064

[simonUK]

064s are noted for jerking the handle out of your hand when trying to start them. I rebuilt one for my brother in law and he is afraid his life of starting it now but won't fork out for an Elastostart. You have to pull them like you mean it. Is it running normally other once you get it started?

Thats true still have bruise marks from starting some saws. I still have an inkling that its the ignition. Could be worth getting a one of the bay see what its like.

 

[JDNicol]

Dont you just! The coil has no serial numbers on it, but the flywheel carries1122 400 1204 part no.
The key doesnt stick out of the crankshaft more than a mil. so if the internal taper on the flywheel is too large and the keyway worn then it can slip out and timing is changed.
This fault is intermitent.It can run fine.Alternatively ignition snap can be heard and the pull cord snatched. This looks to me to be variable timing.

Fortunately i bought the saw as a project for me and my lad to do. I have an 046 which sorts my bigger jobs, so theres no burning need to get the saw running. Its just perplexing.

ATB.Andy.

For a new OEM flywheel you would probably be looking at £50 +tax. For your current flywheel you want the universal ignition module (0000 400 1300).
For reference i have read on here that the 1122 400 1314 from the 066 with polymer flywheel and 046 will work also.

 

[landyboy]

064s are noted for jerking the handle out of your hand when trying to start them. I rebuilt one for my brother in law and he is afraid his life of starting it now but won't fork out for an Elastostart. You have to pull them like you mean it. Is it running normally other once you get it started?

Yeah runs fine sometimes.

 

[landyboy]

Thats true still have bruise marks from starting some saws. I still have an inkling that its the ignition. Could be worth getting a one of the bay see what its like.

I`m keeping my eye on the bay but no compatible flywheels as yet.Irecon you`re right. I`m on the cusp of it at the moment. Everything else is looking good. Just this ignition problem and it should be a good saw.

 

[landyboy]

For a new OEM flywheel you would probably be looking at £50 +tax. For your current flywheel you want the universal ignition module (0000 400 1300).
For reference i have read on here that the 1122 400 1314 from the 066 with polymer flywheel and 046 will work also.

Cheers. I`ll keep an eye out for those part numbers. I`d sooner look out for used. I was guessing 60 quid or so for new.

 

[maico490]

Yeah runs fine sometimes.

What are the symptoms the rest of the time?

 

[JDNicol]

Another suggestion would be to try pulling the rope with the master control lever set to off. Just to rule out any other factors apart from timing.

I found a link to corroborate the numbers i gave you;
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/16419.htm#post193451

 

[landyboy]

What are the symptoms the rest of the time?

Very lumpy pull.Ignition snap, and the handle ripped from my hands. Its definately firing, as theres smoke, but out of timing.
When it starts its hard but the pull is consistent and it fires as it should.

The difference between the two states is very noticable and it changes one to the other frequently.

 

[landyboy]

Another suggestion would be to try pulling the rope with the master control lever set to off. Just to rule out any other factors apart from timing.

I found a link to corroborate the numbers i gave you;
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/16419.htm#post193451

Good idea, i`ll try that.

Hey, if the 046 flywheel is compatible i`ll whip mine off and try it.Cheers for that.

 

[maico490]

Another suggestion would be to try pulling the rope with the master control lever set to off. Just to rule out any other factors apart from timing.

Good idea. I remember a thread from a while ago where the main bearings were shot allowing the balls to bunch up in the race and cause the saw to almost lock up intermittently. Hopefully it won't be that bad but unfortunately a lot of ebay saws have been through a few hands before they end up there. Some are an easy fix others a bit more tricky.

 

[landyboy]

Good idea. I remember a thread from a while ago where the main bearings were shot allowing the balls to bunch up in the race and cause the saw to almost lock up intermittently. Hopefully it won't be that bad but unfortunately a lot of ebay saws have been through a few hands before they end up there. Some are an easy fix others a bit more tricky.

That would be bad news, but i`ve replaced mains before on a saw.They appear smooth.

 

[wyk]

Here's an 064 taking care of some leaning Alder. I hate leaning Alders...

YouTube - ‪Sawrs‬‏

Took two tries to fire her up. Also a mac 125 on the second part and an echo. At 1.27 I am back at it after checking how the cuts match on the other side and poppin out the wedge(it's all surrounded by black berry brambles). I used a humbolt and a bore cut to drop it accross the creek. Alders like to dance, so I ran off the moment I knew she was going. I got my new chaps and helmet in now, so I will be looking all goofy again in vids from here on out. Camera is at a bit of an angle, but you get the gist. That alder had maybe a 30* lean. I only got within an inch and a half to the bore when it decided to go. I like to do the back cut below the bore so the saw doesn't get stuck if she goes early. I honestly think that time it woulda grabbed the saw if I had done one of those angled downwards back cuts I see some guys teach here and abroad. Directly in front of the alder is about a 4' drop onto a creek bed.

Speaking of which, you UK guys, I was gonna spend a month or so in Ireland and the UK and was looking at getting myself NPCT certified with a chainsaw. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Feel free to PM me.

Cheers

 

[landyboy]

Good skills with the leaners. Nice vid.

No idea about NPTC. Have a look on here though:

Arbtalk.co.uk | Discussion Forum for Arborists

Very knowledgeable folk on here could point you in the right direction.