046 changing to .325 bar and chain
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Yes. All you would need to do is change the sprocket.
Might as well tell us why you want to do that because there will be 43 people beating their heads against the wall calling it a dumb idea.
Might as well tell us why you want to do that because there will be 43 people beating their heads against the wall calling it a dumb idea.
046
Not my saw just sitting in the garage . I have 2 options 18 inch bar and chain or I have a 24 inch dolmar bar . I just wanted to get it together to have ready if needed to use .And did not want to spend much money. Does any know the part number for the sprocket that I would need ?
Not my saw just sitting in the garage . I have 2 options 18 inch bar and chain or I have a 24 inch dolmar bar . I just wanted to get it together to have ready if needed to use .And did not want to spend much money. Does any know the part number for the sprocket that I would need ?
Assuming you already have a rim and drum setup all you need is this:
Bailey's - Oregon Power Mate Rim 325 x 9 Tooth
If you have the old spur sprocket you might as well convert it to this:
Bailey's - Oregon Rim and Drum System for Stihl 044, 046, MS 361, MS 440, MS 441, MS 460
You would still need to buy the first one also.
Bailey's - Oregon Power Mate Rim 325 x 9 Tooth
If you have the old spur sprocket you might as well convert it to this:
Bailey's - Oregon Rim and Drum System for Stihl 044, 046, MS 361, MS 440, MS 441, MS 460
You would still need to buy the first one also.
No problem.
I bought a stihl .325x9 rim when I bought my ms441 and the dealer had it in stock. There is another option for you also.
I bought a stihl .325x9 rim when I bought my ms441 and the dealer had it in stock. There is another option for you also.
.325 is for 50cc saws, not a 460.
MerchBanger
ArboristSite Member
Make that 44.
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
Brad is 100% correct, I wouldn't even consider putting .325 on my 046 or 460, 3/8ths is what it needs.
hehe it's a case of people knocking it without actually trying it, I ran the 18" .325 setup on a 460 mag thinning saw, runs as smoooth as silk and absolutely tears thru any log or tree you put in front of it. The 3/8 chain setup is sturdier and stronger than the .325 stuff if you're getting jammed or if you're twisting and jerking on the bar with bad technique, but a wised-up operator can run the .325 on 70+cc's with never a problem
vegaome
ArboristSite Operative
Hey PGG,
Did you cut with it for a long time or just a couple hours? I might try that myself. What do you think would be a stronger chain, 3/8 by .050 or 325 by .063?
v/r
Mike
Did you cut with it for a long time or just a couple hours? I might try that myself. What do you think would be a stronger chain, 3/8 by .050 or 325 by .063?
v/r
Mike
TommySaw
ArboristSite Guru
more teeth to sharpen:bang:
SawTroll
Information Collector
Not that many more. :smile2:
PGG, yeah you gotta wonder why anyone would run a chain with a thinner kerf, more cutters per foot and a higher pin sprocket. Everyone knows that a wider chain with less cutters is the hot ticket. The extra weight of the bar also saves the physical energy of loading the bar in the cut.
otstir:
You might get into a 'resonance' with the thinner bar under certain cutting conditions, usually a ripping cut. The bar tip will start to vibrate and open up the kerf. Changing the position of the bar will usually stop the resonance. The better alternative (looks like you're already on to it) is to use a modest cutting angle on the chain and a larger pin sprocket. The energy from the individual 'impacts' of the cutters is reduced and the extra speed smooths out the cut.
otstir: You might get into a 'resonance' with the thinner bar under certain cutting conditions, usually a ripping cut. The bar tip will start to vibrate and open up the kerf. Changing the position of the bar will usually stop the resonance. The better alternative (looks like you're already on to it) is to use a modest cutting angle on the chain and a larger pin sprocket. The energy from the individual 'impacts' of the cutters is reduced and the extra speed smooths out the cut.
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You can only get a 9 pin .325 for the standard hub size.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep, it will work fine.
Stay away from the narrow kerf chains and the Tri-Link stamped branded chains.
.325 x 9 x 18" was a zippy smooth setup on the 460, mostly .063 for the saws I use.
Unless it has changed, .325 was recommended for 60cc and smaller saws, narrow kerf for 50cc and smaller.
I have snapped narrow kerf and Tri-Link on 60cc saws, would not want to work a larger saw with those types of chains.
Make sure the oiler is working and keep the chain sharp.
As .325 is recommended for significantly less powerful saws it should be considered more dangerous than using .375 when .325 is being used outside of the recommended limitations. I would recommend that you think carefully about your desire to save some money and using a chain beyond it's recommended limits.
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pops21
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep the smaller knerf will dull quicker.
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just a thought, rather than going to all the trouble and expense of changing it over, it might be worth asking if someone has a used bar and chain combo they'd let go for cheap?
Even with the sprocket, you are still going to have to order an odd link count chain to work on it, I believe?
I'm not going to tell you not to do it, and I get you want to keep it on the cheap, but I think there might be a better way to get the end result you want.
Even with the sprocket, you are still going to have to order an odd link count chain to work on it, I believe?
I'm not going to tell you not to do it, and I get you want to keep it on the cheap, but I think there might be a better way to get the end result you want.
