162SE scored piston

[MarkEagleUSA]

I removed the muffler on my 162SE to paint it last night and was horrified to see the upper portion of the piston (the part that travels above the exhaust port) has some minor scoring. This is new since it wasn't there a couple of months ago when I got the saw running after a fuel line replacement and carb rebuild.

I just replaced the oil pump and think the seal in the old one went bad as it was leaking oil from behind the clutch. After putting the new pump in I tried to start it and it wouldn't run. Upon throttle up it would spit and sputter but never get to full RPM. Had to really lean it out to get it to run but wasn't comfortable with that (not sure if that's what caused the scoring; I only ran full throttle for about 5 seconds).

Anyway, as I said the scoring is only on the side of the piston that travels above the exhaust port. What should my next step be? Obviously at some point I need to tear it down to check the cylinder. I guess a vac/pressure test is in order?

I also did some searching for a replacement P&C but came up empty. It seems though that parts from a later 61 will fit... is this true? If it needs to be rebuilt I guess I'd like to update the crank to a more current fine-threaded one but don't know where/how to start.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I removed the muffler on my 162SE to paint it last night and was horrified to see the upper portion of the piston (the part that travels above the exhaust port) has some minor scoring. This is new since it wasn't there a couple of months ago when I got the saw running after a fuel line replacement and carb rebuild.

I just replaced the oil pump and think the seal in the old one went bad as it was leaking oil from behind the clutch. After putting the new pump in I tried to start it and it wouldn't run. Upon throttle up it would spit and sputter but never get to full RPM. Had to really lean it out to get it to run but wasn't comfortable with that (not sure if that's what caused the scoring; I only ran full throttle for about 5 seconds).

Anyway, as I said the scoring is only on the side of the piston that travels above the exhaust port. What should my next step be? Obviously at some point I need to tear it down to check the cylinder. I guess a vac/pressure test is in order?

I also did some searching for a replacement P&C but came up empty. It seems though that parts from a later 61 will fit... is this true? If it needs to be rebuilt I guess I'd like to update the crank to a more current fine-threaded one but don't know where/how to start.

Photos of the scoring would help - maybe the P&C are still usable with a little cleanup? I agree to do a vac/pressure test.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Photos of the scoring would help

I didn't take any pics last night but will try to get some when I get home from work later today.

 

[SawTroll]

The 162SE is closed port and the 61 is open port (makes less power) - I don't know about the pistons though.

The most sensible (simplest) replacement top end would be a 266 one. The larger carb of of the later 266SEs and the 266xp would be an asset, but isn't really needed.

A 268xp or 272xp one would make more power, but also mean more parts and work (carb, intake, top cover, in addition to the top end).

 

[KiwiOilBoiler]

If it turns out just to need a piston, The Greek on ebay "dandrikop/DLA" has them in Meteor, same as pre 87 Husky 61.

Adam.

 

[spike60]

Allthough the 162SE wasn't around all that long, the top end lived on til the end of the chassis as it was used on the Jonsered 630 Super. So, it takes a 48MM windowed piston. Not sure if they are available or not, but I'll check when I get to the store later. Complete top ends are NLA from either Husky or Jonny, and the 266 top end is also NLA. There are probably some aftermarket options available too.

If the scoring is light, the jug can be cleaned up and maybe just new rings are all you will need. Unless of course you have the thin rings which are NLA. I know the early 630's used the thin rings, but I'm not sure if they were ever used on the 162.

Probably a good idea to tear that saw down and freshin it up. Whenever I see something like that starting to happen I figure it's best to straighten it out before it toasts itself.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Probably a good idea to tear that saw down and freshin it up. Whenever I see something like that starting to happen I figure it's best to straighten it out before it toasts itself.

Since the saw has a lot of sentimental value to me, that's exactly what I want to do. Even if I never use the saw again, I would like to get it fixed and be operational.

 

[spike60]

Ouch! That piston is still available but lists for $100.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Ouch! That piston is still available but lists for $100.

Ouch! is right! But if it only needs a piston that might be the way to go to keep it original.

