046 rebuild

[firemn260]

This saw has been sitting under my bench for too long and I think I’m ready to tear into it. I picked it up cheap but it’s in rough shape. It did run but it would start leaning out when it warms up. I ruled out the carb and figured a air leak somewhere. Into hibernation it went.
I have a well used 290 that has served me well in property clearing and firewood duty but I find myself wanting a bit more for bucking the bigger logs. I had a well tuned 660 that was my big wood saw but I got to the point where i couldn’t justify that much saw for what I need and let it go.
Anyway, I plan on doing the bearings, seals, piston, rings and rubber. I’m going to borrow a case splitter but using it’s measurements I’m going to fab my own while I’m at it.
My question is about parts. What parts are worth paying a bit more for genuine stihl stuff and what is likely the same as Chinese knock off? I havnt heard much bad about hyway pistons but I won’t cheap out on areas where stihl parts may be top quality. The horsepower junkie in me wants a hot rod saw with porting and all but realistically the stock power is plenty.

 

[TRTermite]

Most porters will prefer a stock cylinder and are more than content with a meteor piston and caber rings. They have chimed in on many posts asking this same question. Bearings are proprietary on the clutch side, I will be the devils advocate and ask "Why split the case if you find the bearings usable"? You should do a vac and press test before tear down for peace of mind.
Check out other threads for Base (Cylinder) gasket delete and muffler mods to perk up your saw. Most are pleased with the results and costs. Carb will need to be tuned to the BGD and Muff Mod. Spark arrestor screen issues depend on where you use your saw so don't let the little things bite you in the butt.

 

[TRTermite]

Congratulations on your first post/message. Have you been Lurking in the shadows all of these years?

 

[Mad Professor]

I'd stick with OEM internals and seals/rubber parts that seal. Exception Meteor piston and quality replacement crank bearing. Also OEM manufacturer carb kit.

 

[firemn260]

Your right I’ve been a non contributing slug on here for quite a while. I have picked up a lot of great info though.
The reason I want to split the case really is because I’ve just never done a chainsaw before. I’ve been around two stroke engines along time and done a few top ends but have yet to get into the crank case of one. I realize some may think it’s not a good idea to do it just for the sake of doing it but that’s how we learn right? I would also like knowing everything will be fresh top and bottom.
I have always modded all my saws mufflers and tuned the carbs but the base gasket delete sounds interesting.

I’ve been using saws for both forced entry and venting in the fire department and also tree work as a side business for a long time. I do not consider myself an expert by any means but I guess I may have some useful input to add to the forum. I will try and get more active.
Thanks for your responses.

 

[link]

This saw has been sitting under my bench for too long and I think I’m ready to tear into it. I picked it up cheap but it’s in rough shape. It did run but it would start leaning out when it warms up. I ruled out the carb and figured a air leak somewhere. Into hibernation it went.
I have a well used 290 that has served me well in property clearing and firewood duty but I find myself wanting a bit more for bucking the bigger logs. I had a well tuned 660 that was my big wood saw but I got to the point where i couldn’t justify that much saw for what I need and let it go.
Anyway, I plan on doing the bearings, seals, piston, rings and rubber. I’m going to borrow a case splitter but using it’s measurements I’m going to fab my own while I’m at it.
My question is about parts. What parts are worth paying a bit more for genuine stihl stuff and what is likely the same as Chinese knock off? I havnt heard much bad about hyway pistons but I won’t cheap out on areas where stihl parts may be top quality. The horsepower junkie in me wants a hot rod saw with porting and all but realistically the stock power is plenty. View attachment 1017741

Nothing wrong with the Hyway pistons, rings or cylinders, but the porting are geared deliberately towards a broad mid range performance and might have more of that and slightly less of the top rpm exclusive power.
I think if you have an OEM Stihl 046 to begin with you have nothing to worry about.
The parts I avoid or have problems with in my builds that are not OEM are things like; clutch bell I use Oregon, clutch springs I use OEM (metal quality), Bar studs I use OEM (metal quality), chain adjuster (metal quality)... The cylinder and crankshaft I use Taiwan made (thats basically Hyway or closely related). Rubber parts are usually OK, basically the same rubber as OEM. Plastic parts are usually OK. Never had any problems with the carburetors or ignition.
On this build I have used a lot of OEM parts; OEM crankcase complete with bearings and studs, starter cover, clutch/sprocket cover, all screws and nuts etc... Taiwan New West (Hyway) 54mm / 82,5ccm cylinder/piston, Taiwan crankshaft (New West). Self modified and enhanced high output oilpump... Im usually not happy with the aftermarket oil pumps but OEM oil pumps I consider too expensive and I prefer to try and make them better.
The thing is that with old Sthil saws lots of OEM parts are surprisingly affordable, only some are unrealistically expensive. So if you make a serch for "Stihl 046 (or) Stil MS460 - parts diagram", you will get OEM parts and prices.

 

[firemn260]

Just a update, I opened this thing up and it was ugly. The inside of the crank case has some decent corrosion and the jug has some worn spots in the platting.
My goal in rebuilding this saw was to retain as much of the oem stuff on it as I could salvage but it’s not looking good. I’m tempted to roll with the jug because the spot is below the port but the case seems to be pitted about half way through.

 

[maulhead]

This saw has been sitting under my bench for too long and I think I’m ready to tear into it. I picked it up cheap but it’s in rough shape. It did run but it would start leaning out when it warms up. I ruled out the carb and figured a air leak somewhere. Into hibernation it went.
I have a well used 290 that has served me well in property clearing and firewood duty but I find myself wanting a bit more for bucking the bigger logs. I had a well tuned 660 that was my big wood saw but I got to the point where i couldn’t justify that much saw for what I need and let it go.
Anyway, I plan on doing the bearings, seals, piston, rings and rubber. I’m going to borrow a case splitter but using it’s measurements I’m going to fab my own while I’m at it.
My question is about parts. What parts are worth paying a bit more for genuine stihl stuff and what is likely the same as Chinese knock off? I havnt heard much bad about hyway pistons but I won’t cheap out on areas where stihl parts may be top quality. The horsepower junkie in me wants a hot rod saw with porting and all but realistically the stock power is plenty. View attachment 1017741

Unless it's the angle of the picture, it looks like it has a 044 gas tank on it. Not a 046 gas tank.

 

[John Lyngdal]

I don't think the cylinder looks that bad. The marks you see might just be aluminum deposits. A little acid and some scrubbing and it become totally serviceable. Most of the time I've seen the Nikasil plating worn through was above the ports where the power down stroke begins. What does the piston look like? On my Stihl rebuilds I generally use Meteor pistons and Caber rings, there's no flies on them. Stihl cylinders might be a bit better that the Meteor offerings, but for most applications the cost/performance nod would go to Meteor. A mentioned earlier, some Chinesium parts are perfectly serviceable, Timken or OEM bearings would be my choice if they need to be replaced. I've used Chinese crank seals without issues, but I think the OEM are superior.

Have fun with y our rebuild project and a Stihl 046 is worthy of your efforts.