That's why I said "once you get a chain on it".The chain is off the saw
That's why I said "once you get a chain on it".The chain is off the saw
The next step is still raising the throttle and setting low jet properly. A vent usually takes a while for it to act up and will scream at a uncontrollable high rev and then cough out unless you open the gas cap. It's unmistakable. Your revs are too low not too high.
Do you think that running it and testing it a lot in this condition has hurt the saw? (He is asking). Really can't thank y'all enough.
Surely the tank vent can be diagnosed before replacing it on a whim.
After 1.45 of running it like that, remove the fuel cap. Is the tank in vacuum?
Start the saw and lay it on its side, crack the tank cap. See if it runs better.
If not in vaccum or no change running on its side w/ tank cracked I'd rule out the breather.
I think the idle is set too low, the low jet isnt set right, or the compression is too low to idle.
What happens when if he just holds the throttle at a steady RPM?
I would:
Turn the idle screw in 1 full turn and see what happens. If nothing, turn it in 1 more turn.... can turn it in with the saw running while working the throttle to see if it brings idle up enough to idle by itself.
If that doesnt work. I'd leave the idle screw pinned and back out the low speed half a turn and note the change before deciding on what to do with the carb settings or where to go from there.
But lets back up a sec here... currently, where are the low and high needles set to from seated? Thats a huge indicator on where to go with the carb also, and tells if the carb settings are causing this issue in the first place.
The problem I see with running the saw without a chain is you cannot accurately tell where the Low speed and Idle is set. At minimum take the side cover off to see the clutch and use the brake to get the drum to stop spinning.
The saw shop's order note does not mention doing a vacuum test on the tank to check the tank vent. Also they didn't say if the saw passed the pressure/vacuum test, but I am guessing it did.Hi All --
It has been a long time since we posted. Here is an update.
We never did get it to work right, so we finally wound up taking it to a local logging supply store to be diagnosed. Here is what their repairman found and did (I am cutting and pasting off of the receipt, sorry about all the Caps):
CUSTOMER INSTALLED NEW PISTON/CYLINDER AND CARB PLEASE CHECK OPS SAID ITS LEANING OUT TOP END
Order Note: SEALED IMPULSE HOSE , MANIFOLD TUBE, TORQUED CYLINDER, VAC-PRESS TESTED, CARB & CYLINDER CHINESE KNOCK OFF PARTS , MADE RUN NO WARRANTY.
So that's what he did (without telling us, unfortunately). He also said he adjusted the carb. We just wanted it diagnosed. The cylinder hadn't been torqued down all the way (because we didn't have a torque wrench). They were adamant about Chinese parts, but we think the parts are OK. They did do the vacuum-pressure test.
The problem is: my son found that it's worse now than when we gave it to them. It runs for less time. It barely runs. I can't think of anything that could have happened after we picked it up, except it was in the trunk of my car and not secured, so it moved a little, not a lot.
We're kinda at a loss. Does anyone have any ideas? Could we create a Christmas miracle for my kid? He's down about it.
As always, thank you all very much for your help. We look forward to your insights.
Sometimes you have to do things in order to diagnose and there should be a charge but he should have told you exactly what he found wrong. Vac/pressure test first and then tell you there are leaks and cost to repair. That being said, from earlier videos, I didn't see anything that would lead me to believe what he did would correct the problem.
I've used a number of Chinese carbs with no problems but it could still be bad. Tell your son not to be down about it. He's done a lot of good work. We all get that one saw that doesn't behave. Sleep on it and keep trying. I've had some elusive problems with cars and actually dreamed of the solution - and fixed it the next day. Since IMO, the only thing the guy did that would make a change is adjust the carb, I'd see how far the mixture screws are out and reset to where you had them. If that improves it, I would think there may be a carb problem.
The saw shop's order note does not mention doing a vacuum test on the tank to check the tank vent. Also they didn't say if the saw passed the pressure/vacuum test, but I am guessing it did.
As many have already suggested, a quick test is to loosen the gas cap while on it's side so the gas doesn't spill out. Another thing you can check is that the fuel filter is sitting on the bottom of the tank and not sucking air.
Just some ideas.
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