I want to take it apart tonight when I get home. Before I do, I'd like to know if a cylinder gasket is still available or is there an option for replacing it? I'd rather not take anything apart unless I know I can get it back together.

As this will be my first attempt at major chainsaw repair, I'm trying to cover all my bases ahead of time.

 

[spike60]

Ouch! is right! But if it only needs a piston that might be the way to go to keep it original.

I want to take it apart tonight when I get home. Before I do, I'd like to know if a cylinder gasket is still available or is there an option for replacing it? I'd rather not take anything apart unless I know I can get it back together.

As this will be my first attempt at major chainsaw repair, I'm trying to cover all my bases ahead of time.

I've got the gaskets in stock. That part is consistent through the life of the chassis on all models in the family.

 

[nmurph]

I've got the gaskets in stock. That part is consistent through the life of the chassis on all models in the family.

I would omit it if I could. You will need to read up on measuring squish and what are acceptable liquid sealants.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I would omit it if I could. You will need to read up on measuring squish and what are acceptable liquid sealants.

Probably a bit outside my comfort zone, especially on this saw. I may just have someone rebuild it for me just in case it needs anything else while it's apart. While I have no intention of ever using it on a regular basis again, I want to be able to pass it on if and when I get me a grandson.

 

[SawTroll]

Probably a bit outside my comfort zone, especially on this saw. I may just have someone rebuild it for me just in case it needs anything else while it's apart. While I have no intention of ever using it on a regular basis again, I want to be able to pass it on if and when I get me a grandson.

That sounds fine - it is an historically important saw model! :msp_biggrin:

 

[rattler362]

Probably a bit outside my comfort zone, especially on this saw. I may just have someone rebuild it for me just in case it needs anything else while it's apart. While I have no intention of ever using it on a regular basis again, I want to be able to pass it on if and when I get me a grandson.

You can fix it not that big a deal. This is a pic of a 162 cylinder.

The fine folk's on here can walk you through it.

 

[watsonr]

Meteor makes a 262 piston in 48mm and there are offerings in the 262 aftermarket cylinder kits out there if you decide to go that route, if that size would fit of course? And there are pistons by various manufacturers for the 61 in that same size out there from site sponsors.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

You can fix it not that big a deal.

The fine folk's on here can walk you through it.

I have no doubt the fine folks here can walk me through it. My problem is not having the proper tools for the most part. Plus, I wouldn't necessarily know if something was wrong just by looking at it. I'm lacking in the 'sperience dept...

 

[SawTroll]

Meteor makes a 262 piston in 48mm and there are offerings in the 262 aftermarket cylinder kits out there if you decide to go that route, if that size would fit of course? And there are pistons by various manufacturers for the 61 in that same size out there from site sponsors.

Surely - but I believe the point is that the 61 piston used up to 1987 or so is exactly the same as the most common (the single ring) 162SE one. The part number is the same (yes, I looked it up).

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Ok, here goes... came home and took some pics of the piston.

Looking back at the intake side. It appears clean and smooth across the way.

Top of the piston on its way up:

A little further along:

Almost at TDC:

At TDC. No more scoring:

I suddenly realized that I had no way to pressure test this thing as I'm lacking any fittings to use with the vac tester or to pressurize the crankcase. So I jumped right in and pulled it apart.

Continued in next post...

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Top of the piston all covered carbon carbon:

Exhaust side of the piston. Not looking very good and that stuff don't rub off:

Intake side... nice and clean:

Cylinder exhaust side. I can feel the score with my fingertip, but a fingernail doesn't catch on anything:

Cylinder intake side:

Finally, the top of the piston quickly cleaned of the carbon buildup. Notice all the pits along the outer edge:

While not terminal, it's not looking too good. At a minimum it needs a piston. I can't be certain if the cylinder is any good or not, but it is 32 years old. I'm thinking the best course of action is to replaced the top end. That just leaves the bottom end. I'd probably sleep better at night if new bearings and seals were in place.

So... assuming the worst, what will a complete rebuild cost me? Again, I don't have all the necessary tools or experience so I think the bottom end is out of my league.

 

[almondgt]

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