044 hybrid lacks balls in the cut

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Make sure you're using "electrical solder" and not welding solder. You wanna start with solder diameter no greater than .020 and "twist" it if needed. If the solder is over .040 it just ain't gonna "squish" down enough to be accurate.
Also have you tried the same bar and chain on another saw ?
Some times an overly aggressive raker height will bog ANY saw. I've had plenty of saws come in that "won't run- weak on power" only to find the sharpener was a bit to anxious.
I will try another bar and chain, will drop it from 25” to 20”
 
1 3/4 turns is a bit much. Is the tuning consistent at that or does it lose it over time, does the saw run held upside down, sideways etc.?

Can you describe how you perform the vac and pressure test? What I mean is do you have the saw as fully assembled as possible - piece of rubber behind the carb, impulse line connected but blocked with a golf tee? I have been tricked by doing a partial test of a 460, this way you are testing everything - intake boot, impulse line etc. Plug the decomp to take that out of the equation.

Try a shorter bar and chain and see if that helps? Try a new chain. 25' is quite long for this saw.

There could be something sticking in the carb, have you cleaned it totally?

Try removing the fuel filter (temporarily). This can highlight fuel flow problems. check fuel tank breather. what happens if you cut with the saw held sideways and the fuel cap off?
Yeah perhaps the low jet is bogging the saw, I will try leaning it out.
I’ll try it sideways upsidown and see what it does.
Pressure vac test is done with carb adaptor to Mity vac, exhaust blocked, held 10psi under pressure and vaccuum.
Decomp is plugged
I will try a shorter bar and chain, I can remove the fuel filter but it is new. When I remove the carb it squirts a fair bit of fuel at you.
 
Yeah perhaps the low jet is bogging the saw, I will try leaning it out.
I’ll try it sideways upsidown and see what it does.
Pressure vac test is done with carb adaptor to Mity vac, exhaust blocked, held 10psi under pressure and vaccuum.
Decomp is plugged
I will try a shorter bar and chain, I can remove the fuel filter but it is new. When I remove the carb it squirts a fair bit of fuel at you.
Try sending the air through the spark plug hole. You can remove the ceramic middle from the spark plug to make an adapter for the bungs that come with your mityvac. Block the impulse line with a golf tee and block behind the carb with rubber inner tube and put the carb on. Then pump it up to 10psi and dunk in water. This will 100% prove to you that there is no air leak.
 
Try sending the air through the spark plug hole. You can remove the ceramic middle from the spark plug to make an adapter for the bungs that come with your mityvac. Block the impulse line with a golf tee and block behind the carb with rubber inner tube and put the carb on. Then pump it up to 10psi and dunk in water. This will 100% prove to you that there is no air leak.
For ease could I just not do as I already do and put it under water?
 
How were you blocking the impulse line? By carb adapter do you mean the intake boot? What I am trying to say is that when pressure testing I try to get a saw as fully assembled and as close to running conditions as possible. If not its easy to miss a leak. The best test is to test everything from exhaust port to behind the carb, plugging decomp, end of impulse hose and spark plug hole (one of those takes the mityvac and air).

But yes nothing wrong with water testing as it is as a first step.
 
Only marking I can see without pulling the jug
This is not encouraging. 1123 is the series number for the 025 / MS 250 series of saws.

For an OEM Stihl jug you should see "Mahle" (the cylinder manufacturer), 1128 (model series), and the Stihl "S" trademark. Get out a flashlight and inspection mirror and have another go at it.
 
This is not encouraging. 1123 is the series number for the 025 / MS 250 series of saws.

For an OEM Stihl jug you should see "Mahle" (the cylinder manufacturer), 1128 (model series), and the Stihl "S" trademark. Get out a flashlight and inspection mirror and have another go at it.
I think its just a shadowy 1128.
 
Does it hang rpms when comming down to idle?

If you stab the throttle does it rev quick and clean or fall on its face.

If it were mine id probly get rid of the zama for the larger of the two walbaros. I firget the numbers.

Im running the smaller walbaro wishing i had the bigger carb.

Can you make a vid to share?
 
How were you blocking the impulse line? By carb adapter do you mean the intake boot? What I am trying to say is that when pressure testing I try to get a saw as fully assembled and as close to running conditions as possible. If not its easy to miss a leak. The best test is to test everything from exhaust port to behind the carb, plugging decomp, end of impulse hose and spark plug hole (one of those takes the mityvac and air).

But yes nothing wrong with water testing as it is as a first step.
It’s the Stihl carb adaptor, it swaps with the carb and has a barb that goes down the impulse line.
 
My 044 full wrap is .017-18 and my 440 is .024. Just for reference.
Would 0.035 squish be the cause of the problem. I’ve never played with squish but would 0.01 difference make it a crap saw.
For my interest how do you guys lower the jug, Emry and figure 8’s on a piece of glass?
 
Thanks for all the help guys
I feel it’s time to jot all this down and go cut some wood. I’ll have a go at resetting the carb and 20” bar and chain.
 
Bar length wont affect anything.

The only thing that affects saws is wood size.
 
Hi all
Reset the carb keeping the low jet on the lean side and the saw performs
It was over rich in the cut due to the low jet being wound out too far.
Not sure if anything has changed as a lot does not add up
1 initially after rebuild I had to set the low two turns out to get it to rev up, I am wondering if I had oil in the lower case from the rebuild that was choking it.
2 the carb swap with a 44 should have fixed it imo, still was boggy.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions
 

Latest posts

Back
Top