066 clone wont run after carb replacement

[lloyyd]

So I bought a Neotec 066 a while back and it's given me fits. It would never start consistently so I finally just replaced the carb with another cheapo non Stihl carb. This one starts easily but refuses to stay running. Pops on 1 pull on full choke, then starts up on 3-4 pulls at fast idle, runs a couple seconds and dies. If I try to give it gas it revs for a couple seconds, still dies. I've tried L and H at 1/4 turn out, 2.5 turns out and everything in between.

More info:
It probably has 1.5 hrs run time.
I deleted the base gasket as soon as I got it, piston looks perfect.
When it would start with the old carb it ran great and idled perfectly.

Any suggestions where to go from here would be appreciated.

 

[lloyyd]

Quick video of what it's doing.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

With Chinese clone carbs, this is what you can expect. Poor metering and delivery and inconsistency across the board.

Essentially though, the situation you have is a lean low speed setting (you never got to full throttle so can’t comment on that). This could be caused by a lack of fuel, or too much air.

 

[lloyyd]

With Chinese clone carbs, this is what you can expect. Poor metering and delivery and inconsistency across the board.

Essentially though, the situation you have is a lean low speed setting (you never got to full throttle so can’t comment on that). This could be caused by a lack of fuel, or too much air.

Thank you, I'll try to richen it up more. I'm willing to get an OEM Stihl carb if it would clear these issues up, may just bite the bullet and do that. I'm aware of the Chinese saw shortcomings.

I have a 562xp but some big trees fell on my parents land and I needed something bigger. I don't use it much so I don't wanna fight with it when I do need it.

 

[GusGus2020]

Have you done a vac/pressure test? I have lost a lot of faith in the aftermarket carbs, too - it seems like none of them that end up on my doorstep actually function well…

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thank you, I'll try to richen it up more. I'm willing to get an OEM Stihl carb if it would clear these issues up, may just bite the bullet and do that. I'm aware of the Chinese saw shortcomings.

I have a 562xp but some big trees fell on my parents land and I needed something bigger. I don't use it much so I don't wanna fight with it when I do need it.

All good, no judgement my end with whatever you choose to run, clone or oem. All I care about is you getting it running and having fun.

Try opening the L screw (you may need to compensate in the drop of RPM’s by screwing in the idle screw to pick them back up) and go from there.

 

[lloyyd]

Have you done a vac/pressure test? I have lost a lot of faith in the aftermarket carbs, too - it seems like none of them that end up on my doorstep actually function well…

I haven't, that's not something I've ever done and don't have the tools. Might be something I need to get.

 

[lloyyd]

All good, no judgement my end with whatever you choose to run, clone or oem. All I care about is you getting it running and having fun.

Try opening the L screw (you may need to compensate in the drop of RPM’s by screwing in the idle screw to pick them back up) and go from there.

Will do, thanks again.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I haven't, that's not something I've ever done and don't have the tools. Might be something I need to get.

2 strokes are completely reliant on a fully sealed crankcase for correct metering of fuel and air. Minor leaks above the upper transfers doesn’t have much affect to combustion, below them and you can burn your engine up in short order. If you plan on getting involved in any repair, 2 stroke or 4, one of the most useful tools in your tool box will be a p&v tester. Just a few of the most common uses I use mine for are:

P&v test
Fuel lines
Fuel filters
Impulse lines
Oil lines
Duck bill valves
Carb tests - needles, gaskets, purge bulbs
Of course other seals and gaskets
O-rings

 

[GusGus2020]

What sealant did you use for the bgd?

 

[lloyyd]

What sealant did you use for the bgd?

Permatex Motoseal

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Down and dirty leak test, spray non-cloreanated brake cleaner around the clutch and flywheel, if it kills the saw at idle = you definitely have a leak in a seal. It can be sprayed around your cylinder base as well.
I honestly haven't had a terrible time with aftermarket carburetors, one for a stihl too handle was no good but other wise fairly solid runners.

 

[ZeroJunk]

It seems to be a carb issue. Try another , aftermarket or whatever, before you reinvent the wheel.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Chinese junk, What do you expect?

 

[lloyyd]

Chinese junk, What do you expect?

Very helpful, thank you.

 

[TBurt2168]

In a pinch I’ve put a carb in a glass of fuel and hooked a long piece of fuel line to it a blew in it to see where the air was leaking out top plate or needle

 

[NSEric]

I'd check the impluse and fuel lines.
If the impluse line is leaking a bit it wont get enough fuel to run right or it will be inconsistent as it seals up from time to time.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

The impulse line would be my first guess, but its definitely starving for fuel.

 

[lloyyd]

I'd check the impluse and fuel lines.
If the impluse line is leaking a bit it wont get enough fuel to run right or it will be inconsistent as it seals up from time to time.

I looked it over as best I could without removing the gas tank, it looks new, as it should, it basically is. I'm gonna tackle it again tomorrow, didn't feel like it today after cutting in the heat.

 

[SteveSr]

Permatex Motoseal

This could be your leak. Motoseal is not rated for gap filling and is non-hardening. Found that out the hard way... once! You are better off with Dirko or other high temp RTV sealer like Yamabond that is designed for engine cases.