100% Newbie Question

[tpyke]

I just got my saw. It came with this bar:

and this chain:

I want to get a couple spare chains. Now what I would like to know is whether or not I absolutely need to get a Husky chain. I see Oregon's for sale everywhere, but they do not have the same part number. Which numbers do I need to look at when purchasing a chain? My bar is 15", do I need a 16" chain? What are some of the best chains out there right now? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

 

[woodfarmer]

husky

what is the make and model of saw?

 

[sugarbush]

I just got my saw. It came with this bar:

and this chain:

I want to get a couple spare chains. Now what I would like to know is whether or not I absolutely need to get a Husky chain. I see Oregon's for sale everywhere, but they do not have the same part number. Which numbers do I need to look at when purchasing a chain? My bar is 15", do I need a 16" chain? What are some of the best chains out there right now? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

yOU NEED A .325- .050, 64 DRIVERS.

 

[tpyke]

what is the make and model of saw?

Husky 345

 

[tpyke]

yOU NEED A .325- .050, 64 DRIVERS.

Any make?

 

[sugarbush]

Any make?

yES, BUT YOU'LL HAVE A CHOICE OF TOOTH TYPE, A SAW SHOP WILL HELP WITH THAT DEPENDING ON YOUR NEED. CLEAN OR DIRTY WOULD.

 

[TimberPig]

As said, you need a chain that has the same pitch (.325"), gauge (0.050") and number of drivers (64). As long as those match, it will fit and work correctly. Beyond that, you can choose your cutter style (chisel, semi chisel), safety/non-safety chain, and other variables that aren't needed in your case. The easiest way is simply to have your dealer set you up with the correct chains. Brand does not matter, so long as those parameters (.325pitch, 0.050 gauge, 64dl are met). You can definitely use Oregon, since that is what you are already using, as Husky and most others besides Stihl sell rebadged Oregon chain and bars. Carlton, Oregon by any name, Stihl, and others will all work so long as they are the correct pitch, gauge and drive link count.

 

[oldsaw]

Any make?

Yep, any make. There are only three things you need to know to know whether the chain will fit. The "pitch" or more or less the length of the links, the "guage" or how wide the driver is, and how many links on the loop which relates to your bar length. My last loops were 3/8"-.063-136 links. 3/8" pitch, .063 guage drivers, and 136 links for a 42" chain.

Not to say there isn't more to know, but that depends on your use and experience. Just starting out, you probably want safety chain which is slower cutting, but has less chance of biting you back (kickback). Later on, a pro-style chain may be the better choice once you have some experience with not only the saw itself, but with sawing in general.

Nice saw, BTW, you done good.

Mark

 

[tpyke]

My last loops were 3/8"-.063-136 links.

Holy crap! I guess that's the chain for the monster in your avatar!

Thanks for the great easy to understand info guys!!

This is the chain I've benn given, and I find it works great! Can anyone tell if it's chisel or semi-chisel, safety or not, and made for dirty or clean wood?

 

[sugarbush]

Holy crap! I guess that's the chain for the monster in your avatar!

Thanks for the great easy to understand info guys!!

This is the chain I've benn given, and I find it works great! Can anyone tell if it's chisel or semi-chisel, safety or not, and made for dirty or clean wood?

Looks like round ground chisel, non safety, for clean wood.

 

[tpyke]

Is there a thread on here explaining (and hopefully showing) the differences between the different chisel grinds, safety and non-safety chains, and a chain that is good for clean wood as compared to a dirty wood chain?

 

[mbopp]

Try the manufacturers websites:

http://www.oregonchain.com/sawch.htm

http://www.sawchain.com/ (for Carlton)

 

[clearance]

Is there a thread on here explaining (and hopefully showing) the differences between the different chisel grinds, safety and non-safety chains, and a chain that is good for clean wood as compared to a dirty wood chain?

Safety chain provides false hope, it is a scam because when the chain gets worn down half way you have to file not only the rakers but the "safety" bump as well. As well the term "safety" lulls people into thinking the saw will not kick, maybe not as bad, but if you know how to use the saw properly, which you should, you will not put yourself in this situation. On this site I really get the idea that most people do not know how to buck safely, I am usually the one to bring this up. Learn how to buck safely, I only use chisel chain on my firewood saw, it cuts good.

 

[tpyke]

hmmm...these "safety" chains are starting to sound like the "safety" blades we had at work for a while on our circular saws...they just added a little tooth in back of the main cutting tooth to prevent kickback of the saw. Everyone got issued a new blade. This one guy's helper was cutting some furring lengthwise... cut it halfway up, moved his hand from the front of the saw and held the furring behind the saw, restarted the saw and it kicked back and cut one of his fingers off! They were able to put the finger back on, but he now delivers pizzas....
The best safety is knowing about the tool your are using!

 

[Gark]

Nice saw you got there.
Ditto what clearance said. The Stihl version of safety chain I (accidentally) got from a dealer with the saw was 3-hump safety link green RM2 stuff. I think the safety humps interfered alot with chip flow. Wouldn't gobble through wood very fast. For comparison, the Stihl RM yellow chain (no safety hump links) does much better, and the more aggressive RS even better. Perhaps the more knowledgeable members here will translate those Stihl numbers to Oregon equivalents.

 

[tpyke]

Final question(?).....

Since my Husky chain is most likely an Oregon, does that mean that the 33LG model listed in their manual is the same chain as my 33LG?

 

[SawTroll]

Get the 95VP !

..... I want to get a couple spare chains. Now what I would like to know is whether or not I absolutely need to get a Husky chain. I see Oregon's for sale everywhere, but they do not have the same part number. ....

The bar you got is a 15" .050 .325 Narrow Kerf (NK) bar.

Any 64DL .050 .325 chain (like the one you got) will work on it, but it is a narrow bar specially made to work with the Oregon 95VP chain, which also are sold as Husky H30 and Jonsered S30.
This NK chain also happen to be the chain that will cut fastest and smoothest of them all on most 45 cc saws, as your Husky 345.

Carlton also makes .325 NK chain (20NK), but they lack the anti-vibe feature that probably contributes to the very smooth cutting of the 95VP.:greenchainsaw:

Edit;
I just noticed that the marking on the box your chain came in is tampered with, so it is not possible to know what you got from the look of the box.
If you want to know, post a picture of the chain itself, showing all markings on it.

 

[tpyke]

Thanks for the advice!! Got two 95VP chains on their way from Bailey's as of now!!

 

[cord arrow]

i run the woodsman pro NK with an arbor pro bar on my small saws.

seems to hold up better than i anticipated in the dirty stuff. had my doubts.......

 

[NovaMan]

I looked on the manufacturers' web sites, but I'm still clueless as to what type of chain does what. Full chisel, semi chisel, square cut, round cut, different pitches and gauges. It's all very confusing to us newbs. :bang:
I don't even know what my chains are, other than one is an RSC3 and the other is a full skip, both 3/8 pitch.

What are the advantages of the different cutters, pitches, and gauges?