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NovaMan said:
I looked on the manufacturers' web sites, but I'm still clueless as to what type of chain does what. Full chisel, semi chisel, square cut, round cut, different pitches and gauges. It's all very confusing to us newbs. :bang:
I don't even know what my chains are, other than one is an RSC3 and the other is a full skip, both 3/8 pitch.

What are the advantages of the different cutters, pitches, and gauges?

A chisel shaped cutter is more efficient at severing and removing chips. It has a square working corner, that digs into the wood, then the top plate lifts it, and the sideplate severs the chip. Chisel chain comes in two different types, round filed or ground, and square filed or ground. Square ground/filed chisel chain is the fastest cutting, but is most vulnerable to damage. It also requires an expensive grinder, or special more expensive files, plus skill and experience to keep sharp. It is best used in clean wood, where the edge will not be damaged by dirt. Round ground/filed chisel chain cuts slightly slower than square ground/filed chisel, but the grinders and round files for sharpening it are much less expensive, and it is much easier to sharpen successfully. It is good for clean to very mildly dirty wood. It is still very easily damaged by dirt in the wood.

Semi chisel has a rounded working corner and is much less susceptible to damage than chisel chain. It cuts slightly slower than chisel chain, but is more durable in dirty wood. It isn't as easily damaged by dirty wood, and lasts longer when cutting in these conditions. It is filed or ground with the same round files or grinders as for round ground/filed chisel.

Chipper has a very rounded cutter. It is even more durable in dirty wood, but is not very common anymore. Also filed/ground with the same grinders as for round chisel and semi-chisel.

Pitch is the distance between 3 drive links divided by 2, or roughly the distance between the drive links. Smaller pitches are lighter, less strong, and have smaller cutters. Larger pitches have bigger cutters, weigh more and are stronger. For small engines, a smaller, lighter, less aggressive pitch is used, to match the loads imposed upon the engine by the chain, to the power output of the engine. The same is true for larger engines, they use larger pitches to more closely match the cutting capabilities of the chain to the power of the engine.

Compliment is simply the spacing of the cutters. Full compliment has one pitch between cutters, semi skip has a cutter, one pitch, cutter, two pitches, then another cutter, then a pitch then another cutter and repeats, and full skip has a cutter two pitches, then a cutter and repeats.

Gauge is simply the width of the drive links. Smaller gauges are slightly lighter, and minutely weaker than larger gauges. The difference is really minor, and doesn't really warrant too much worry, simply match the gauge of chain to the gauge of your bar.

Hopefully this clears a few things up for you.
 
tpyke said:
Sure does, but what and where is a KERF?:confused:

HAHA..Kerf is the term used to define the width of the cut your chain is cutting. The wider your chain, the wider the kerf. The wider the kerf, the more wood you are removing in the cut, and by that using more power of the saw to do it.

That is why smaller saws have NK chain. And why Milliers like NK because they are not turning their lumber into dust.
 
tpyke said:
.... Since my Husky chain is most likely an Oregon, does that mean that the 33LG model listed in their manual is the same chain as my 33LG?
I overlooked that question, but as I said, the box has been tampered with, and it is not possible to know which chain type it contained when you got it.

Are there any numbers or letters stamped on the chain?
...better yet, post some closeup pictures of it.

33LGH probably means 33LG-Husqvarna, and if that is the case it is the same as Oregon 33LG - not the best chain for your bar (or for anything else), but servicable.
The designation 33LGH does not really fit into Huskys usual numbering system for rebadged Oregon chain though, so I am on slightly thin ice here.......:confused:

The 30-series Oregon chains require a smaller file than their other .325 chain, and as far as I know, Oregon is discontinuing them.
 
SawTroll said:
The 30-series Oregon chains require a smaller file than their other .325 chain, and as far as I know, Oregon is discontinuing them.
I knew it!! I started trying to file my chain by hand using a little roller guide and it felt REALLY rough for a chain that cut well...I hope I didn't screw it up!:mad:
I got a Jonsered file kit for .325 chains and it came with 3/16 files. No wonder they discontinued it if you need special files for it!
Pics coming up....
 
OK, so unless I am not looking at the right place, these are the only markings there are on the chain. Same thing over and over on every link.
LINKS.jpg
 
tpyke said:
I knew it!! I started trying to file my chain by hand using a little roller guide and it felt REALLY rough for a chain that cut well...I hope I didn't screw it up!:mad:
I got a Jonsered file kit for .325 chains and it came with 3/16 files. No wonder they discontinued it if you need special files for it!
Pics coming up....

They aren't really special files, they are simply a smaller size. They are still a standard, commonly available file size, they just aren't the same as for other .325" chains.

Worst case scenario, you get the new files in the correct size, and a few file strokes will have it back to the correct shape.
 
