a bit more.
That jug sure looks AM. Make sure you vac test whatever you finish with to make sure it doesn’t eat another P&C.
drf255
BAD CAD
Tell me more! In a pm.