OK, so what about angles? What would it be if the file were perpendicular to the plane of the bar? 0 and 0? Would that cut well or not?
 
NovaMan said:
OK, so what about angles? What would it be if the file were perpendicular to the plane of the bar? 0 and 0? Would that cut well or not?
I'm no expert, but I would have to guess that it would be like cutting with the back end of a blade on a knife as compared to the cutting edge...or using a hammer instead of an axe...
 
TimberPig said:
Worst case scenario, you get the new files in the correct size, and a few file strokes will have it back to the correct shape.
I really hope so!
OK, so I went out and got a 3 pack of 4.5 mm files. I based my purchase of these files on this:
38 Super Guard® .325"
Not a Lowkickback
Chain
No Bumper
Tie Straps
Low-vibration Chain
CHISEL®
Kickback End Use
Reducing View
Features
Chain Type Gauge
33LG .050"
34LG .058"
35LG .063"
FILING
 DEPTH-GAUGE  TOP-PLATE
SETTING CUTTING ANGLE
 SIDE-PLATE  TOP-PLATE  FILE-GUIDE
ANGLE FILING ANGLE ANGLE
10°
25°
60°
60°
.025"
HEEL DOWN
TOOLS FOR FILING
Part No. Description
70511 4.5 mm Round File (12-Pack)
31692 4.5 mm Assembled File Guide
31941 .025" Drop-Center Depth-gauge Tool
OR534-18 1/8" Grinding Wheel, 5-3/4" Dia.
OR4125-18 1/8" Grinding Wheel, 4-1/8" Dia.
Chains on this page are intended for use with saws up to 3.8 cu. in.
displacement (62 cc), and bars up to 20 in. length (50 cm).
Better yet, page 42 of this:
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_manual.pdf

Now before I go and file my chain again, can someone please confirm whether or not this should be the correct file? (...maybe I should have asked BEFORE going out and buying them....)
 
That is the correct file for the 33LG. Go ahead and file it.

NovaMan,
Oregon and Stihl both have chain maintenenace guides on their websites, that list all the angles and settings for their chains. Carlton does as well. Simply look those up, and find your chain, file it to those angles and your chian will cut fine.
 
TimberPig said:
NovaMan,
Oregon and Stihl both have chain maintenenace guides on their websites, that list all the angles and settings for their chains. Carlton does as well. Simply look those up, and find your chain, file it to those angles and your chian will cut fine.
Right, but I was wondering more about theory: what happens when you increase or decrease the angles?
 
NovaMan said:
Right, but I was wondering more about theory: what happens when you increase or decrease the angles?


Stihl has a great booklet showing the wrong ways to sharpen a chain and the "cutting" results... of varous problems... I'll see if I can find a pdf copy.
 
Nova Man you can file at different angles but why waste a chain when they already suggest the best and most effecient way of filing it? If you are trying to mill wood, (rip it longways) insted of crosscut there are different angles suggested, but I have ripped many logs with regular chain it is just slow work.:greenchainsaw:
 
NovaMan said:
Right, but I was wondering more about theory: what happens when you increase or decrease the angles?

A steeper top plate angle , or more hook angle will both make the saw cut faster, but also dull faster, particularly if debris is hit.

A shallower top plate angle, and less hook angle will cut slightly slower, but will stay sharper longer, especially if the wood is at all dirty.

Slightly lower rakers may make your saw cut faster, if it has the power to pull it, while slightly higher rakers may increase cutting speed if your saw isn't so strong.

The wood you are cutting will also impact what angles to use. Generally green softwood will allow for more top plate and hook angle, without causing issues with stay sharp than will drier, or harder wood.

For almost all users, with round filed chisel chain, the factory angles are pretty close. If you want to try something else, then go ahead, but your performance likely won't change too much.
 
TimberPig said:
That is the correct file for the 33LG. Go ahead and file it.
Right, and from the pic, there is no doubt that your chain is a 33LG.

The roller guide is not made for the low-profile 33 chain (LG or SL), and I suspect that it will put the file too high on the teeth, even with the correct 4.5 mm file.

It is probably possible to modify the guide to fit by deepening the slots that fit over the chain, but imo not worth the trouble for the use on one single chain, as it will not fit other chain types when this is done.
You would also need to use some "Kentucky windage" regarding the top-plate angle, as the guide indicates 5 degree more angle than recommended for the chain (no big deal, really).

Another option:
Even though it will fit and work on your Narrow Kerf bar, the 33LG is not the correct chain on that bar according to either Oregon or Husky, so I would have taken the chain back to the dealer as a misfit, demanding a 95VP or H30 as replacement.
 
You think it's too late to bring it back, now that I've cut about a full cord with it?
 
Unless it is somehow defective, the fact that you have used it pretty much precludes returning it. Just run that loop til it is worn out, and switch over then.
 

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